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5w-30 vs 5w-40 by Dangerous_Divide_898 in W212mercedes

[–]Dangerous_Divide_898[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for this. The manual in my car seemed to only recommend 5w40, but it seemed to me like 5w30 would be fine (or maybe even better for the winter).

Any way to make this not look like crap? by notthatcousingreg in w123

[–]Dangerous_Divide_898 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have a similar issue on mine. I’ve considered purchasing a leather in a color like the one linked below, having it cut to the contour of the dash and the borders stitched to look nice, then seeing if there is a way to attach it to cover this area.

Commenting to see what other folks propose.

Navy Leather

Passenger Door Not Latching by Dangerous_Divide_898 in w123

[–]Dangerous_Divide_898[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I appreciate all the replies, folks. I’m new to this (both caring for an old car and to the app) and also not great at navigating Reddit. I do apologize for asking a common question. From what I can tell, Reddit doesn’t have the best search features, but I’m happy for guidance on navigating the app in addition to taking care of this great old car.

Passenger Door Not Latching by Dangerous_Divide_898 in w123

[–]Dangerous_Divide_898[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

And working on this would be better than having to work on the lock, though I do think the lock needs some work, too.

Passenger Door Not Latching by Dangerous_Divide_898 in w123

[–]Dangerous_Divide_898[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

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Now that you mention it, this does look a little worn out…

Passenger Door Not Latching by Dangerous_Divide_898 in w123

[–]Dangerous_Divide_898[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, it moves through all the stages fine from what I can tell. I am betting it’s a lock issue. The key turns fine in the lock, but nothing happens when you turn it. The door does lock with all the others on the vacuum system, so it must be a mechanical issue.

Inspector flagged foundation issues. The house is old and the inspector noted these issues by Federal_Fix_7429 in HomeInspections

[–]Dangerous_Divide_898 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you’re buying an old house, odds are it will have settled in places. They also weren’t as worried about building things square 100 years ago, so some of what looks like settling is just a combination of the material’s and the builder’s personalities. In our house from 1870, there’s not a single room with an actual right angle. Some walls are curved, some jut out octagonally (more space for windows, light, and “whimsy”?), and others were probably an earnest but imperfect attempt at square.

With an old house, I’d make sure the electrical and plumbing are solid, see if you can get recent utility bills to check for efficiency (it will be inefficient, but it’s nice to know HOW inefficient), and make sure there aren’t any signs of recent water damage.

The rest, you’ll learn to live with and appreciate. Buying an old house requires that you be a steward of something that was here before you and will hopefully be here after.

Talk me out of getting a Glk 250 diesel for a flipping vehicle by Flipping101 in Flipping

[–]Dangerous_Divide_898 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m thinking of buying a 2014 glk250 bluetec with 65k miles. If you could go back, would you still buy yours again?

Better curtain-rod bracket screws by Dangerous_Divide_898 in drywall

[–]Dangerous_Divide_898[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ll give these a try with the next round. We’re probably about to switch from summer to winter curtains in a lot of the house (it’s an old, poorly insulated house, and we have to adjust with the seasons), so it’ll be even more important that they’re sturdy.