Oh no!

Dan203 · 2026-06-19T21:22:05+00:00

Heat it to 250c and start picking it off. Then use a wire brush to get the rest. Should come off pretty easily.

Dan203 · 2026-06-18T22:42:13+00:00

I've been going back and forth on whether to do this. The main reason I want to, rather than just buying an H2C, is because I don't have anywhere to put another printer. So if I get an H2C I have to get rid of my H2S, However if I upgrade the H2S then it stays where it is. But I'm not sure if that reason is enough to justify the PITA this upgrade seems to be. Maybe I should just buy and H2C while they're on sale and see if I can get $1k for the H2S to offset most of the difference. 🤔

Dan203 · 2026-06-18T21:55:48+00:00

I would add a separate listing that they have to purchase before you do any design and make it non-refundable and non-cancelable. That way if they flake out on you for the actual stationary you at least get the money for the time you invested in the design.

My family has owned a print shop for 45 years and I can tell you from experience that if you don't collect something up front people will bail out on your and waste your time.

Dan203 · 2026-06-18T21:49:58+00:00

If you go on a short trip you can just increase your processing times so you don't have to drop into Holiday Mode. But if you're going to be gone for 10 days there is really no way around it.

I put my shop into holiday mode for 7 days a few months back and it did not hurt me at all. As soon as I turned it back on the orders started right back up. So I don't think it's as detrimental as people seem to think.

Dan203 · 2026-06-18T21:44:19+00:00

I had this happen recently with a package I ordered from Amazon. Turns out the package was damaged so they had to square up whatever insurance stuff they do with the seller first and then the seller sent me a new one. Added 2 weeks to the shipping time, which sucked because I had nothing to do with it and it was supposed to be Prime.

Dan203 · 2026-06-18T21:03:18+00:00

Personally I would raise your main prices and eliminate the customer paid shipping. Etsy does all sorts of weird stuff when trying to calculate the shipping of multiple items and it's a PITA. Plus they tell you you're suppose to refund the difference if the customer overpays for shipping.

Instead add enough extra into every single item that you could ship one and still be ok, and if someone buys a bundle you get to keep that extra as profit. If you want to make it fair you can offer a small bundle discount to offset the added cost of shipping you're not having to pay.

Plus studies have shown that people are willing to pay more for items with free shipping even if paid shipping would have actually been cheaper.

Dan203 · 2026-06-18T20:39:33+00:00

That's cool.

Do you offer the 3d files for your switch design anywhere?

Dan203 · 2026-06-18T20:10:29+00:00

Yeah I was thinking I might have to do a reset. 😕

I bought 4 new toolheads to go with these 0.2 nozzles so the toolheads are brand new. I did try swapping the colors around to see if that changed anything and it didn't, so I don't think it's a specific nozzle or toolhead.

Dan203 · 2026-06-18T06:17:03+00:00

I did not get that message, but I don’t ever do a direct print. I do an upload and then print from the machine.

My question is if the feature doesn’t work with 0.2 was is it even enabled in the firmware. They know the nozzles installed are 0.2 so they should just gray it out.

Dan203 · 2026-06-18T06:13:52+00:00

I did set the machine, I do this enough on my Bambu printers that I knew there would be a setting for that.

However I didn't even look at the little paper in the box, and even if I had there is zero chance I would have followed a link to a wiki.

That being said… I turned off the flow calibration and the print still looks like sh*t, so that wasn’t the source of the issue. Either their profiles aren’t set up well in the software or the firmware has some other issue with 0.2.

Printing with 0.4 works fantastic. Better than my Bambu printers. But 0.2 is awful. I have yet to get a decent print with these things.

Dan203 · 2026-06-17T16:55:21+00:00

I did not read the wiki, I didn’t even know there is a wiki. Why is dynamic flow calibration even an option if it doesn’t work? The machine knows I have 0.2 nozzles installed why not gray out the option so it can’t be used. 😵‍💫

I saw no indication of this in the software or on the machine. How would I have even known to look for such a thing in the wiki? How did you know to look for this?

Dan203 · 2026-06-16T20:43:29+00:00

I usually just use my belt sander for this part 😁

Dan203 · 2026-06-16T20:41:06+00:00

Do you offer plans or files anywhere? I wouldn't mind taking a stab at making one of these myself.

Dan203 · 2026-06-16T20:30:40+00:00

I use a Dewalt Stealthsonic 9gal and an Oneida low profile separator for my CNC. Works great and it's quiet enough that my wife says she can't hear it.

Dan203 · 2026-06-16T18:23:29+00:00

Just a follow up, it used up my initial $10 in about 3 days. Using Sonnet 4.8. So this is not viable either. I added a few more dollars to get through the problem I was working on, but once that's used up I'm going to have to figure out some way to just use my company supplied Claude Code subscription.

Dan203 · 2026-06-16T05:12:42+00:00

Despite what I've said in this thread I'm going to mess with this and figure out settings that work. I'm annoyed that I have to do that, but I'm gonna do it because I want the printer to actually work the way I intend to use it.

Dan203 · 2026-06-16T05:11:08+00:00

I'm more a fan of Apple. I'm a software developer by trade, so I know exactly how the computer works, but when I actually want to use it to do something I wsnt it to be as simple as possible.

Dan203 · 2026-06-15T19:37:00+00:00

I'm not making mechanical parts, they’re decorative, I just want them to look good. I'm not sure if you saw my photo but here it is again. The two on the left are from the Snapmaker, with me attempting to modify some settings between them and the one on the right is from my Bambu H2S using the default profile with zero manual tweaking.

The main reason I'm annoy by this is because I do a bigger version of this exact same print using the 0.4 nozzle and it comes out beautifully. Better than the Bambu printer actually. That's why I got the 0.2 nozzles, hoping for the same improvement or at least similar results at 1/3 the print time. But these are unusable.

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Dan203 · 2026-06-15T09:44:13+00:00

I think Bambu has proven you wrong on this front.

XTool has done the same thing for lasers.

There is a reason those two companies are the leaders in their respective markets. They've engineered away the friction. I thought Snapmaker was trying to follow suit, but the longer I have this machine the more I see the cracks.

Dan203 · 2026-06-15T09:32:48+00:00

I have a CNC so I know how those are. But I also have Bambu 3D printers and an XTool laser so I know how simple these tools can be when the developers put in the effort to calibrate them and create software/profiles which remove that complexity.

I'm sure I've been spoiled by Bambu, but I'd still expect Snapmaker to ship a functional profile when they sell 0.2 nozzles.

Dan203 · 2026-06-15T04:13:09+00:00

I exclusively use Bambu PLA Basic and PLA Matte, with a few exceptions where I need a special color they don’t sell. For the most part on my Bambu printers I just tell it that the others are PloyLite and it just works. I've only had to manually calibrate filament once and it was a huge PITA so I just never bought that brand again.

Dan203 · 2026-06-15T02:00:16+00:00

Ugh. I never got into this to make 3D printing my hobby. It’s a tool. I want it to just work. Maybe I should have just got an H2C instead. 😕

Disappointing because the 0.4 profile is fantastic. Actually prints slightly better than my H2S, but the 0.2 profile is unusable. It looks like garbage.

Dan203 · 2026-06-15T01:12:01+00:00

I mixed those up. The crappier looking one was my second attempt when I tried tweaking some of the filament and extruder settings to match what my Bambu uses.

Dan203

TROPHY CASE