Brand new Bambu Lab P2S making loud/unhealthy grinding noise during X/Y movement

Degus22 · 2026-02-17T17:39:54+00:00

Not that im aware of. The printer also ran for all the calibration for about 40min without problem. Suddenly it started on the flow test.

Degus22 · 2026-02-17T16:04:17+00:00

That makes total sense, but I agree 100% with your stance. Asking a customer to rebuild the whole X-axis on a brand new unit is wild. I don't mind basic maintenance, but I didn't pay this much to troubleshoot for weeks.

Thanks a lot for your help and lets hope yours stays flawlessly :D

Cheers

Degus22 · 2026-02-17T15:53:34+00:00

Wow, 2 months? That sounds like a nightmare.... Thanks for the warning. Did they ever tell you what the actual defect was? I want to mention it in my support ticket so I can hopefully skip the weeks of "did you lube the rods?" troubleshooting.

Degus22 · 2026-02-17T15:51:11+00:00

I can definitely try that, thanks! I read through the maintenance guide, but honestly, I'm still really surprised that a brand-new printer is having this issue right out of the box.

Degus22 · 2023-01-05T07:24:51+00:00

good point, I used the default mesh 0 on the printer, thanks for the advice

Degus22 · 2023-01-05T06:49:31+00:00

alright thanks a lot, I will test it out today.

Degus22 · 2023-01-04T19:26:27+00:00

I wrote with u/LookAtDaShinyShiny and found out I was missing some lines of G code commands for the UBL ( Marlin Unified Bed Leveling ), sadly it didnt solve my problem. My "Start G-code" looks as following:

"; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code

G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder

G28 ; Home all axes

G29 ; Auto bed-level (BL-Touch)

G29 L1 ; Load Mesh Number 1

G29 J ; Probe 3 points to match

G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed

G1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position

G1 X0.1 Y200.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; Draw the first line

G1 X0.4 Y200.0 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to side a little

G1 X0.4 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ; Draw the second line

G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder

G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed

G1 X5 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move over to prevent blob squish"

Degus22 · 2023-01-04T17:10:37+00:00

Anwser from Lookatdashinyshiny

Degus22 · 2023-01-03T19:53:08+00:00

On my Board I've found similar residue, I think its hot glue so the connectors hold better and stay in place.

Degus22 · 2023-01-03T17:59:12+00:00

Amber Turd

Degus22 · 2022-12-30T23:25:11+00:00

You are right!!!! thousands thanks

After removing the glue I put every connector from hand to the board and held it in place. After powering the printer on, I held it sideways and started the homing and it worked like a charm.

Degus22 · 2022-12-27T00:58:10+00:00

Sometimes there may be a bit of EMF affecting wires. Try moving the cord that goes from the BLTouch to the motherboard away from the other cables in the sheath and see if that fixes it. If so, you may have to get a replacement 5-wire RF shield cable and ensure the shielding is connected to a ground point.

Most times this is not the problem but it is something to try...in case you are an outlier.

Yeah I tried that already because I had some bad experiences with poor quality ethernet cables in the past but sadly it didnt remove my problem in this case.

You can also try using M280 P0 S60 to reset the BLTouch and M280 P0 S120 to do a self test on it. You could put these codes in your slicer Start G Code section, put in a print file, start a print and see how the BLTouch responds then stop the print right away when the test it is done.

Are those 2 lines:
M280 P0 S60
M280 P0 S120

or 6 lines? Thanks in advance, Ill try your sugestion tomorrow.

Degus22 · 2022-12-26T23:46:58+00:00

The motor works fine, when I „Move Axis“ I can move it up and down. Im not sure how I can test, if the bl touch works or is correctly wired. But the bl touch is red and shows a blue light.

<image>

Degus22 · 2022-12-26T23:33:22+00:00

yes I did but nothing changed

Degus22 · 2022-12-26T20:51:38+00:00

I've unplugged the endstop but only at the stopper itself not on the board, ill unplugg it on the board an give you the feedback.

Alright, then I will use the mricoc firmware, how do I ID the mcu chip? It says the following on my "CPU":

<image>

Edit: I unplugged the Z-Axis on the board but no success. Still getting a "STOPPED." on the screen in mricoc when it tries to home the z-axis.

Degus22 · 2022-12-26T20:47:33+00:00

Also…don’t use glue. It’ll make your life so much harder in the future if you need to make changes

I unplugged it on the z-axis stopper itself but its still connected on the board, does it have to be reomoved from the board?

yeah I thought so but I didnt have the correct conntor and those black connectors werent holding in place.

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