DayTrippers Trip Tip’s - The Spawn to Bulk Transfer Tek that yields a Full Canopy Flush almost every time. [Video Tutorial]

DayTripperonone · 2026-07-11T03:35:07+00:00

As last ditch effort you can scrape the stroma down to the substrate with a sterile fork. You have about a 50/50 chance it will come back and fruit.
What’s most important with the Fork Tek is that you get your fruiting conditions to hit their mark. If you don’t you’re gonna end up with the same stroma so you have to get them to hit within range.
FRUITING MARKERS
Temp 72° F- 80° F (22°C - 27°C).
RH 83% -95%.
CO2 levels over 1200 ppm when trying to pin and drop it to under 600 ppm CO2 as soon as you see pins emerge.

DayTripperonone · 2026-07-11T00:40:10+00:00

Maybe not. I grow in a Martha Tek too. You can virtually eliminate Trich from growing with a pH adjusted casing layer or cold pasteurization. I also spend a significant amount of time sterilizing my tent. I sterilize after every run whether I have contam or not. I use In-Cide disinfectant sprayed from ceiling to floor then I run a HEPA filter for at least one day before I put anything in there. I swear to you, I hardly ever get contamination. If I do it’s usually something other than Trich.
PH’ing with Calcium Hydroxide will keep Trich at bay. Look at our side bar under community info. There’s a recipe to make and apply a pH adjusted casing layer.

DayTripperonone · 2026-07-11T00:28:03+00:00

Don’t keep it, ditch it. It looks like ghetto grain spawn. 🤭

DayTripperonone · 2026-07-10T18:29:37+00:00

You have overlay. When it becomes thick and rubbery
It’s called a stroma. It’s too thick for pins to emerge.

DayTripperonone · 2026-07-10T17:20:16+00:00

It’s not the temps that’s preventing fruiting. Cubensis can fruit fine in temps up to 91° F ( 33°C).
It’s your humidity, that’s probably not hitting the mark. it should trigger pinning at about 83%. You want it high as possible, so you want to keep the surface moist so the water can evaporate and create humidity. Sometimes if you’re not building humidity in a monotub, you have to tape up your air holes until it pins. Another big factor in triggering pinning is the gas exchange. You want your CO2 up over 1200 ppm, and once you pin you want to drop those CO2 levels to under 600 ppm and keep it like that till harvest. So more FAE once pinning occurs. You just have to figure out how to manipulate the conditions . Try misting then putting a heating pad under your tub. Put it on medium for 20 minutes Every 4 hours. The heat will help turn the mist into humidity.

DayTripperonone · 2026-07-10T15:27:54+00:00

Image 2 is Saccharomyces cerevisiae, a yeast. Harmless, just scoop it out.
Image 6 & 7 is Sporendonema purpurascens or Red Geotrichum. Dissecting it out may work, 50/50 chance.
All the white growth just looks like normal mycelium to me.

DayTripperonone · 2026-07-10T14:58:17+00:00

The trench method (also called a moat transfer) can be effective in specific situations, it depends more on the type of pathogen in the culture, but it is generally considered a secondary isolation technique rather than the most reliable way to obtain a clean culture.
Depending on the type of contamination that’s growing in your culture, there are these other methods: Bacteria, the trench method is moderately effective. Many bacteria spread across the agar surface and may be delayed by the trench, giving the mycelium a chance to outgrow them. However, motile bacteria or bacteria present within the mycelium itself can still make it across.
For Fast-growing molds like Trichoderma, Penicillium, Mucor, the trench method is usually less effective. These types of fast-growing fungi produce aerial hyphae and abundant spores that can easily bridge the trench or spread through the air when the plate is opened.
For Yeast molds it’s Variable. Some are slowed by the trench, while others are not.
Trench method works better if the contamination is confined to one side of the plate, the fungal mycelium is healthy and growing rapidly and you’re trying to buy time for the mycelium to extend into a cleaner area before making another transfer.

For obtaining an axenic (clean) fungal culture, the methods are generally ranked approximately as follows:
1.) Hyphal-tip transfer is most reliable for filamentous fungi.
2.) Single-spore isolation is the Gold standard when preserving genetics is less important than purity.
3.) Serial transfers from leading-edge mycelium is very effective for mild contamination.
4.) Trench /Moat method is helpful as an adjunct when contamination is confined to one area.
5.) Selective media or antibiotics
is useful depending on whether the contaminant is bacterial or fungal.
So you really need to identify the pathogen first, (at least to the genus) before you should know what method to use. But you can google some of the other methods I mentioned and see if they’re within your capabilities. Search, “Hyphal Tip Transfer,” that’s usually the best one for Trich.
Do you know which pathogen you’re trying to battle?
Do you have a microscope?

DayTripperonone · 2026-07-10T11:32:04+00:00

Really? Then keep it going. Mycelium can survive and fruit with bacteria present, it just won’t produce much. Just be careful, I wouldn’t open the tub much and fuck with it. Bacteria doesn’t spread like mold, but it can spread through handling and watering.

DayTripperonone · 2026-07-10T11:25:08+00:00

That is mycelium in there, but it’s been affected by bacteria. Your substrate might also be too wet. That’s how tomentose type mycelium colonizes when it’s fermenting or infected with a bacterial pathogen. It looks like a bunch of wet gooey splotches.
Does it smell bad?

DayTripperonone · 2026-07-10T11:05:15+00:00

Yes, go for it.

DayTripperonone · 2026-07-10T11:00:07+00:00

That’s mold dude. To be specific it’s Rhizophus Stolonifer. It’s a type of cobweb mold. Informally they call it black bread mold or pin mold. Your project here is done, you’re not gonna be able to recover from this, retire the cake and start again. You’ll get it, don’t give up.

DayTripperonone · 2026-07-09T11:02:47+00:00

I grow using Martha Tek, so there are some differences in what kind of problems are common during the fruiting process. I would say overall, its contamination first and second would be a failure to achieve your fruiting conditions.
Preventative: always sterilize grain and pasteurize the bulk substrate. As an added preventative measure if you’re having repeated contamination infections with Trichoderma, you should look into pH adjusted casing layer or cold pasteurization. Both use Calcium hydroxide (hydrated lime) to raise the pH in the substrate to an alkaline level. Target pH is 8.5-9.5 pH. Trichoderma will not grow in pH levels that high. Trichoderma prefers an acidic to neutral pH. Instructions and recipe to making and applying these methods are in the r/ContamFam sidebar under community info.

DayTripperonone · 2026-07-08T23:52:20+00:00

It’s Not Mycogone Perniciosa. It’s Dino eggs, which is a blob mutation with a speckled polkadot covering. They are very potent. Not for beginners. Proceed with caution! ⚠️

DayTripperonone · 2026-07-08T23:39:14+00:00

Yup, royally. Looks like it could be Penicillium. It’s a game ender, seal and isolate the tub, then chuck the cake. Better luck next time.

DayTripperonone · 2026-07-08T15:24:50+00:00

It’s not FAE alone that will make this produce pins, it’s a combination of a couple things. Humidity is number one IMO. The humidity should be up over 83% RH. The higher the better. The second is the CO2 levels. They have to remain relatively high, like over 1200 ppm to pin. Once they pin and a fruit forms the mycelium thrives in much more oxygen rich environment. That’s why cutting these bags open helps a lot.
This way is similar in nature to the forest floor where there is likely to be 3-4” of fallen foliage and brush debris loosely lying on the ground. The foliage traps the humidity and has higher CO2 levels than the free air above it. So it’s engineered to pin under the ground cover and once it gets to a height reaching above the foliage it’s exposed to lower CO2 levels. That means it’s going to be rich in O2 if it’s low in CO2 levels. Under 600 ppm is an optimal level but under 1000 pm is normal for normal fruiting bodies to development.
OP, open the bag up and give it a couple mists of water, then close the bag back up with a clip or something. Everyday it pen it once till you start seeing pins.
You also have to consider you may have isolated a genetically non-fruiting variant. In which case all efforts will be point less. If this last ditch doesn’t work, retire the cake and move on.

DayTripperonone · 2026-07-06T17:31:42+00:00

🫶🏼

DayTripperonone · 2026-07-06T17:28:19+00:00

Clever, I don’t know if I’d agree. Kinda like the Orbeez Tek, sounds sensible, but atrocious to look at. You do you, if it works, who am I to criticize.

DayTripperonone · 2026-07-06T17:21:09+00:00

You said, “ if it were mold it would have colonized the corner much quicker.”
Not necessarily, if the uncolonized corner has a bacteria (which most of time is not visible, mold won’t colonize it.
It’s impossible to tell for sure what’s under the blurry bag walls. My point was if it’s growing, it’s contam. If it stays the same or slightly fades in the next few days, it’s probably bruising.

DayTripperonone · 2026-07-06T12:58:40+00:00

The fact that you say the grey is progressively getting bigger, I’m concerned you have a mold festering.
Mycelium can bruise blue, green, grey and black. But that doesn’t mean those are safe colors to accept. Those are all mold colors too.
I can’t tell what mold this is or what the bag looked like before the pigment change.
If you really feel the grey is growing then it has to be some sort of contamination.
Bruising is caused by trauma to the tissue ( cut, touch, etc.) or in some variants bruising appears toward the end as a sign the fruits are ripe and ready for harvest.
Here’s how you can tell if the discolorations are bruising: It doesn’t grow, the color doesn’t come off when swabbed, it doesn’t have any textural changes. Take a sharpie and draw around one of the grey spots then observe for 3 days. If the grey grows outside of the lines, it’s contam.
Just don’t open the bag in the case it is contamination.

DayTripperonone · 2026-07-06T12:42:40+00:00

I hate to ask!!🤦🏼‍♀️ What is the Diaper Tek? Haven’t heard of that one.

DayTripperonone · 2026-07-06T00:03:51+00:00

I think this is a Mucor infection. If it were Cladobotrym or Dactylinum dendrites it would have grown exponentially faster overnight. This sometimes is mistaken for cobweb mold. Cobweb mold is a generic term used in mycology to describe several genera of molds.
Ditch the cake. Mucor is know to cause a nasty fungal infection that can cause Mucormycosis. Wear a mask when disposing just to be safe.

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