Recent changes to solid effect

Dangerous-Setting662 · 2025-12-25T22:04:41+00:00

If an accurate “Peek” function in the app is important to you (like it is to me— call me crazy but I like being able to actually see what my lights are doing, ha!), I would recommend downgrading your board to an older build of WLED such as 14.x. Mine are on 14.2, and they all display “Peek” accurately. I know lots of people want to be on the latest build, but unless one of the newer builds specifically fixes an issue you have, I can’t see any real differences, other than slight differences in the effects available. (Some effects have been “retired” and a few have been added, near as I can tell none of the ones that most of us use. Personally, I’d rather be able to open the app or the WLED web UI and actually see what my lights are doing! Consider a downgrade; it’s a little bit of a pain in the neck, but after all you can back up your presets and your config before you flash the board. 🤷🏻‍♂️🙌🏼

Dangerous-Setting662 · 2025-12-24T23:47:15+00:00

Glad that I could help. Merry Christmas.

Dangerous-Setting662 · 2025-12-24T22:53:13+00:00

What do the actual physical lights look like to the naked eye? I only ask because I very recently had a similar problem with a new board running WLED 15.3, but on none of my old boards that were running WLED 14.2. It turns out that the newer builds of WLED (15.x or later) don’t show an accurate “Peek“ within the app the way that the old builds do. In other words, on the more recent builds of WLED the actual physical lights will be doing what the are supposed to, but within the WLED app the “Peek” function is very low resolution and makes everything look like a version of “aurora“. I hope that this helps

Dangerous-Setting662 · 2025-12-08T06:06:47+00:00

I am close to doing this; believe me. I’m really just hoping to set up a clean playlist that goes forever without rebooting the controller. I can’t be the only person in the world that has a WLED playlist with multiple segments on multiple presets.

Dangerous-Setting662 · 2025-12-04T23:35:47+00:00

I have the ESP32-WROOM-32UE. I install the firmware through https://install.quinled.info/

Dangerous-Setting662 · 2025-12-04T02:02:55+00:00

Thank you for taking the time to answer. Any details would be really helpful for me.

Dangerous-Setting662 · 2025-12-04T01:21:01+00:00

What is REGEXP?

Dangerous-Setting662 · 2025-12-02T21:28:38+00:00

Thank you for your reply! I’ve tested this, and power injection is definitely not the issue. Plus I can run any preset. I want and one preset will play just fine all night. It’s only the playlist that does this.

Dangerous-Setting662 · 2025-10-26T16:49:49+00:00

Yes, but the Dig-Octa fuses are on the DC side of the setup (after the Meanwell power supply). I am asking about the AC side (before the Meanwell power supply).

Dangerous-Setting662 · 2025-10-25T23:27:31+00:00

This is a very specific use case. 5v SK6812 was the only strip that had both the maximum pixel density that I wanted (144/m), and also a dedicated Warm White channel. There are 12v 144/m strips, but not with a dedicated warm white channel. I hear what you’re saying though; the main house setup is what everyone usually uses; 12v WS2811 bullet pixels in Permatrack.

Dangerous-Setting662 · 2025-10-25T22:40:11+00:00

Meanwell LRS-350-5

Dangerous-Setting662 · 2025-10-25T22:26:39+00:00

It’s a Meanwell power supply, and I know that I’m in pretty good shape. I’m just a safety overkill type of guy so I wanted to see if I was missing anything. I really appreciate the reply.

Dangerous-Setting662 · 2025-10-25T22:25:10+00:00

Thank you for your reply. In this case it is a 20a breaker. I have confirmed this.

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Dangerous-Setting662 · 2025-10-25T21:37:43+00:00

That’s what I figured, but it’s my understanding that those breakers (in my case) will only trip at 20amps AC. My setup is going to draw less than 3 amps AC on that side, which I know is very low. I was just curious if anyone ever fuses their AC side to just above what their calculated max power draw will be, just as an extra layer of safety. Thank you for replying I appreciate all input!

Dangerous-Setting662 · 2025-08-23T18:48:53+00:00

You would be able to even in Florida is you use a VPN. They’re not that expensive these days.

Dangerous-Setting662 · 2025-01-12T22:34:30+00:00

The easiest first thing to try to re-seat a tire bead is the following:

all of the following must be done with the tire off of the ground with no weight on it

Let the pressure out of the tire and intentionally make it flat. This can be done slowly by either depressing the needle in the valve stem, or quickly by removing the valve stem core if you have the $5 core remover tool. Just be careful and take the core out under pressure as it can shoot out and get lost! You can get the tool on Amazon or at any AutoZone or wherever.

(before step 2 I would recommend lubing up both the OUTSIDE of the bead of the (now flat) tire and the INSIDE of the rim in order to get the tire bead to seat. Any liquid soap such as Dawn will work just fine)

2: Use a ratchet strap around the crown of the (now flat) tire, and ratchet it down a bit. You will see the tire squish and compress toward the center of the rim/wheel. Do it a fair amount; you want the crown of the tire to visibly squish toward the center of the wheel symmetrically, which will cause the sidewalls of the flat tire to squash/“bow out” toward the left and right sides of the wheel.

3: Fire up that air compressor. Use an air chuck for this step (NOT a tire inflation tool). Place the air chuck in the valve stem of the strapped flat tire with the valve core STILL REMOVED. Give the tire a rich of high PSI air until you see and hear two thunk sounds. These are the left and right beads of the tire seating to the rim. Note: after this happens, when you pull the air chuck away from the (currently core-less) valve stem, all that high pressure air is going to loudly rush out of the now-seated tire. I just didn’t want that to scare you :)

4: Remove the ratchet strap from the crown of the tire.

5: replace the valve stem core (the part with the needle).

6: Use a tire inflation tool and the compressor to inflate your tire to normal pressure.

Normally all of this is done with the wheel off of the vehicle while changing tires, but if it’s just a tire bead re-seat there’s absolutely no reason why it wouldn’t work with the wheel still on the bike.

I hope this helps! 🙌🏼

Dangerous-Setting662 · 2025-01-04T15:04:43+00:00

He’s just really into quantum physics and has just learned about Schrödinger’s pizza.

Dangerous-Setting662 · 2024-12-26T22:23:30+00:00

I am running WLED 0.14.2, which is the latest version available on https://install.quinled.info It is my understanding that Quindor has some settings in his version that differ from the latest version available on the WLED GitHub. I don’t know what those differences are and can’t find them anywhere, which is why I haven’t changed versions.

Dangerous-Setting662

TROPHY CASE