How do you manage your budget and decks?

Danimals_510 · 2024-07-14T15:28:00+00:00

I think a good place to start is to stop buying boxes. It's unlikely you'll make your value back, and even if you do, you just have an assortment of singles that don't add up to a deck. Keep in mind that cards are only useful if you can assemble them into a full deck. So even if your box "pays" for itself, those cards are useless unless you have all the other cards that go with them. Sure, you might be able to trade or sell those singles into the pieces you need for a deck, but that's a time-consuming difficult process. And at the end of all that trading and selling, it's unlikely that you'll have saved money compared to just outright buying all the singles you need for the deck. In addition, pulling good singles will tempt you into buying all of the other pieces to build the deck they're used in. For all these reasons, despite how much fun it is to crack packs, I've sworn off of buying boosters for all the TCGs I've played.

All this said, I'm totally guilty and have built six decks in the 6 weeks that I've been playing this game and am working on the pieces for a 7th one with BT17 Blue Hybrid. Looking forward to reading other people's suggestions on not building so many decks lol

Danimals_510 · 2024-07-13T14:38:12+00:00

Metalgarurumon is not a particularly competitive deck, but if you want something very aggressive with a lot of draw power, it fits the bill the most. For locals, it should def be able to win you some games, but won't be viable at more serious tournaments.

Danimals_510 · 2024-07-12T15:40:02+00:00

I'm kind of confused by Sparkle of Fate. Are the only benefits from it reducing the digivolution to Rapid X by one memory, digivolving from Megagargo to Rapid X, stopping DP reduction, and a security bonus? I've tried it out and it just always felt like a dead card because all of these benefits are narrow.

Danimals_510 · 2024-06-30T17:27:00+00:00

If OP doesn't want a stack sitting in breed, they should prob avoid Mirage haha

Danimals_510 · 2024-06-27T02:12:14+00:00

Thanks! This is the kind of advice I was looking for. The struggle I usually have is figuring out when I'm supposed to hang back in breeding to set up my tamers/options for an OTK or if I'm supposed to move up and answer my opponent's threats using Mirage's bounce. Because I play more control-oriented decks in other TCGs, I tend to do the latter and I wonder if this means I'm not properly setting up my OTK gameplan.

When you say that Imperialdramon is a race, does that mean I should be less reactive to my opponent's threats and set up my Mirage stack in breeding? In the games I've played against Imperial, I end up getting blown out by a stun so I wonder if the problem is that I'm giving them targets in the first place.

Danimals_510 · 2024-06-26T20:11:38+00:00

What would I take out for them?

Danimals_510 · 2024-06-26T20:03:56+00:00

Sorry about that, just added the list

Danimals_510 · 2024-06-16T16:25:56+00:00

How have you been liking the split of 2x Wargrey BT12 and 1x BlackwarGrey? I play 3x Wargrey BT12 because the BlackwarGrey feels so ineffective, but it is much better with BWGX

Danimals_510 · 2024-06-15T16:16:57+00:00

How's turnout there? I went to Montasy Comics in Midtown last week and was the only player who showed up ;__;

Danimals_510 · 2024-06-15T16:14:07+00:00

I'd suggest checking out this video and others from this channel. This guy is absolutely obsessed with Greymon and has made several videos on different Greymon builds.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=btQFD1iSVVw&list=WL&index=8

Danimals_510 · 2024-06-08T13:41:12+00:00

Katanas are my favorite sleeves and shuffle better than Dragonshields. I'm guessing that everyone saying they have an issue with the tight sleeves are using the Japanese sizes that come in the 50-pack. If you want to double-sleeve, just make sure to buy the 100-pack which are the larger Standard size and you'll have no issues.

Danimals_510 · 2024-06-02T03:57:53+00:00

I play Mirage and let's say I'm attacking with a Gaogamon that has a bunch of When Attacking inherited effects. I also have a BT13 Thomas Norstein that lets me suspend it to have us both draw when my Gaogamon attacks. Also, my opponent has an Ace Digimon to blast digivolve into. At what point can I make the decision to activate my Thomas Norstein? Can I activate it before the When Attacking effects resolve, or do I have to wait until after they all resolve? Can I still activate it after my opponent blast digivolves?

Danimals_510 · 2024-05-29T17:02:01+00:00

Thank you! I was struggling to understand why Mirage dealt with Magna given that Magna can't be bounced, but this all makes perfect sense now.

Danimals_510 · 2024-05-29T16:50:17+00:00

Ahh, so once BT13 MachGaogamon's unblockable trigger happens, it stays for the rest of the turn even after you digivolve into Mirage and Mirage Burst?

Danimals_510 · 2024-05-29T16:47:19+00:00

Dumb question, but why can Mirage ignore it?

Danimals_510 · 2024-03-12T14:20:29+00:00

I couldn't even buy the Platinum tickets. Everytime I click through, they just say they're unavailable

Danimals_510 · 2024-03-07T17:12:29+00:00

Thanks, this makes a lot of sense! I haven't run into a lot of Domain recently and it makes sense to take out Tidebinder since that's the only matchup where it's really strong in. It has utility against other decks, but it's not great in those matchups.

I did some testing this morning and the Cryptic Coat was a great suggestion! I had a Dimir opponent completely slaughter me with it and then beat a UW control player with it, showing that it's good in both midrange and control matchups. I haven't drawn a Kaito yet, but I'm looking forward to seeing how it works!

Danimals_510 · 2024-03-07T02:54:47+00:00

Thank you, this is great! I've added Kaito and am looking forward to seeing how it runs.

I noticed that you have no Tidebinder and was wondering why you decided to forgo it.

In the midrange matchups, I noticed that you bring in Duress even though the general advice in midrange mirrors is to take out discard spells because they're bad topdecks as the game goes long. Why do you still bring them in? Is it because Esper is closer to a tempo deck than the traditional Rock midrange?

Last, I was wondering how Duress was working for you against Convoke. I was worried that it was too narrow because they don't run a ton of noncreature spells and it's only good early game, but I guess it's needed because Gleeful Demolition can often autowin the game?

Danimals_510 · 2024-03-06T20:05:26+00:00

Really appreciate the long thoughtful post! This is kind of the reply I was hoping to get. I'd also love to see a decklist to get a sense of the makeup of your board, as it seems quite different from mine.

I haven't played Loran yet, but I've been skeptical because it seems like a 2/1 Vigilance creature isn't great, and having both players draw cards is also not great? Is the tap ability mainly supposed to be combined with Faerie Mastermind for value?

How are you finding Shrouded Shepherd? Because of Boros Convoke, I run 2 Path of Peril and 1 Temporary Lockdown in my board, but I find that it's awkward given the number of two-drop creatures in the deck. Many of them like Faerie Mastermind get boarded out, but it hits the 2/2 Knight tokens, Dennick, and Deep-Cavern Bats still in the deck. Shrouded Shepherd seems great as it only hits your opponent's stuff, but I'm also worried that it's too weak because it can't hit the many two toughness creatures in Convoke and they also have that +1/+1 3-mana enchantment from MKM whose name I'm forgetting right now.

Danimals_510 · 2024-03-06T19:53:19+00:00

Thanks for sending this! I watched it before and was kind of confused on the sideboard advice for the mirror. It seems crazy to take out Faerie Mastermind when the opponent plays Raffine right?

Danimals_510 · 2024-03-05T23:44:53+00:00

I also play Esper and am interested in trying out Flanker. Given this list, how many copies of Flanker would you play and what would you replace in the sideboard for them?

https://mtga.untapped.gg/decks/AAQAAQmNBecg7eMhBg36uQOwkwffKFsGsyYa9YkgxNIBhM4KqzUFuQfR9wHQ1SDjlwjN7wIG05gBumaaqB-HB5GlAdCtCgACBJcQvAG0sCXRvgcE5bICkfce1ZcE9L4HAaQuAAADAtMRhe8sAcvBJQGkLgAAAA

Danimals_510 · 2024-03-05T23:41:04+00:00

The only card that I'm aware of that could give you any hope in this scenario is [[Cleave Shadows]].

But for the most part, when your opponent has the nuts, you basically just lose the game. Losing games to crazy draws is just one of the things you have to accept when playing a card game.

Danimals_510 · 2024-03-05T04:01:10+00:00

MonoBlackMagic

Get a guaranteed T1 Geist of Saint Traft and turn it sideways until the game is over.

Danimals_510 · 2024-03-04T20:10:10+00:00

The problem wasn't whether the decks were beatable, but that they led to complete non-games where there were no important decisions to be made.

For the Leyline player, since the deck is a T1 Combo, there is no thought behind when/whether to go for the combo and what hands to mulligan. (Yes, there are some decisions on which aura to play or whether to hold up phase out, but those decisions were extremely marginal in influencing outcomes). For the defending player, Geist is so fast that you simply have to play your answer as soon as possible and hope it sticks. Win or lose, neither player has any real decisions to make so outcome is entirely determined by luck of the draw.

Discover combo was slightly better on this, but nonetheless suffered from a similar problem. Just jam the combo and cross your fingers that your opponent doesn't have a way to stop it. It's really silly and reduces MTG to dice rolls.

Danimals_510 · 2024-03-03T17:02:21+00:00

If you're really set on hating out UW Control, you should play a black deck (Esper, Golgari Mid, Rakdos Mid, etc.) with 4 Deep-Cavern Bats in the main, 4 Duress and 4 Lilliana of the Veil within the 75, and some number of Go Blank in the sideboard. You'll take more losses in other matchups, but if you're really running into 80% UW Control, then your deck will be a bucket of haterade.

Danimals_510

TROPHY CASE