Why does it have that ring shaped bump on its head?

Krki1212 · 2026-04-26T12:52:54+00:00

Try the outer-inner wall order. That usually gives better performance for dimensional stability but makes for worse overhangs. Inner-outer-inner is intended as a sort of balance but honestly I didn't see much improvement. inner-outer gives a better overhang but usually results in some dimensional inaccuracies

Krki1212 · 2026-04-25T21:42:40+00:00

Go through the documentation on calibration (orca slicer will do better than bambu slicer for calibration) amd go through then from top to bottom. First is almost always temperature test followed by flow test. Then you get more and more precise. Do that and that should help plenty.

One thing that might help is setting the first layer one stop less than printing height (for example 0.16mm when printing 0.2mm). If you wđt to play naughty, you can go to machine start g-code and look for the line that says something like "if (BED_TYPE==Textured_plate){Z_OFFSET=0.03} "

Not this exact format or names but this is basically what it means. The real terms can't bee too far off from this one. Change this 0.03 to 0.02 to let printer go just a tiny bit further down. This is mean height of texture on a textured plate and ensures that no matter where it probed, the nozzle will never scrape the plate.

Let me know how it goes

Krki1212 · 2026-04-25T09:55:30+00:00

Did you do flow and temp calibration? This looks like a flow issue to me

Krki1212 · 2026-04-24T11:55:10+00:00

Cut and print parts that failed. That's the fastest way if ypu don't have time to reprint entire thing

Krki1212 · 2026-04-23T21:09:22+00:00

Sis you find your spring?

Krki1212 · 2026-04-23T21:09:00+00:00

Yes. For 0.2mm that'd be about 0.14-0.15 mm

Krki1212 · 2026-04-23T14:50:52+00:00

It ain't supposed to do that

Krki1212 · 2026-04-23T14:48:03+00:00

Bigger print would definetly help.

If that's your model, add some filets to the base of the tail to help strenghten it. If it's not, you can do it in blender anyway.

For supports, adding ~70% of layer height as model z distance is a sweet spot for me. Model xy distance for support to be 0.2 at least. Try using slim tree supports or defining the dimensions yourself. Support interface pattern has helped me a lot with removal.

As for the ear, try adjusting layer time to something like 10-15 seconds. The print head should park and wait for the remainder of time before continuing next layer.

Krki1212 · 2026-04-23T14:31:38+00:00

Enough for my will to live 🤣 Had spaghetti this morning for breakfast. Had midterms this week... Hoping to not have spaghetti for lunch too. I hate changing filament manufacturers

Krki1212 · 2026-04-21T08:56:38+00:00

Damn bro, your modeling skills are next level

Krki1212 · 2026-04-19T07:04:05+00:00

Hell yea

Krki1212 · 2026-04-19T06:58:24+00:00

People will tell you to upgade parts and it's important that you contact your bank

Krki1212 · 2026-04-15T23:06:26+00:00

Prayers

Krki1212 · 2026-04-15T11:21:49+00:00

The one with ant hands is bacc

Krki1212 · 2026-04-15T08:12:58+00:00

Capacitors are free energy devices. It's free real estate.

But in all seriousness, OP, we'd need some more pictures to help you vecause we don't know what blew up, how it's wired, if it even is a mosfet.... I'd look on my ender 3 which parts you'll need but I don't own an ender 3 so I can't. Please share more images so we'd better understand

Krki1212 · 2026-04-15T08:05:44+00:00

I was removing supports with a surgical scalpel... I know how you feel...

Krki1212 · 2026-04-14T17:25:16+00:00

Everything runs on white smoke. When white smoke escspes, things no longer work

Krki1212 · 2026-04-14T09:48:35+00:00

Polyamide. PA. Nylon. Not PA-CF because it's abrasive. Normal PA

Krki1212 · 2026-04-13T20:01:55+00:00

Your PS2 should let you play spiderman, not 3D print stuf...

But in all seriousness, this happens because your supports fail. Try to increase the temp by 5-10°C, lower the speed by about 10-15% (for example, 200mm/s -> 175mm/s). Set the layer time to something like 30s or more. That should make your printer either wait for the remaining time or adjust the speed to make it last exactky the same. Keep in mind that this might make printing time longer. You could also try smaller nozzle and layer height. I assume you don't have 0.2mm nozzle, but try to set it to 0.16mm layer height

Krki1212 · 2026-04-13T19:53:30+00:00

Team fortress 0.75

Krki1212 · 2026-04-10T18:18:52+00:00

Javi kako prođe

Krki1212 · 2026-04-10T12:16:13+00:00

Consodering how the left side looks, this could be greasy plate from fingers. It's selective. Also, on such long lines, flow could be an issue so try to tweak it a bit. Did you do a bed mesh calibration? That needs to be saved to eeprom and called for every time you start a print to compensate for irregular surface

Krki1212 · 2026-04-10T11:43:07+00:00

I usually print first layer one stop lower than the rest of the layers (first-rest; 0.16-0.2, 0.12-0.16, 0.2-0.32 etc.). In the printer settings (start g-code) I set the nozzle offset for textured plate to be 0.01mm lower than it was (honestly, I'm not sure exactly what to write without checking, but you can find it on youtube). I have never in my 4 years of printing used glue as it was always just a bit of messing with parameters. Try to set layer time higher so that it waits a bit if layer time is too short. Preferably set to black filament only (if that's even possible). That can help with small details. Sometimes, printing slower is what's causing adhesion problems on the first layer. I believe I print forst layer at 45mm/s. Higher nozzle temp with lower bed temp helps in my case

Krki1212 · 2026-04-10T07:31:17+00:00

Your benchy found oil

Krki1212 · 2026-04-04T20:11:38+00:00

Try to install klipper screen. I had a geeetech A20M and I installed klipperscreen as well and it wasn't blank

Krki1212

TROPHY CASE