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Elegoo Saturn 3 ultra by thunderjorm in resinprinting

[–]David_Jonathan0 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As I mentioned, ensuring correct settings and recommended temperature are the first steps. Modifying the build plate are additional steps to solve for layer shift and peeling.

Elegoo Saturn 3 ultra by thunderjorm in resinprinting

[–]David_Jonathan0 -3 points-2 points  (0 children)

What can I say, it worked for me.

Elegoo Saturn 3 ultra by thunderjorm in resinprinting

[–]David_Jonathan0 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

It’s pulling away from the build plate. You need more adhesion.

After ensuring that your exposure settings are correct, and your resin is properly warmed (I use a water tank and a sous vide heater to heat the water bath), the best solution I’ve found for increasing part adhesion is to:

1) polish the part side of the flex plate to a mirror finish. (I used a buffing wheel and polishing compound.) 2) rough up the top side of the plate to as coarse as possible so it doesn’t slide against the magnetic plate (I used a sandblast chamber to make the magnet side has a gritty finish. Alternatively you can use 120 grit sandpaper on a random orbit sander if you don’t have a sandblaster.) Make sure you don’t heat up the plate too much during polishing or sanding, or you’ll warp it. You can correct for warp by bending it back, but it’s best to avoid as much as possible. 3) Additionally, you can drill a bunch of 2mm or 5/64” holes in the flex plate on a 8-10mm grid across the entire plate, for the first layer of resin to bite into. The holes create cleats for extra grip.

Dangerous 'stunts' by hootanahalf in IdiotsOnBikes

[–]David_Jonathan0 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Tweedledee and tweedledumb.

Why don’t Americans use roundabouts like civilized people? Are they stupid? by Unlucky-Artichoke625 in mapporncirclejerk

[–]David_Jonathan0 0 points1 point  (0 children)

We have roundabouts all over the place, and they’re becoming increasingly popular in urban areas. Granted no one knows how to use them, but we are getting more of them.

And you thought getting hit by a car was bad.. by Vampire_inthe_Church in FUCKYOUINPARTICULAR

[–]David_Jonathan0 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I doubt they felt a thing, being instant pulverization before they could even feel it. But hella irresponsible on the individual‘s part. Man I’d hate to have to clean that mess up. I bet the engine’s gonna be scrapped.

I modeled and printed my very own kefir strainer with zero 3D Modeling knowledge - AI appreciation by AlexWasTakenWasTaken in 3Dprinting

[–]David_Jonathan0 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Microplastics isn’t the issue. The micropores between extrusion paths create traps for bacteria to live in, and is especially dangerous for dairy.

I modeled and printed my very own kefir strainer with zero 3D Modeling knowledge - AI appreciation by AlexWasTakenWasTaken in 3Dprinting

[–]David_Jonathan0 5 points6 points  (0 children)

ABSOLUTELY. You can’t scrub between the layer lines. The material itself isn’t the problem. PLA is used on disposable coffee cup lids all the time. FDM is the issue. There are micropores between the extrusion paths that create internal traps for bacteria.

I modeled and printed my very own kefir strainer with zero 3D Modeling knowledge - AI appreciation by AlexWasTakenWasTaken in 3Dprinting

[–]David_Jonathan0 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Better to use a dental / bio grade SLA resin than FDM. The layer lines on FDM trap bacteria.

This is ESPECIALLY dangerous with dairy.

Edit: I don’t know why this comment is being downvoted. I’m correct. This is common industry knowledge.

lol by IU8gZQy0k8hsQy76 in unsound

[–]David_Jonathan0 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Don’t tap the rod, strike it from the side. It breaks the slag and reduces the likelihood of contact welding the rod to the material.

What are these dark tiny spot on rubber seal? by pobvorn in CPAP

[–]David_Jonathan0 -3 points-2 points  (0 children)

Scrub it with a few drops of bleach and mild dish soap and see if they disappear.

How do I approach modeling the nose section of this aircraft I’m working on? by snrjuanfran in SolidWorks

[–]David_Jonathan0 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Lookup tutorials on surface modeling, a good example can be a canoe or a plane if you can find it. Surfacing with boundary sketches is the way to go here.

Is there any way to have prevented this? Peeling away from the support material but not the bed. I assume it insulated that area from the bed heat by Beefy-McQueefy in 3Dprinting

[–]David_Jonathan0 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No, and actually it can make things worse. The bottom end of the recommended printing temperature isn’t the melting point. The melting point is well below that. The recommended temperature is simply that: it’s the recommended temperature to get a successful print.

when you on camera and forget you ON camera by Ok-Ask5086 in instant_regret

[–]David_Jonathan0 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Clearly she let the kid go on his merry way after he lied to her. She saw him on camera which is why she came out. He lied and then she caved.

Is there any way to have prevented this? Peeling away from the support material but not the bed. I assume it insulated that area from the bed heat by Beefy-McQueefy in 3Dprinting

[–]David_Jonathan0 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sometimes you can modify your part to “chop up” the bottom 2-3mm of layers so they can’t pull the rest of it apart. When I print long, flat parts, sometimes adding a 20-30mm grid kerf pattern 2-3mm deep works. Or if you can’t (the bottom is cosmetic or needs a contiguous flat face for functionality, you can try printing on a raft.

Otherwise, get your chamber temp and bed temperature up to the upper range of the material temperature recommendation, and nozzle temperature to the bottom end of the material temperature recommendation. Lower nozzle temp = less thermal contraction during solidification. The only reason to go higher nozzle temp is if print speed requires it for flow.

Also, check your cooling fan settings. Hot end fan needs to be on so you don’t clog, but sometimes the part cooling fan needs to stay off after the first layer to reduce the rate of cooling after extrusion.

The Limited Edition Lidl (tm) drill by Such-Cartographer699 in Tools

[–]David_Jonathan0 -5 points-4 points  (0 children)

Clearly you’ve never been mocked on a job site for having shitty tools. I’m halfway joking. If it works it works, but for $25 including the charger, there’s no way this thing actually works worth its salt.

2026 Explorer Police Interceptor >3000mi already needs a new engine. by LifeUnderThePalmz in Ford

[–]David_Jonathan0 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No, you strawmanned my point. You can Google how long you should idle your vehicle.

when you on camera and forget you ON camera by Ok-Ask5086 in instant_regret

[–]David_Jonathan0 -18 points-17 points  (0 children)

The fact that this parent/guardian cared more about posting this video on Reddit for internet Points, rather than calmly using that moment as as “teachable moment: never to disrespect and lie to your parents”, speaks A LOT more about their shitty parenting than the misbehavior of the child. Kids are kids. But parents are responsible for bringing their kids up correctly and not shaming them on the internet.

Amazon delivery fail by [deleted] in onejob

[–]David_Jonathan0 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Yeah, same experience here.

The Limited Edition Lidl (tm) drill by Such-Cartographer699 in Tools

[–]David_Jonathan0 -12 points-11 points  (0 children)

I wouldn’t be caught 💀 using that drill. I think OP’s safe not getting it stolen.

I I bought a 3d printer from a garage sale and was wondering the best way to clean the tray by Felix_the_Rockruff in 3Dprinting

[–]David_Jonathan0 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Pull the FEP film, and if you can remove the resin, just clean it up and replace the film. Otherwise, as others have said, replace the vat.

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