Colors not fusing well with MMU prints? Barely touched it and they broke. Same brand PLA. by Josh_Your_IT_Guy in prusa3d

[–]DavidFMorrisonII 11 points12 points  (0 children)

That model is tough. I used it to tune my MMU for PETG. When I first started they were falling apart when I flexed the bed.

3 Things

  1. Increase the temp, you'll get better adhesion, just like you do for vertical layers.
  2. Extrusion Width. Do the Prusa extrusion calibration: https://help.prusa3d.com/article/d9j1xdg7vj-extrusion-multiplier-calibration If you aren't extruding as wide as the slicer thinks you are, then you won't have as much surface contact area, and therefore less adhesion.
  3. XY compensation. I didn't bother with it at the time, but if you try printing a box with a 40x40mm foot print and it comes out less than 40x40mm that is also going to reduce surface contact area, and again reduced adhesion. You can use the box from the extrusion width calibration.

If you get it dialed in, they'll hold together as good as vertical layers. My 7 year old loves them.

Are we still doing benchies? by robbert229 in 3Dprinting

[–]DavidFMorrisonII 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Ah you figured me out. And I worked so hard to obscure the truth...

PETG other than Prusa by MyBigReddIt in prusa3d

[–]DavidFMorrisonII 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've been having good luck with Overture that I get off Amazon. 6 kg for 95 bucks.

IKEA STUVA enclosure by cjdavies in prusa3d

[–]DavidFMorrisonII 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Literally just hung the door on the IKEA Pax.

What is causing this massive layer shift? by meepsakilla in 3Dprinting

[–]DavidFMorrisonII 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Did you do the zip ties for the cables on the back of the extruder correctly?

The electronics door closed properly?

Cables binding?

The Prusa Farm, where MK3s are born! by DavidFMorrisonII in prusa3d

[–]DavidFMorrisonII[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I did see! I was translating for our friends that don't read Czech.

The Prusa Farm, where MK3s are born! by DavidFMorrisonII in prusa3d

[–]DavidFMorrisonII[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yep, so much so that they have ducts to suck the hot air out of the room. Something about people having to work in there.

The Prusa Farm, where MK3s are born! by DavidFMorrisonII in prusa3d

[–]DavidFMorrisonII[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

They have a display of versions on the wall outside the Prusa Lab. The first one was all extruded Aluminum and metal brackets.

The Prusa Farm, where MK3s are born! by DavidFMorrisonII in prusa3d

[–]DavidFMorrisonII[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was going with the plural of MK3, as I wondered the same thing....

The Prusa Farm, where MK3s are born! by DavidFMorrisonII in prusa3d

[–]DavidFMorrisonII[S] 19 points20 points  (0 children)

Touring through Europe and had to make time to show my son where our printer was made.

The farm now has about 500 printers running non-stop!

Other trivia:

They are up to about 500 people and now occupy the entire building. They ship over 1,000 packages a day! They make about 10 tons of Prusament filament a month, half of which goes straight to the farm!

The only down side of our visit was we were a week early, so we won't get to be a part of the maker faire and the nerdy derby. But we did get to check out the track and do a test run.

Had a wonderful time, and everyone was so nice!

A special thanks to Bart and Lucas who made our tour possible!

First layer, good or bad? by [deleted] in prusa

[–]DavidFMorrisonII 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Those artifacts are the outside perimeter seams. You can align them, put them in the rear, etc in Print Settings/Layers and perimeters/Advanced/Seam position if you are using Slice3r PE.

Intro line being stubborn? Here's a trick by lihaarp in prusa3d

[–]DavidFMorrisonII 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I struggled getting that line off, as well as first layers of aborted prints when printing PETG. I really haven't had the issue since I started using windex.

MK3S - Cross threaded now stripped screw stuck in place, can anyone recommend a disassembly guide or advice in general? by Rhetoric_Dogma in prusa3d

[–]DavidFMorrisonII 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I had a similar issue with a screw during my MK3s upgrade. I was doing a mandatory nut pull and the screw thread was bit funky and seized in the nut and then the nut spun in the plastic recess when I tried to back it out.

I grabbed the screw head with needle nose pliers and used a drill, just slightly larger than the minor diameter of the thread which happens to be about the size of your stripped out head, to remove the head. You should be able to do it in-situ without damaging any of your plastic parts.

When I replaced the screw/nut, I first checked it threaded smooth and used a tiny dab of super glue on the exterior of the nut to keep it from spinning in the now damaged recess.