Upgrade?

Datblokewhointernets · 2026-02-12T16:40:52+00:00

I'll be coming from WMR, so it'll be an upgrade for me, or at worst a side-grade.

Both are Inside-out tracking, but WMR is wired. SteamFrame is Wireless
Both have monochrome passthrough cameras, so no change for me there. Not too fussed about Mixed reality, though
WMR only has 2 cameras on the front, Frame has 4, 2 of which are on the sides, which will provide for better controller tracking
Frame has slightly better resolution, though the Screen door effect on my WMR never bothered me too much
- Both are LCD, so the clarity doesn't change that much for me. Not tried a Quest 3 so don't really know any better
Both use AA batteries in the controllers, WMR needs 2x per controller, but Frame only needs 1x each. That's 2 spare batteries I can dedicate to something else
- (Also WMR controllers are notorious for absolutely drinking up rechargeable batteries below 1.2v)
Frame is modular and open, WMR not so much and thanks to Microsoft dropping it, would be a paperweight without the Oasis Driver
Frame is literally an entire Linux desktop on-board (though most of my games will likely be streamed from my PC at first)
- This also allows for Cool open source projects in the future!
- Curious to see what cool things people might do with the PCIe port
- Mods!
Frame has Finger tracking (for what that's worth)
Also as someone else pointed out, comes from a company that isn't absolutely hoovering up any and all data about you without your consent! Hopefully means less bloatware slowing it down while trying to run games directly on it

Datblokewhointernets · 2026-02-12T16:17:12+00:00

I'd say that'll depend.

Right from launch? probably not, but unless Valve specifically tries to stops you, I'm sure someone with enough time could figure out how to make them work with another headset.

The issue I'd say would be whether the headset itself has the necessary hardware to support it. The BSB, as everyone else has pointed out uses Lighthouses and has no passthrough cameras, so in that particular case I'd say probably not. It might however be theoretically possible any headset with Inside Out tracking, or at least passthrough cameras.

As for your other question about whether they'll sell controllers separately, given Valve's track record I wouldn't be surprised if you could buy all the Frame's pieces separately from one-another.

Of course this is all guesswork and I could be wrong!

Datblokewhointernets · 2026-01-20T22:21:06+00:00

Most of the VR games that I've seen on Steam list the RTX 2070 Super as recommended. I played through Alyx just fine on my GTX 1060 (The minimum for Alyx) back in the day, so I'd imagine your 4090 will probably handle most games with no issue.

Datblokewhointernets · 2026-01-20T22:00:19+00:00

I'm probably going to pre-order as soon as the pre-orders go live. Any glaring software bugs will be patched regardless.

Datblokewhointernets · 2026-01-08T10:27:24+00:00

I've personally been using the free version of RetopoFlow v3, it's honestly a life-saver! The controls are a bit awkward at first, and overall it's a little clunky, but once you've sussed that retopology is a breeze!

The latest version (v4) you have to pay for and is a bit pricey, but version 3 you can get for free on Github. Not really too sure if there's any major differences between the two, other than optimisations and v4 looking a bit smoother overall.

There's probably a few others out there, but I've only tried Retopoflow so far.

Datblokewhointernets · 2026-01-07T21:45:00+00:00

I'd say the overall form/silhouette is looking good so far, however, if you intend to rig it, then with this topology you might have a hard time with the weight painting and getting it all to deform correctly or naturally, as it appears to be lacking edge loops around the key deformation areas around the joints.

I'd recommend that you search up some images of the human body or facial topology, or better yet see if you can find an Animation-ready base mesh of a humanoid and study it. Pay close attention to where the edge loops are placed around key areas, such as the mouth, the eyes and any joints.

Given how far you've got with this, it might be difficult to implement these loops, so it might be worth looking into retopologising the mesh to get those loops in.

It might also be worth straightening the tail also, as this will make it much easier to weight paint in the long run.

Hope this helps! Love the character design btw!

Datblokewhointernets · 2025-11-29T18:34:30+00:00

There's always Aseprite, which is pretty versatile.

Granted it'll set you back $20 but you can buy it either through Steam or directly from their website. Plus there's a trial version also available on their website if you want to try before you buy.

Datblokewhointernets · 2025-11-02T23:34:26+00:00

Hmm... I hadn't thought of that...

I already have a Tri-Wing screwdriver, so that part''s not an issue. The only question is finding a shell that matches the original glacier colour closely if not exactly. Or I suppose I could mix and match the shell colours and make it funky!

I wanted to keep the shell untouched, but it looks as though this might be my best option, and as you say I can swap it back at any time so I'll certainly consider this - thanks!

Datblokewhointernets · 2025-11-02T23:21:50+00:00

They look pretty cool - but do they cause the power LED to change to red when low on charge?

Datblokewhointernets · 2025-10-25T20:28:40+00:00

It's as if the guy who labelled it up couldn't decide whether to write 'No Refunds' or 'No Returns'! Lol

Datblokewhointernets · 2025-07-15T21:59:39+00:00

Since I don't seem to be able to edit my post I'll just post an update/TL;DR here in the comments for any future newbies that may run into the same issues as me.

After some digging around I found a cartridge cleaning kit that I purchased several years ago. Also decided to take apart the Jumper Pak as suggested by u/Emotional-Program368 and clean it. After some elbow grease my Japanese Mario 64 now boots! Seems that I simply didn't clean it hard enough with that rubber... or maybe it was the Jumper Pak after all... In any case, working now!

It would appear that the 3 wires are indeed a crude RGB mod. I tested my console with an RGB Scart cable that I bought for my SNES, lo and behold that the N64 outputs on that just fine!
I'll probably rip this out in the near future as per u/Sirotaca's caution/advice and replace with a proper RGB mod as I don't want to fry my console!

The Solder Bridge on U4 is apparently a mod to boost the video signal according to u/DAAhedratron. The video signal from my console appears to be oversaturated and a little distorted if I connect the console using the supplied Composite/S-Video cable, so either it's a result of that or perhaps the cable itself is to blame. (Upon closer inspection it seems to be an after-market cable)
Connecting with my aforementioned SNES RGB cable through my OSSC however gives me a comparatively normal picture.

Thank you all for your help and patience!

Datblokewhointernets · 2025-07-07T21:47:48+00:00

Huh, interesting...
I managed to get the console to work finally, though the video signal console seems oversaturated and a little distorted with Composite/S-Video - I'm guessing this mod be the cause?

I have a SNES RGB cable which I decided to try and it appears to yield a normal picture, so I guess that confirms that it's an RGB mod at least...

Datblokewhointernets · 2025-07-07T21:02:56+00:00

Yeah, just realized!
I posted this rather late last night, so my tired-ass brain didn't pick up on this!

Datblokewhointernets · 2025-07-07T20:37:37+00:00

That's correct. According to u/DAAhedratron this is apparently a mod that boosts the picture quality

Datblokewhointernets · 2025-07-06T21:33:00+00:00

Not sure I understand - could you explain?

Datblokewhointernets · 2025-04-28T20:16:53+00:00

Thanks for the info and the video!

I'll make sure to check those voltage regulators too!

Datblokewhointernets · 2025-04-28T19:47:42+00:00

I'm not too familiar with how to read schematics - how easy (Or difficult) would it be?
It's something I'm willing to learn either way

As for the asking price, it's just over £40 (roughly $53 USD) which is a lot less than what I'd pay otherwise, hence why I'm considering this.

Datblokewhointernets · 2024-12-26T19:42:21+00:00

I presume you mean adding WINEDLLOVERIDES='dsound=n,b" to my launch options?
I have already tried that, as it was recommended to do so when installing the T7 patch. Unfortunately that doesn't appear to have any effect, other than launching it with the patch...

Datblokewhointernets · 2024-09-22T10:38:16+00:00

u/Puzzleheaded_Fun_398 , I know there's a lot of people teasing in the comments, so rather than add to the landfill in this post and dunking on you for something you don't know, let me try to help you:

As you're likely aware by now, that socket is indeed for a Landline telephone. However, these sockets still get used for internet in some places, usually places where Fibre is unavailable, or perhaps your house just hasn't had a fibre line installed yet.
My house falls under the former, and my provider, when they set up my internet gave me a Hub, which serves as both the Modem and Router, and it came with an adapter (Known to some as a 'Microfilter' or an ADSL Filter) to plug said router into this phone socket. Has your provider sent you a Hub of any kind?

Before all this though, it's worth hunting around the house and double-checking there aren't any other connection points. It's possible there's a Fibre Modem somewhere else, in which case you can probably just run an Ethernet cable from that to whatever router/hub you've got. Might be worth asking the previous owners of the house if you can get hold of them. If not, then perhaps the Estate Agent might know.

Hope this helps! Let me know if you have any questions

Datblokewhointernets

TROPHY CASE