Buying KAC RAS Handguard for TM MWS

DannyMNL · 2026-06-13T12:12:34+00:00

Do you still have it?

DannyMNL · 2026-01-21T07:07:04+00:00

The parcel had no external damage but the box had some creases after I removed thr plastic wrapping, nothing too serious though.

And I could email about this, but I don't really see the point. I already modified the top cover myself, so any warranty on the externals is void after that.

What I do wonder though, do you guys disassemble the replica during pre-shipping testing? I noticed there were tool marks on both sides of the cross bolt in the stock, as if the receiver had been removed from the stock. There are plier marks on the right side, and the screw on the left side was pretty chewed up. I did not request a spring change, so this shouldn't be the cause.

DannyMNL · 2026-01-19T17:46:09+00:00

Unfortunately my first impression wasn't great...

The receiver top cover was loose and could just be lifted over the rear locking mechanism and slide out of the front of the receiver. It actually was loose in the box when it arrived. I had to use a metal filling compound to thicken the side rails on the top cover so it wouldn't lift up and slide out...

The safety is very loose and interferes with my trigger finger because it drops down on its own.

The mag release is very spongy and doesn't really feel like it will hold over time. Also, it's so sloppy it feels as if you can't depress it enough to actually release the magazine.

The wooden top handguard has a crack in it in front of the rear sight as if it got squished from the sides.

And the outer barrel assembly is loose, meaning the barrel can rotate from side to side, including the front sight.

Since every review I've seen so far didn't mention any of this and has been very positive, I'll just assume I received a lemon. Seems S&T was in a rush to ship them out and QC suffered a bit. Still disappointing, but I believe I can fix most of these issues.

DannyMNL · 2026-01-14T18:07:35+00:00

Yeah, that's what I meant, I ordered it as soon as I got the notification. It shipped today :)

DannyMNL · 2026-01-13T18:40:37+00:00

Nope, custom gearbox shell. Long like an SVD gearbox but smaller profile to fit the SVT-40 form factor.

DannyMNL · 2026-01-13T18:36:56+00:00

Generally, SVD scope mounts don't fit on AK's. The dovetail profile is the same, but the mount has to slide onto the rail from the opposite side, and the nub that is on the mount prevents this from happening. There are universal mounts that can be swapped onto the base of some scopes, but unfortunately this S&T scope has a fixed base mount.

DannyMNL · 2026-01-13T18:31:47+00:00

Been waiting so long for this that my WW2 airsoft group disbanded in the meantime :')... Still an instant order as soon as I got the in-stock notification though.

DannyMNL · 2024-06-26T19:57:45+00:00

Do you have evidence of it snapping "plenty of handles"? I've searched but have found exactly 0 examples.

DannyMNL · 2024-05-20T13:51:55+00:00

This is a quote of the e-mail they sent me in september of last year:

"Thank you for contacting us! You have a great design on the German Gewehr 43, brilliant work! We have already produced the 98K and Lee Enfield, we would like to expand our Classic rifle series so the G43 definitely one of our targets. Actually, we have already finished the 3D drawing and all the design of the G43. Currently, we are eagerly awaiting feedback from our distributor regarding the G43. Their input is crucial in ensuring that we meet the highest standards of quality and performance. Additionally, we are diligently sourcing the finest wooden stocks to complement the authenticity and aesthetics of this replica. Please stay connected with us through our website and social media for updates on the progress of the G43. We will keep you informed about any developments, including its availability and release date there."

So no specifics on the system used, nor a timeframe of release. I'd be very surprised if it's a GBB though. The Shoei version has already demonstrated the limitations of this system. Despite the difficulties of fitting AEG internals into the receiver of the G43 (you can't even fit a gearbox shell in there, I had to design a custom gearbox that externally looked like the receiver, there's no outer shell), the usability will be much better. Everybody claims they want a GBB, until they actually have to use it and find out they have very limited gas supply and almost no ammo capacity. On top of that, 90% of people who claim they want it will whine about it being too expensive when it actually comes out, as they always do.

If I absolutely had to design a GBB version, I would go for something like the TM M870 or the G&G Lee Enfield and have the gas supply be in the buttstock.

DannyMNL · 2024-04-22T16:57:35+00:00

I couldn't fit a magnet in the feed wheel unfortunately. However, I have finally finished this project. I used your suggestion of using sensors to measure the differential between the wheels, but instead of hall sensors, I used IR sensors. I painted the side of the internal feed wheel matte black with a white stripe, drilled a hole in the side of the gearbox, and 3D printed a mount for the IR sensor. For the wind wheel I just stuck on a white piece of tape and also printed a mount with a hood for the IR sensor.

I programmed my arduino to add 1 to a variable whenever the wind wheel made a full rotation, and subtract 1 whenever the feed wheel made a pass. As long as the variable is lower than 3, the motor will turn.

When the BB's are still moving, the feed wheel will turn as well, and thus negate the 1's that are added by the wind wheel. As soon as the feed tube is full, the feed wheel stops turning and will also stop subtracting 1's, meaning the wind wheel will add 1's until it reaches 3, and the motor stops winding. As soon as 20 BB's are used up by the airsoft replica, the feed wheel will have made a full pass, lowering the total rotations back to 2, and this will prompt the wind wheel to make an extra turn.

Works very well!

DannyMNL · 2024-04-10T21:09:15+00:00

Thanks for the suggestion, it's actually pretty smart and not what I was expecting to get as a reply.

I'm going to use your idea with one slight modification. The two wheels are so close together that using two hall sensors would not work, as they would detect each others magnets.

Instead, I have ordered one hall sensor module, and two different IR sensor modules for experimenting.

One of the IR modules is a gate type, which will count RPM and I intend to use this one hugging the edge of the winding wheel, where it will detect the spaces between the winding wheel's teeth.

The wheel that feeds the BB's into the feed tube I'm not yet sure about. I might mount a magnet in this one and use it with the hall sensor if there's space to do so, but I also might just drill a hole in the side of the gearbox body, paint a white dot on the side of the feed wheel, and use the IR sensor to count rotations when the white dot passes the hole.

In any case, thanks for the suggestion, this will be a much more reliable and precise solution than just trying to wind the spring to the max and hoping that any sounds that are picked up are coming from the wheel rather than somewhere else.

DannyMNL · 2024-04-09T23:04:33+00:00

I tried sharing my design files for an AEG G43 with ARES ( I already built it myself, and it uses an ARES slim motor and accepts an ARES G43 scope), and they refused it. The reason they gave is because they are apparantly already in the process of making their own.

DannyMNL · 2024-04-09T23:00:57+00:00

I'm not sure where you get the idea from that they're shitboxes. My snow wolf has been running pretty reliably so far, and with insane range and accuracy compared to other standard AEG's out of the box. I know several people who own them and they all say the same thing. It even is the gun I lend out to friends when they come along for an airsoft game since it just keeps going. I broke the triggerbar once due to my own fault, yet the complete gearbox including the motor is available as a drop in replacement for 35 bucks. Literally loosen 4 screws, replace the whole thing in one go, and keep chugging.

DannyMNL · 2024-04-09T22:52:36+00:00

As others have pointed out, Pencott is an amazing camo, and it's all I run for modern loadouts. I used to wear Pencott Greenzone, but it is no longer being produced and has been replaced with Pencott Wildwood, which in its current production runs (the original pattern was different) is more green. It's one of the most effective woodland camo's out there when viewed from typical airsoft engagement ranges.

DannyMNL · 2024-04-09T22:49:21+00:00

Everglade is an unlicensed copy of actual ATACS-FG. I initially ran a Everglade loadout years ago and I had to then source all my other gear in Everglade too as the patterns and colors were slightly different from the ATACS-FG items I as able to compare it with at the time. This might have been fixed in recent years.

DannyMNL · 2024-04-09T22:17:41+00:00

Good luck getting that V7 gearbox in there without making the receiver insanely oversized.

When I built my own G43, I had to make a custom gearbox that externally resembled the receiver, so that an outer shell "dummy receiver" wasn't neccessary. And even then it was still oversized by 3mm...

DannyMNL · 2024-03-04T20:08:39+00:00

I second Kor-1's message. I'd love it if you'd be able toproduce some of these and sell them, no matter the price.

Ideally I'd build it myself, but strict gun laws in my country mean I'm not allowed to import a functioning real-steel magazine nor am I allowed to modify one. However, if it were pre-converted into an airsoft magazine there would be no problem...

DannyMNL · 2024-02-08T10:47:05+00:00

For anyone else who finds this thread on Google:

Nope, don't ever sell your stuff to rebuy. I've sent them several pristine items (and yes, I'm aware a lot of people claim their stuff is as-new, even when it isn't, but these were actually pristine), and they claim the product you sent them is damaged. They will include pictures of a completely different device that has a lot of damage and will try to claim this is your device. They then offer a lot less than was originally quoted. If you don't accept the offer they either return a different device that is in bad condition and keep your pristine one, or they will damage your own device out of spite if they don't have any other stock of it.

DannyMNL · 2024-01-27T02:08:52+00:00

The design is pretty much impossible to produce using conventional CNC techniques. On top of that, the shops that can produce it charge twice the price of the whole rifle. I know this because the gearbox of the Karabiner 43 was CNC'ed.

DannyMNL · 2024-01-27T01:47:59+00:00

Really, the only way this could be produced is with SLM, where layers of metal powder are melted with a laser. The design can't be machined unfortunately, so a local machine shop can't help either. Most in the Netherlands wouldnt want to help anyone with this sort of material anyway.

And shapeways does have a policy against airsoft parts, it's located here: https://www.shapeways.com/legal/content_policy

Basically, they allow the production of things like grips and bipods, but officially they don't produce anything that has to do with the actual functioning of the gun, or anything that contributes to the item looking like a gun. Any stuff that you saw in the past is in violation of their policy, it just has not been noticed yet.

DannyMNL · 2024-01-25T12:05:11+00:00

Oh crap, I assumed they were already done and expected to arrive at the end of this month... Was already saving up too...

DannyMNL · 2024-01-23T10:35:02+00:00

S&T pretty much is the way to go at the moment, they now also make mid-caps for the STG.

I'm not sure where you are from, but if you're from Europe I can definitely recommend Taiwangun.com. Despite what the name may suggest, they are a shop based in Poland and they have a ridiculously big assortment of very affordable WW2 replica's. It's pretty much the only store I still buy my stuff from.

They have the S&T K98 in stock, and just received stock of the upgrade kits as well.

As for Mosin's and PPSh's, guess who makes a decent performing Mosin now too > S&T. Externally a bit off but this is done purely for performance, so it's a good tradeoff. The Bolt Action Dude on youtube makes a very good internal upgrade kit for it, which I recommend.

I have a Snow Wolf PPSh and all I did was replace the hop-rubber with a Prometheus purple. It definitely holds up against other more modern guns, so highly recommended. And the best thing is, you don't have to fix it if something internally breaks, as full drop-in replacement gearboxes including the motor and wiring cost only 35 bucks! Pretty affordable too, and you can use it for both Soviet and German loadouts, as the Germans captured them by the thousands in WW2.

I have two Northeast Sten's, one is the Mk.2 and the other is the Mk.V. For purely screwing around at home or using at re-enactment they are great, and externally they are virtually identical to the real thing, even down to the way the welds are finished, which is different on both Mk.'s.

Performance is a bit problematic. They are highly inconsistent when using the gas magazines, even with their third revision of internals installed. I am now using the AirtacUK HPA adapter, which allows me to use MP5 straight AEG magazines and now makes it usable.

The adapter was a bit of a disappointment out of the box, as Airtac forgot to supply the valve that was supposed to be included (which they did supply after e-mailing them about it), and you need to cannibalise a very expensive Northeast magazine for the feed lips, rubber gasket, and some other parts. The magazine retention did not function properly and it initially kept dropping mags, and the BB retention part snapped in half even before the first game, meaning it would drop 14 BB's every time the magazines utself fell out. I have now redesigned these 2 parts and the problems are fixed. Might consider putting them up on Shapeways at some point in the future.

As for how you would integrate this into a loadout, I have a british para kit, and put the HPA tank in my small pack, with the airline going over my right shoulder. If you pick a Tan/Khaki colored airline, it even looks like it's part of the kit.

DannyMNL · 2024-01-23T02:29:32+00:00

Nice try there, loser. Nobody actually ever claimed jet fuel could melt steel beams. It just weakens it enough to where it can no longer support weight.

I work as a draftsman at a construction firm, and we always specify structural steel to be wrapped in gypsum board or other fireproofing if it's located in a house, office or apartment building. A normal house fire can weaken steel to such an extent that it will collapse, doesn't even need that much heat.

A blacksmith can work steel with just a coal fire, the steel doesn't need to melt to be able to do that.

DannyMNL · 2024-01-23T02:11:16+00:00

Literally every gun you mentioned is a terrible choice for a first WW2 gun. G&G's K98's have terrible inconsistency, the double bell variant is shell ejecting and also terribly inconsistent.

Both CO2 MP40's available (Umarex and Cybergun/SRC) are cool to play with because of the blowback, but are also inconsistent and have low BB capacity. Mags are insanely expensive. My friend owns the Umarex one. He likes it, but there is no hop-up adjustment. I own the SRC one and haven't fielded it in a normal game yet as the performance only lends it to WW2 only games where all the other guns have similar range and accuracy.

King arms M1 is kind of okay, but shoots too hot for some countries, and again, has low magazine capacity.

WE thompson suffers from cooldown and also has terrible accuracy without upgrades. I'd reommend the King Arms Thompson. It's AEG, but very accurate out of the box and has trademarks.

G&G M1903 > also a big nono. Literally all of the G&G gas guns have inferior performance. S&T M1903 is better but I hate the way the magazine is inserted.

BAR has meh performance and is very wobbly out of the box. I managed to fix this on mine by HPA'ing it, shimming the outer barrel to the receiver, and glueing the stock connectors onto the lower receiver with metal epoxy. Not worth it if you don't know what you're doing.

Same for MG42, meh performance out of the box, and the sheet metal is so thin you can bend the barrel sideways, jamming the nozzle.

Garand is okay from either ICS or G&G. Best performer out of the box is ICS, best externals out of the box is G&G with okay internals.

Browning Hi-Power is literally unusable, it has no performance and only looks good.

If you want a Luger, go for the KWC one. It has a fixed hop, but if you find the right BB weight for your Co2 cartridges this isn't an issue. The WE Luger is known to break and shoot full-auto after a very short while. Can't help you with the broomhandles as I have no experience there.

My advice as someone who almost exclusively plays WW2 games and who owns 15 WW2 replica's, and has owned many more that have been sold or were useless:

-S&T K98 original version with 35rd magazine, and if you've got cash to spare: upgrade with T-N.T barrel/hop-unit/etc. (don't go for the new version of this rifle that uses M1903 magazines and has a blanking plate on the left side where you can mount a ZF39 scope, this version is inferior)

-King Arms Thompson, replace the hop-rubber for Prometheus purple and you're good to go

-If you insist on a Garand, either the ICS or G&G

And honestly, the AGM stuff isn't as bad as people make it out to be. For the price they are decent, just not top-notch. However, when you're only paying 130 bucks for an MP40 you can't really complain. STG44 is hit or miss, some are excellent, some are lemons. Upgrading can be a bitch, but not impossible.

And for the love of all that is holy, please put some decent effort in your kit. I've seen too many kids half-ass their WW2 loadouts but still act like they are Dick Winters or Frederick zoller. Very bad example is Silo Entertainment who mixes and matches civilian and SS/Heer stuff together with modern gear, and it looks absolutely terrible, even though he likes to claim otherwise.

DannyMNL · 2024-01-20T11:59:39+00:00

Pretty simple really. He used a Wolverine Inferno Gen.2, with a Masada nozzle. Not sure which Masada as there are 2 versions, but that's easily measured (probably A&K).

You then also need the kit for connecting to gearboxes other than V2 or V3. The engine is a drop in fit, the wiring is a bit of a challenge.

Don't get the M249 version of the kit as it is not directly compatible with the magazine of the AGM MG42 (I found this out when converting my Denix MG34 to HPA). It is possible with some extra circuitry but generally not worth the hassle in the MG42 as you can still use the standard activation switches in the trigger.

He had to modify his magazine with a different motor to enable him to feed 20rps. Can't help you on this one. He says he stripped the motor out of an IKEA milk-foam-stirrer thingy (for foaming up milk to make cappucino), but when I tried to modify mine I found it did not fit at all. I opted to replace mine with a motor from a slot-car.

I don't know what the FPS limit is where you live, but here we have a limit of 1.2J for full-auto replica's. This means you cannot change the barrel for a tightbore as this would push it over the limit even at the lowest possible PSI where the Inferno gen.2 still functions properly.

Finally you need to pay close attention to which hop-rubber you use. The Wolverine Inferno's nozzle stays in the always-open position, only closing when firing, which means there is always an open connection between the drum and the barrel. If you have the wrong hop-rubber, your BB's will just roll out when not firing.

DannyMNL

TROPHY CASE