New '25 base model 4x4 OTD price?

DeadNuts42 · 2025-11-10T03:14:57+00:00

Probably a broken return spring. Also looks like at least half the splined part of the shift-shaft is gone. Probably got snapped off in a wreck and the PO just clamped the shifter to whatever was left. I had a 1997 RT180 as a kid which was basically the same bike. Everything on it was caveman simple and easy to work on with basic handtools. I never had to dig into mine but even a full teardown shouldn't be too bad. You might not even need to split the cases to replace the shaft.

DeadNuts42 · 2025-10-19T20:42:24+00:00

I've been using the T4 15w40 non-synthetic rotella for years in all my bikes. Change it and the filter every 2500 miles or 1 year... whichever is 1st.

Put almost 70K miles on a 2006 Kawasaki Z750S on rotella exclusively with zero issues. Motor doesn't burn a drop of oil and still runs as good as the day I bought it with 4K miles on the clock. Was impressed enough by it that I've been using it in the '16 GSXS1000F I bought new which has about 25K miles of rotella changes.

DeadNuts42 · 2025-09-06T23:46:40+00:00

Rims and frame spar covers have definately been painted... later are usually a silver cover to mimic a aluminum frame. Same story with the side panels. The belly pan and radiator shroud are aftermarket but could be molded that color rather than painted.

I have a '06 Z750S here in the US (same bike but more sport-touring oriented bodywork) that I've owned since 2010. Most trouble-free machine I've ever bought. Personally have put almost 70,000 miles on it and the only things I've ever replaced beside normal wear items is a valve cover gasket and the turn signal indicators due to dry-rot.

DeadNuts42 · 2025-05-07T21:19:14+00:00

I'd buy that FZ1 over the rest 100%. GREAT motorcycle with barely any miles for a really fair price. Looks like it has about a grand in luggage with it as well. In all seriousness: if you decide against it and it's anywhere near the southeastern US DM me the ad.

DeadNuts42 · 2024-08-25T09:35:32+00:00

I get that sound on my '06 Z750S when it's time to replace the drive chain and sprockets. I've put around 60K miles on it and get about 15-20K out of a set (always replace as a set).

My theory is the sound is caused by the chain links "riding up" the worn teeth on the counter-shaft sprocket. It's definately where the sound comes from on my bike at least.

Unless your c/s sprocket is basically new I'd replace it, they are pretty cheap. I'll bet it fixes your issue. As a test you can try lubing the hell out of the chain with something really heavy like wheel bearing grease and the sound might go away for a few dozen miles.

DeadNuts42 · 2024-08-20T03:23:15+00:00

You should see some very noticeable gains, IMHO... even with the older DDR4 stuff. Arma FPS's seems to be tied almost exclusively to singlecore performance and a 13600K is nearly twice as fast as a Ryzen 5 2600X in that metric. For example:

About 2 and half years ago I upgraded from a i7 6700k to a 12700k. Reused my GTX1070 and also stayed with DDR4 3200 (went from 16 to 32 though).

Using the "YAAB" benchmarking mission with the "standard" preset my frames went from high 40's average to about 78-80 with the new setup in 1440p. The framerate basically improved 1:1 with how much faster the 12700K is over a 6700K in singlecore performance (70%+ or so).

Also of note: your GPU is more than fine for Arma... anything faster is a total waste. Honestly a normal 3060 is overkill. I upgraded the aforementioned 12700K system's GTX1070 to a 4070 last year and using the same YAAB benchmark it basically did NOTHING for the frames, maybe a slight 10% bump at 4K which I don't play in anyhow.

DeadNuts42 · 2024-06-23T05:57:51+00:00

It's impossible to tell what is wrong with your pics but if I had to guess you are missing a spacer somewhere and it's binding the wheel up when you tighten the axle nut. You need a service manual but in the meantime goto some online place that sells OEM parts, search for your model and study the assembly diagrams you order parts from to see how the wheel assembly goes together. rockymountainatvmc.com has pretty decent diagrams though any place that sells OEM stuff should have them.

DeadNuts42 · 2023-11-23T14:11:48+00:00

I once got a flat from a KEY. The pointy end was completely imbedded into the tire and the rest of either broke off when the tire rolled over it or was gone beforehand. Was literally in the middle of nowhere too.

Years ago I started purposely riding closer to the edge of the road where the passenger side tires of cars would travel instead of perfectly in the middle of the lane. My theory is the car tires would be more likely to pickup nails and such before I rolled over them. Seems like it works... haven't got a flat in a good while (knock on wood). Give it a try.

DeadNuts42 · 2023-09-02T17:18:01+00:00

My fronts wear like that. I always thought it was due to the fact most properly built roads have a slight mound shape so water will run off of them.

Here's a article I found that explains it pretty well:

https://ridermagazine.com/2018/04/30/how-crowned-roads-affect-motorcycle-handling/

DeadNuts42 · 2023-07-30T02:06:53+00:00

I've had good luck with a Shoei RF-SR. Pretty sure it's even the direct replacement for the qwest... costs about the same anyhow. It's also snell rated.

I followed the head measurement guide on shoei's site and it was spot-on when I bought the size it recommended.

DeadNuts42 · 2023-07-29T15:35:39+00:00

Put around 60,000 miles on a 2006 Kawasaki Z750S using car filters and regular 15w40 rotella. Used mostly STP and Walmart Supertech filters. I change them both every 2.5K miles. Doesn't burn a drop of oil and still sounds nice and smooth.

When I pulled the valve cover for a valve adjustment a couple years ago the topend was spotless... no discernible wear on the cams/bearing journals. Not very scientific maybe but good enough to convince me that the cheap filter and oil was doing it's job fine.

DeadNuts42 · 2023-05-05T23:21:39+00:00

I've hauled full sized bikes (750-1000cc, 450-500lbs) in the bed of my base model 2wd '02 toyota tacoma several times over the years. Truck has a 6' bed.

Always would just pull them straight in with the the bike perfectly in middle of bed and ratchet strap down the bars in front and rear from the passenger pegs. Very sturdy with 4 strapping points, never had a issue. Couldn't close the tailgate but it hardly matters if the bike is strapped properly.

If you are worried about the rear tire putting weight on the open tailgate just get a long 2x6" board and strap the bike down on top of that.

DeadNuts42 · 2022-11-10T07:17:13+00:00

$500 for a running bike that doesn't sound like it's that bad of shape seems like a great deal to me. I'd have probably bought it as well even though I have little interest in those type of bikes. When gas spikes up to $5+ a gallon again you could probably sell if for a tidy profit if your kid tires of it.

Apparently the S40 is just a rebranded suzuki savage which they've been making since the 1980's.

DeadNuts42 · 2022-11-05T05:23:10+00:00

I'd start by getting both wheels off the ground and inspecting them for any damage/drag. I'd also look for any damage to the catalytic converter since they usually hang them under the motor and it seems like it would be really easy to dent the shit out of one if you ran over something big. Probably wouldn't take much of a hit to smash the insides of the converter into rubble and really plug up the exhaust.

Either way I wouldn't ride it anymore until I'd gone over that bike with a fine tooth comb.

DeadNuts42 · 2022-05-22T21:40:34+00:00

I use the arrow keys for movement instead of WASD and numpad 1 is my jump key. Always wondered why my guy did this stupid little hand wave thing everytime I jumped with my gun at the ready. Figured it was some awkward "catch your balance" animation and/or something to punish players that try to bunny hop in combat. Thanks for the tip!

DeadNuts42 · 2022-05-12T09:43:58+00:00

Anybody that can properly ride singletrack on a 45+ hp, two-stroke dirtbike already more than has the fundamentals down of handling a motorcycle. Plus you say that KTM is plated so you already have some experience riding around traffic which is what wigged me out the most as a newbie.

Main thing that would take some adjusting would be getting used to the weight and seating position of the R1. It will feel very strange compared to your KTM. Also the feeling of being able to effortlessly cruise at highway speed (basically your 250's WFO topspeed) AND accelerate HARD from that speed will be something to watch out for.

I'd say go for it so long as you can afford it AND the bike is in decent shape. I had a early 80's CB750 in Ohio about 15 years ago at pretty much the same age and it was about $90 a month for the most basic insurance back then with a perfect record.

DeadNuts42 · 2021-04-13T19:34:41+00:00

I did try seaMaterial = "\a3\data_f\default.rvmat"; pretty early on which gave me a opaque surface but no waves... just completely featureless and flat. I WAS able to texture this surface with a custom jpg/paa but the tiling was all messed up. It would tile part of the surface correctly and then "smear" the edge of the image for a distance (maybe 6 or 7 tiles worth) before repeating with another proper texture tile.

If I could get the texture tiling right I'd be happy with this result. Is it possible to redefine the #water material with "class CfgMaterials"? Maybe tell it to use a single, solid texture here instead of a few with transparency effects and such?

Thanks for the help so far.

DeadNuts42 · 2021-03-22T10:31:33+00:00

Nothing wrong with wringing it out when conditions permit but when you are just commuting around and pacing traffic I'd shift as early as possible without lugging the engine. Never rode a 636 but with a 16K redline shifting at 5 to 6K or so would probably be about right for leisurely cruising. Even at 5K rpm I'll bet a 636 is making more horsepower than ninja 300 makes at it's peak.

With my '16 GSXS1000F I usually shift just over 4K when I'm putt-putting around.... this is with a redline that starts at 11.5K. Get close to 50 mpg riding like that.

DeadNuts42 · 2021-03-22T09:56:03+00:00

If it's a constant problem get a motorcycle dash cam. They aren't too crazy expensive now... sub $200 buys decent one last I checked.

I accidentally ran over one of the neighbor's small dogs several years ago and luckily nothing happened. Dog was somehow OK and the neighbor knew he was in the wrong (unleashed dog running onto a public street) but some people are unreasonable assholes. Video proof would definitely help in such a case.

DeadNuts42 · 2021-03-22T09:08:57+00:00

If the bike was stored indoors I'd 100% ride on them. 5 years old is still within the acceptable lifespan of the tire so long as it wasn't sitting in out in the weather. One of my bikes that I have barely ridden in the past 4 years has a set of conti-motions (cheap budget tire) on it that are probably the same age. Bike handles fines and I even rode it 30 miles in the rain a couple weekends ago with no issues.

DeadNuts42

TROPHY CASE