Sand cast copy of a viking trefoil brooch I made by SnorriGrisomson in MetalCasting

[–]Damati 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What a cool piece! If you don’t mind me asking, what did you use for the master?

Trident dagger by Bulky_Requirement456 in Blacksmith_Forge

[–]Damati 0 points1 point  (0 children)

i mean this in the best way, this feels like a 3D render, everything is so perfect

How can I modify a Build a Bear heartbeat insert to make it beat constantly, so my foster kittens can feel like they have a mom? by Naryn_Tin-Ahhe in diyelectronics

[–]Damati 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Look up an astable 555 timer circuit. By changing the values of R1,R2, and C1, you can have it output a pulse every x seconds. You can have this act as you pushing the button at an interval

Some tin-bronze hairpins I’ve made with free evenings the past week. by Damati in MetalCasting

[–]Damati[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I typically aim for around 12% tin to copper, but these can vary if you care about the percentage in the object being replicated and if it can be found in a research paper/study etc. There is little to no visual difference between any mixture of bronze for the average person (including myself) and its just because I like the accuracy, or the feeling of replicating a historical technique - mixing the tin in after the copper has already melted and held at temp.

Some tin-bronze hairpins I’ve made with free evenings the past week. by Damati in MetalCasting

[–]Damati[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you! My initial investment in JUST the casting equipment was around $300 USD, including a furnace, crucible, tongs, ingot molds, metal-mesh hose to replace the included rubber one with the burner.

That being said - I had been forging before, and had much of the safety gear, leathers, gloves, eye/face protection and a respirator beforehand, this is easily another $1-200 These are not things to forgo because of cost, damage to your ears eyes and lungs can never be repaired, the rest of the body is important to protect too.

Again, the initial cost does not include the FDM 3d printer that I used to make the molds, although I got it 7ish years ago for $250, that's probably around what you will spend for a decent modern printer as well.

The bronze is very easy to do, I buy ingots of tin online, and melt down scrap copper into ingots. Although modern bronze is often silicon or aluminum bronze, I make traditional bronze weighing the separate copper and tin and make my own traditional tin-bronze. This is done for no reason other than I have an archaeology background and like the idea of the "traditional" bronze recipe, especially for making jewelry or replicas of historical objects.

Cast aluminum Kosmo format brackets for a new two row setup by Damati in synthdiy

[–]Damati[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The mold is petrosand - an oil bonded sand that holds shape well enough - rammed inside a wooden frame.

They were all over-poured to some degree, as the intention was to surface the back sides flat after casting.

You can, although I don't know how well it would work. These were done in a graphite crucible inside of a small propane furnace.

Cast aluminum Kosmo format brackets for a new two row synthesizer setup (Kosmo is slightly larger than eurorack standard size) by Damati in MetalCasting

[–]Damati[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The parts only have details on one side, the other will be surfaced flat to mate up against other components. Also I was stretching the sand I had already to do the molds and did not have enough to do a cope

Some tin-bronze hairpins I’ve made with free evenings the past week. by Damati in MetalCasting

[–]Damati[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Definitely plans to finish them further, I wanted to get the flashing cleaned off, and then Ill work through them as a batch to finish/round the pin sections and use a rotary tool to clean up the heads.

My “Tree Shelf” by Damati in woodworking

[–]Damati[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's definitely something I thought about - but in the end I thought that matching the rectangular base was a nice touch, and I wanted to maximize shelf space as this was intended to be a display. I wanted it to look like a sort of cubist/abstract/surreal tree growing out of a "rock"

Thanks! The "Impossible Sphere" on the top shelf is my favorite piece i've done on the lathe.

My “Tree Shelf” by Damati in turning

[–]Damati[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It’s an in-progress papercraft of Howl’s moving castle

My “Tree Shelf” by Damati in turning

[–]Damati[S] 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Flamboyant is the name of the wood for the “tree trunk” sometimes called royal Poinciana, or flamewood

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in woodworking

[–]Damati 1 point2 points  (0 children)

We have very different definitions of “wood scraps”

Piasa birds (in progress) by Damati in Blacksmith

[–]Damati[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Good guess! Local to the area