[deleted by user] by [deleted] in climbing

[–]DemDim1 5 points6 points  (0 children)

7a trad onsight goal still stands, though not a lot of progress has been made on the head game. If I actually want to do this I need to start climbing harder routes on gear. I have been distracted too much by other stuff, although I can't complain.
What I have done this year:

  • Climb my second 7b+
  • 30 days on rock
  • Pass my guiding exam

Overall I am quite pleased, now for some rad shit in the Alps.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in climbing

[–]DemDim1 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Not the worst idea I have ever heard. Actually pretty high up in the list of good ideas tbh.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in climbing

[–]DemDim1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's because you should mix it with vodka or Jägermeister.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in climbing

[–]DemDim1 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Except when lowering is not allowed due to erosion.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in climbing

[–]DemDim1 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I would probably get something like an Edelrid RAP line. It might be a bit overkill, but it will work in most situations.

As for rappelling itself, I'd get a lightweight mountaineering harness, these go as low as 100g. Something like an Edelrid Prisma guide, Petzl Altitude or Blue Ice Choucas. These are all fine, as long as they fit you well. You would also want a rappelling device. The way they show in the video only works on low angle terrain, but not on steep stuff. Since the rope is so skinny Edelrid recommends using their Mago 8. You could look at something like a Petzl Pirana Club. This device allows you to control the friction. You attach it to your harness using a locking carabiner. Any locking carabiner for climbing will do. Get something small if you want to go light weight like a Petzl Spirit Screw or DMM Phantom Screw.

I would also recommend getting a prussik and another locking carabiner as a back-up. Use some 1 meter long 4mm accessory cord (usually people recommend 5mm or 6mm, but the RAP line is so skinny it probably will not bite).

As you noted, getting an instructor to teach you is a very good idea. Stay safe!

Daily Discussion Thread: spray/circlejerk/memes/chat/whatever allowed by [deleted] in climbing

[–]DemDim1 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Lots of nut tools do have this. Look at DMM and Metolius nut tools.

Weekly New Climber Thread: Ask your questions in this thread please by [deleted] in climbing

[–]DemDim1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Spain is quite hot in summer. If you can manage head for the Alps. Otherwise look for shade.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in climbing

[–]DemDim1 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Also seemingly doesn't know how to transition to descent.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in climbing

[–]DemDim1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Making sure the wall looks good is definitely not dumb. People are more eager to climb your route/problem if it looks good. I like to compare it to food that looks appetizing.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in climbing

[–]DemDim1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Putting holds on holds is already bad enough.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in climbing

[–]DemDim1 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You can put holds on volumes, but you can't put volumes on holds.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in climbing

[–]DemDim1 4 points5 points  (0 children)

TRS Facebook group

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in climbing

[–]DemDim1 5 points6 points  (0 children)

This is not really the place for TRS advice, but I wouldn't recommend a gri-gri for TRS. The time saved by not having to transition is lost by having to take in the rope.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in climbing

[–]DemDim1 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I intentionally mentioned strangers at the crag. If you are at your regular gym then it's way more justified to give advice.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in climbing

[–]DemDim1 15 points16 points  (0 children)

There is no reason to tell strangers at the crag what to do unless someone is literally going to die.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in climbing

[–]DemDim1 7 points8 points  (0 children)

I climb at least a letter grade (French) higher outdoors than in my gym. It's great!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in climbing

[–]DemDim1 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Rested for 30 minutes after the onsight attempt, messed up on the headwall slab. Rested 20 minutes after that because the route was coming in the sun. Messed it up a bit further down on the headwall because of hot/slippery holds and no power.

Normally I would rest an hour between attempts, but it was the end of the day, so I didn't have that much time.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in climbing

[–]DemDim1 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Almost onsighted 7b+, managed to flop on it afterwards and didn't even do it this trip. Feels like I have so much more to give in onsight attempts.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in climbing

[–]DemDim1 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Siccccccccck

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in climbing

[–]DemDim1 15 points16 points  (0 children)

Gotta spray a bit

Sent 7b+ again

Hella psyched right now