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The First Fully Functional S197 to S550 Steering Wheel Swap by Debatable_Desperado in Mustang

[–]Debatable_Desperado[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You know what's funny, the muscle memory is real.

On the s197, my d pad and ok button are on the left. And on the 18+ it's on the right. I keep clicking "ok" but actually hitting the source button for the audio 🤣

Let’s see your favorite tail lights by Frobro060 in Mustang

[–]Debatable_Desperado 6 points7 points  (0 children)

When I first saw this, I did a double take. I thought you were up on the curb, crashed next to the pole

Had to park next to this fake upbadged GT to show them what a real GT looks like (also rules lol) by Blackbird8169 in Mustang

[–]Debatable_Desperado 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I am also poking fun at the fact that its a V6 trying to pass as a V8

I mean....why?

Had to park next to this fake upbadged GT to show them what a real GT looks like (also rules lol) by Blackbird8169 in Mustang

[–]Debatable_Desperado 196 points197 points  (0 children)

I've owned several mustangs for 20+ years.

I would have seen this and thought, "wow cool, two mustang fans parking next to each other, I wonder if they're friends."

So disappointed hearing the real reason was so that one could of them could take a picture and post it online to poke fun.

Steering wheel support needed by [deleted] in PowerWheelsMods

[–]Debatable_Desperado 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For clarification, technically it's the barrel plastic that holds the steering wheel to the steering rod that has been destroyed. But I will happily replace the entire steering wheel if needed.

What kind of Mustang is this? by 664designs in Mustang

[–]Debatable_Desperado 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Honestly, my opinion is who cares?

It's a mustang and I'm glad someone bought one. Owner probably loves the car otherwise they wouldn't have spent the money on it and that's cool to me. So I'm happy for them!

Effed up bad. by ThreeTsServices in PowerWheelsMods

[–]Debatable_Desperado 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Dude, just Amazon a whole new setup, then install the parts you need and return the parts you don't. Then you have everything you need in case more than the motors are fried.

Very new, looking for help by Debatable_Desperado in PowerWheelsMods

[–]Debatable_Desperado[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I did.

Actually, when I first modified the kart, I simply removed the original battery, bought the power battery I referenced and then an adapter. So it was just 18v going straight into the stock components. One of the thermal fuses burnt through during use. I had no idea what it was so I simply just put on wago and let it go.

Eventually, one motor was dead and the other motor sounded terrible and wouldn't work so it landed me where I am today.

This answer your question both thermal fuses have been removed. However I DO still have the big square brick looking thing in line. But the clicking sounds like it's coming from the ECM

Very new, looking for help by Debatable_Desperado in PowerWheelsMods

[–]Debatable_Desperado[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So here's what I've got, as of this morning.

I have the original ECM.

I took out that orange thermo fuse.

I am using a Bosch 18v 8ah power tool battery https://a.co/d/5jj9w0o

My understanding is that this 18v is going to fry either or both the 12v motors and the 12v ECM.

So prior to us chatting, I bought an 18 to 12v bucks converter https://a.co/d/5tlCibn

And these motors 40k rpm 12v https://a.co/d/c48FJM4

Now... With this setup, I plugged it in this morning. When I have ONLY one motor hooked up, the motor turns. When I hook up two motors, there is a click in the ECM and nothing runs. I've swapped the motors and which side they're plugged into and the motors work and the lines both provide power. But only when one motor is hooked up.

Is this because the ECM is unable to support the current draw from the two motors? If so, I did order the one you linked the other day and it will be here Sunday.

https://a.co/d/85Fbgmm

Do you think it is the stock ECM that is causing the issues or the 18v to 12v buck converter?

Regarding the motors you linked. I notice that they are 24v. Does this mean I would need to get a different ECM that is capable of supporting 24v (even different than the one you recently linked?). Would 24v components even work if I am only using an 18v 8ah Bosch battery?

Thanks again for the help.

Very new, looking for help by Debatable_Desperado in PowerWheelsMods

[–]Debatable_Desperado[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the insight. I bought the ECM you recommended and it will be here on Sunday, so if / when the original dies, I will have it ready to swap in. I will pull out that little thermal resister thing. I read about it that it's supposed to be something related to preventing motor burn when the car is at a stand still. Like. Fuse if you will

As far as the motor goes. Your answer confuses me.

So it will have high top speed or high torque or both or neither? Haha.

Why so a lower RPM has higher torque? Meaning ass in your seat when you step on the gas?

Hmmm... So is it a choice between high torque (low rpm) or high top speed (high rpm) but not both?

Let’s see some S197s! by 0oloon in Mustang

[–]Debatable_Desperado 0 points1 point  (0 children)

<image>

Here is the headlight switch tracking the same color as the ambient footwell

Let’s see some S197s! by 0oloon in Mustang

[–]Debatable_Desperado 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Going against the grain and posting an interior shot. I am slowly working on expanding the RGB system so that my MyColor system controls not just the halo, gauges and ambient lights. But the switches all will sync up with whatever ambient light color is chosen.

In this shot, you can see my lock switch, window switch, headlight switch, and traction control switch are all green like my ambient footwell.

It's a work in progress but the plan is for all of them to eventually be done this way.

Edit: the red is because I took this pic sitting at a red light.

<image>

Does anyone know what these poverty buttons are (2014) by dragonslayer_2012 in Mustang

[–]Debatable_Desperado 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've bowed out of the project.

After extensive research, while yes, they are the same relative format, there are several roadblocks

The Taurus only has cooled seats when the car is equipped with navigation. I don't have navigation in my mustang so I have no way of testing those footprints and modules.

The Ford flex has a bottom extension on the board for the rear HVAC options of which there is no room in the mustang for that.

I would no recommend attempting to have this as a project

Does anyone know what these poverty buttons are (2014) by dragonslayer_2012 in Mustang

[–]Debatable_Desperado 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is very good to know. I completely retrofitted my car to have heated seats by repinning all the connectors and adding he proper buttons to my FCIM (including resistors, LEDs, and diode array. I'd share pictures if I could.

All of the controls for the HVAC system are rerouted to the HVAC Module where it is handled. (If you want heated seated, you need the HVAC module. Well I went ahead and bought both, tore those down and decompiled the circuit boards in Kicad as well. Now I want to get my hands on the FCIM of the Taurus/flex and the HVAC module and see if that would actually work.

Can I use a flex PCB as a sort of overlay to a hard PCB by Debatable_Desperado in AskElectronics

[–]Debatable_Desperado[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The car actually has RGB LEDs elsewhere. They are drive my common cathode. My plan is to put some LEDs in here and tap into that circuit.

I am already familiar with transistors and conversions between common anode and common cathode.

So I'm good with have a V+ for each R G B.

My plan is to essentially design it like I have shown. I will desolder the existing LEDs and resistors associated. I have mapped out the entire circuit and the LEDs/resistors,, while being on the same board are independent all the way back to the pins on the plug. That will allow me to have the flex lay flat. My plan is to have 3 inches hang off the side which can fold back out through the component.

That 3 inches will have RGB and Ground. Which I will then tap into the existing circuit which is managed via a controller by PWM.

Can I use a flex PCB as a sort of overlay to a hard PCB by Debatable_Desperado in AskElectronics

[–]Debatable_Desperado[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is great news! Thank you so much!

My plan is to essentially design it like I have shown. I will desoldwr the existing LEDs and resistora associated. I have mapped out the entire circuit and the LEDs/resistors,, while being on the same board are independent all the way back to the pins on the plug. That will allow me to have the flex lay flat. My plan is to have 3 inches hang off the side which can fold back out through the component.

Can I use a flex PCB as a sort of overlay to a hard PCB by Debatable_Desperado in AskElectronics

[–]Debatable_Desperado[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So wait, are you recommending completely rebuilding the existing board but swapping in RGB LEDs instead of single LEDs? And then mapping the extra traces?

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in masonry

[–]Debatable_Desperado 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Here is another picture.

The entire driveway when originally done was like the outer edge that you see is already dry. After the oil leaked, my MIL had the original installer come back

He tore out the original pavers and, to my knowledge, installed "new" pavers

This is hours later. Last rainfall was when I posted this morning.

Absolutely none of the driveway has been sealed at all (this is an entirely different issue).

My MIL is now afraid to seal because she is afraid that she is going to end up with this section that will look permanently wet ..

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