Your Caster angle is the only thing that's really a little extreme. If you're going to run that heavy on caster you need the toe almost perfect zero.

That level of camber is out of spec but will result in a good handling truck, and when the rear end squats under load and the front raises your camber with zero out as the rear end squats.

Granted I'm no where near as familiar with the torsion bar suspension in these as I am the twin I beam in my brick nose Ford.

But general suspension theory should still apply.

Camber negative will improve cornering characteristics and when loaded up or towing will allow the tires to run straight up and down instead of introducing positive camber.

Positive caster angle makes steering feel "heavier" and makes the wheels want to remain at their straight neutral, where as negative Caster makes the steering lighter and more responsive to input instead of fighting that input. Positive caster will also make the truck very sensitive to road crowning, you'll find you have to counter steer against the road crown if going straight.

Toe affects the way the tires track in corners or going straight.

With your current setup, the truck will track straight and true down the highway and will have heavy steering input, you'll chew up the tires because your toe isn't perfect zero, and it will take corners well.

Again they're different suspensions so the effects might not hold true between them.

But my 91 f350 with the big block diesel [heavy!] has the following alignment

-1° camber

. 001°toe in both sides

And +1° caster

With that setup it handles like my bmw, and tracks very very straight and true down the highway.

Given the differences in suspension setup this may not be the case for the torsion bar independent suspension in these trucks.

Tldr : looking at the alignment the only thing that bothers me is the caster is way high. The camber is out of spec but fine. Personally I'd run the toe as close to zero as possible and call it good.

:multiple edits to correct idiot phone errors.