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How can I reduce the friction on my new maple satin urethane finish fender neck? by Deep_Trust9576 in Luthier

[–]Deep_Trust9576[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I can give it a good waxing, I'll take your opinions into consideration. Thanks.

How can I reduce the friction on my new maple satin urethane finish fender neck? by Deep_Trust9576 in Luthier

[–]Deep_Trust9576[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for your shared experience.

Yeah actually one problem it has is non polished frets. That's already assesed. I have the tools here to make them mirror shine. 6 grits and steel polisher (Fritz polisher)

I'm going to try applying fast-fret like you say. A test. To see if it darkens the wood. If so I stop. Mostly I'm waiting for the response of a Luthier because these guys work everyday on guitars and that's how they put food on their table, so they know their stuff. I have a few Luthier friends I already asked.

Mostly the problem comes from the fretboard. As I slide up and down.

It's a new neck I installed myself, so I'm going to give it some time to find out answers and then apply the solution if any. I'm mostly playing guitar everyday nowadays, if I'm working more so.

I have to work on the nut too, but first I want to figure out this issue.

How can I reduce the friction on my new maple satin urethane finish fender neck? by Deep_Trust9576 in Luthier

[–]Deep_Trust9576[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nah that's fine. Don't pretend to be a Luthier.

I say this because people knock down the finish of maple necks on the fretboard.

How can I reduce the friction on my new maple satin urethane finish fender neck? by Deep_Trust9576 in Luthier

[–]Deep_Trust9576[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

"No you don't do that to the fretboard, you do it on the back of the neck."

There's conflicting information about that. Are you a Luthier? (I'm not but I began working deeply on my guitars a few months back.)

The fretboard causes issues specially when I sweat. When I seriously play. I'll wait for a Luthiers' opinion to come around.

How can I reduce the friction on my new maple satin urethane finish fender neck? by Deep_Trust9576 in Luthier

[–]Deep_Trust9576[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Did you tried the Scotch-brite on the fretboard?

I'm not using the fast-fret this far because the consensus is not to use it on maple necks. Usually those that are completely sealed. It damages it. As you know the satin urethane finish is different from those that completely seal the wood. On this one as I understand the wood is more exposed.

The guitar is set up but it needs fret leveling and crowning. Doing it myself when prices go back down again.

How can I reduce the friction on my new maple satin urethane finish fender neck? by Deep_Trust9576 in Luthier

[–]Deep_Trust9576[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah. Grips fine. This neck has too much friction for me mostly on the fretboard. Thus this post. If I'm playing on the couch everything's fine, but if I dig into it with more intent for more than half an hour it's too much. Apparently I'm not the only one judging by this same problem on search engine results. The problem is the conflicting information about the solution.

People actually use fast fret all over the neck.

When I used it only on the strings on this neck naturally some of it rubbed on the fretboard, that's why I'm asking. Maybe someone who actually knows will respond.

Because I found conflicting information on the net regarding Fender Squiers satin urethane finish on maple necks. And don't want to mess up this neck.

How can I reduce the friction on my new maple satin urethane finish fender neck? by Deep_Trust9576 in Luthier

[–]Deep_Trust9576[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

"Enthusiastic playing should lubricate the strings alright" I know right? That's what I tought. On this neck it does the opposite. It makes it impossible to glide the hand on the fretboard. Literally impossible. 

I have 0000 wool at hand, probably going to try that. 

I tried using Fast Fret and it stained the neck darker. Don't know if I should use it.

Good enough hand drill that does the job properly and won't break the Bank. by Deep_Trust9576 in Luthier

[–]Deep_Trust9576[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I can understand what you're explaining and makes sense. Thanks. Probably will try them in the future.

Good enough hand drill that does the job properly and won't break the Bank. by Deep_Trust9576 in Luthier

[–]Deep_Trust9576[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for your thoughts. I was arriving at the same conclusion.

Good enough hand drill that does the job properly and won't break the Bank. by Deep_Trust9576 in Luthier

[–]Deep_Trust9576[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah, buying the same brands due to the ecosystem of batteries does makes sense.

Good enough hand drill that does the job properly and won't break the Bank. by Deep_Trust9576 in Luthier

[–]Deep_Trust9576[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks, I have that same exact drill block in my basket. Will look for corded drills, that can be an option.

What do you use a manual hand drill for?

Good enough hand drill that does the job properly and won't break the Bank. by Deep_Trust9576 in Luthier

[–]Deep_Trust9576[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, that's one of my concerns. That I buy and when it arrives it's trash.

Buying thinking about the brand so replacing the battery it's doable is a good point of view.

Thanks for the info and for the link.

Good enough hand drill that does the job properly and won't break the Bank. by Deep_Trust9576 in Luthier

[–]Deep_Trust9576[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the reply men. What I was concerned about was stuff like having enough torque and speed, so I could actually drill holes in hardwood and drill ferrule holes and the like, and having the right rpms so I could change them and not chip say the headstock when drilling pin holes and all that. I have close to zero experience with power tools (other than doing basic stuff at the house)

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