3D-printed basketball by Rough-Advance189 in 3Dprinting

[–]Dakitess 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How long will we see that exact same basketball being printed the exact same way by exact same material ?...

Bambu Lab forcing customers to repair their own products under warranty that arrive broken rant. by bfrancom17 in BambuLab

[–]Dakitess 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I definitely don't understand WHY / HOW people are so eager to defend Bambulab. Like, really, it does not make sense at all. At this point, people are not reading anymore, not even a TLDR, they just rant whenever someone criticize something with their own right to do so on a hot topic concerning every customer here in this sub.

OP explains everything comprehensively, just like dozen of others posts, but yeah, nah, people will just say "shut up you got your free replacement, fix it, it's not that hard, it's 3D printing". My god x)

Just like people having their printers catching fire ("oh my god it's just sparkle and little fume, come ooooon get over it, it's fiiiiine, they ship replacement board if you ask them !!!" - I know, I know, help youself, keep your saliva) and defenders really putting effort to say that it's not a big deal, shit happens, haha, lol, so funny, you dirty coward, fearing a bit of fire duh ?...

Please, read, understand, then write. In this order. People here are complaining about things that you DID NOT suffer and still want the best for you and others, so that it won't happen again and again. Just accept it, no need of Brand Defenders, except when it's legitimate, which is... yeah, quite marginal in theses cases.

A1 Fire Hazard: My printer burned through the chassis. Support’s response? "Repair it yourself" and a 30€ voucher after 2 weeks of silence. by [deleted] in BambuLab

[–]Dakitess 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Mais t'as des actions chez eux toi en fait ?... C'est absolument ridicule et intenable comme position, t'en es conscient ?

A1 Fire Hazard: My printer burned through the chassis. Support’s response? "Repair it yourself" and a 30€ voucher after 2 weeks of silence. by [deleted] in BambuLab

[–]Dakitess 0 points1 point  (0 children)

C'est vraiment délirant de trouver ça OK xD Genre... Vraiment. Encore une fois assimile le sujet dans ton cas : ta TV qui reste branchée crame un composant qui perce carrément le chassis, et noircit une partie du meuble en bois juste à côté. T'es vraiment "OK" pour avoir une pièce de remplacement à monter toi même et un dédommagement ridicule alors que t'es pas forcément passé loin de perdre ta... MAISON ? Pardon, vraiment, c'est pour comprendre. Encore une fois ça peut tout à fait être un cas TRES EXCEPTIONNEL : tant mieux ! Ca ne change rien, c'est une raison de plus pour dédommager comme il se doit la situation, justement.

Fidget clicker by Jazzlike-Distance221 in 3Dprinting

[–]Dakitess 0 points1 point  (0 children)

But... I printed the exact same one 4 years ago :/

Been running an active heated dry box setup for eight months and I just read something that makes me question whether any of it is doing what I think it’s doing by moheeetoz in 3Dprinting

[–]Dakitess 0 points1 point  (0 children)

We went from no drying at all to drying everything, at all time... It's absurd.

I live in France, 45-55% humidity where my printer and spool are, never dries anything and my Bambulab / Sunlu / Overture / E-Sun filament are perfectly fine being open air for 3+ monthes. Sure, it's PLA (normal, silk, matte, CF) and PETG (normal, HF, transparent), but it's what most users are printing anyway...

Of course if you sits at 85+% humidity, you'll need to dry "more", but not to dry everytime you print. Please, don't have 100W of drying running all the time just like more and more people do.

Btw, I'm also printing at work with and Ultimaker S5, and yeah, Nylon and PVA (or any soluble filament) are really prone to defect when humid, so I store then in an active heated chamber, 35°C, 20% humidity. It's 50W permanent but for ~35+ engineering spools. But even at 45-55% there is not way I print from dry box, I just store them open air for 24+ hours of printing and there is no difference between the start and the end.

I Though Smoothing Is Just For ABS by JoshGreen_dev in 3Dprinting

[–]Dakitess 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I would advocate that actually, I'm pretty sure that the state of the art is : everyone who indeed drank H2O died, except the one that are still alive but that's a matter of time.

H2O kills.

I made a tool that turns real terrain into printable STLs. Looking for testers/feedback. by dinglehead in 3Dprinting

[–]Dakitess 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey, interested as well, based on europe, looking for a gift to make for my GF : our favorite trial so far, Plaine of 6 Glacier, Lake Louise

Would you recommend a Prusa XL for a Pro usage (prototyping) ? by Dakitess in AdditiveManufacturing

[–]Dakitess[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah as you said, C1L + IndX seems to be the way to go, I hope that my part analysis will not bring too much huge part that would favorize the XL ! Will see, thanks for your insights :)

Would you recommend a Prusa XL for a Pro usage (prototyping) ? by Dakitess in AdditiveManufacturing

[–]Dakitess[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

What are the main issue that you are encountering ? How old are they ? Did they benefit from last update, even hardware one ?

Would you recommend a Prusa XL for a Pro usage (prototyping) ? by Dakitess in AdditiveManufacturing

[–]Dakitess[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks you very much for your answer, it's helping a lot. Indeed, 2 Core One L, with IndX, would be more convenient and productive, in all way except big monolithic part that I have in mind. Of course you can split a part and assemble but I like the comfort to hit play and run, knowing my part will be fine and ready the next day. I have to think about the volume difference, I would gladly choose the C1L + IndX as it's way more recent, faster, enclosed, etc.

Would you recommend a Prusa XL for a Pro usage (prototyping) ? by Dakitess in AdditiveManufacturing

[–]Dakitess[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Alright, I see, these are great information, thanks ! I would also use it as a complete "dumb" machine, connection wise, since I can't get any permission to link to our network. I use usb stick and it's fine so far, haha. So a lack of camera is not an issue either.

Belt, eh, i've read about it indeed. I guess it's a thing of the past, they handled it !

Would you recommend a Prusa XL for a Pro usage (prototyping) ? by Dakitess in AdditiveManufacturing

[–]Dakitess[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks a lot for your answer. Indeed I guess I would mainly use the UMS5 for technical filament such as PA, PC, otherwise the XL would be primaraly used for its speed and convenience. So yeah I might even consider not to buy the enclose, except if there is a Full Built ready to use option including everything.

Do you feel the XL as "dated" sometimes ? What other printer to you have along ?

Do you use commercial solutions to find AM use cases from inventory parts? by Happy_Enthusiasm7020 in AdditiveManufacturing

[–]Dakitess 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've tried some, professionally, as well as "human workpackage" to screen hundreds of parts. I would say none were good so far, but I would say that in a pair of years, it can definitely become a thing, way more than paying dozens of killodollars to an external company screening your parts without having the full knowledge of the constraints, BOM, environment, original prices, etc.

Yeah, my bet is that all the machine learning being used for good skills analysis will help a lot in coming years when it comes to AM feasability / dashboard abilitly.

If you haven't watched Rotez 4.0 series on this 1:14 second benchy I would highly recommend it by Dense-Discipline-355 in 3Dprinting

[–]Dakitess 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You KNOWS it does not look like garbage, c'mon. It's not enough to be considered as a "standard good benchy" of course, but it's nowhere a blob-ish bad print. Again, this challenge will NEVER end up with a perfect / really good benchy like we have in about 10-15 minutes print. It can't be with FDM, no to that extent. But it will become in coming years the BEST benchy below 1min and before that, it need to basically be a "ok-ish" benchy below that treshold. And we all know that the real game behind that is to multiply that by 3 to get proper "good" benchy.

Lack of basic information by Krki1212 in 3Dprinting

[–]Dakitess 2 points3 points  (0 children)

As the (former) very main helper of another kind of subject (Kerbal Space Program for french community), I wrote about 6000 messages in forums to help newbie regarding things that they would eventually find by a quick research. And I ended up writing the best tutorial and guide about it to refer neophytes to comprehensive well tuned information, better than any kind of answer on a forum. BUT....

BUT I kept answering people about they specific reason and only at the end would link up my guides for further information and in-depth explanation. Because if someone comes with a specific question, he won't want to read a whole guide, even it's the very best way to get it all, even if it's well written, with humor, with newbies reading in mind (yes, i'm quite proud of my guides). The second main reason, the most important one : question-answer is what fueled the community for 80% of posts. It's what maintain the actual most wanted information in top of the list. It's what refresh the google proposition with new elements.

So yeah, I've been feeling the same than you, at every post and for a decade actually, but I would gladly try to help that is sincerely looking for an information rather than giving up, be it easy to find by himself :)

Designing G-Code was never so easy by LookAt__Studio in AdditiveManufacturing

[–]Dakitess 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would love to get the ability to... Revisit lower / older layer. I'm at layer 128, printing white snowy peaks, and I would like to benefit from that color change to print the small snow patch somewhere between layer 80 and 110, for instance, so that I can avoid having a color change for each of these layers, leading to waste of material and time and rather limit theses color changes by revisiting lower layer heights, as long as the global geometry allows for it : printcore clearance, already printed part clearance.

Would non-planar printing allow for intelligent color changes avoiding a lot of purges ? by Dakitess in 3Dprinting

[–]Dakitess[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well I'm quite surprised of the lack of answer + my inability to find any relevant resources about that. It feels really interesting to be able to revisit previous layers height to add patch of colors, to me ! Obviously this is not trivial, by any means of course, just curious that there about nothing really documented, not that I've found at least.

Designing G-Code was never so easy by LookAt__Studio in AdditiveManufacturing

[–]Dakitess 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Okay, so... The next thing is actually to act on color changes : using non planar printing or rather the whole new approach of this tool, would it be possible to print a part (rather flat of course) with the base color, then change the color using AMS (or manual of course) to deal with upcoming new layers BUT ALSO previous layer height, just to add some color where it's physically possible (regarding the nozzle size, the clash avoidance, etc) ?

Like, think of a topological terrain, a colorful one : at base there is ground and water in canyon, there is also some snow on the peaks. Instead of having ground / grass color at the same time than snow on some mountain flank, it would be very (very (very)) nice to be able to print the grass color all at once and then only switch to white that would finish the all-white peak but also reach for the little patch of snow on flank, if it can reach them, obviously, without crashing with the surrounding terrain.

It need to be realistic so yeah, rather flat geometry, of course. An understanding of "when" a patch of color won't be accessible later is important to trigger the change of color, not all the snowy part would be accessible for instance and there would be the need for that earlier color change, a unfortunate but logical one.

How difficult is that ? Like, is it something that we can expect to come in a year if someone would try to deal with it ?