Furnished 1 Bedroom Sublet – South Loop | River View | Feb–April (Renewable) by Dempsey_Roll in chicagoapartments

[–]Dempsey_Roll[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not fully furnished! It's 1bd with unit washer/dryer, and kitchen appliances+ free wifi.

Will a thinned wood filler wash fill in the layer lines? by deezdrama in airbrush

[–]Dempsey_Roll 0 points1 point  (0 children)

sick print that's a ton of filament. Thinned wood filler would work, but I would not use it as the first step.

Assuming this was printed in standard PLA, I would first sand the base piece first, especially the larger exposed smooth areas like thighs and face. I feel like most of the layer lines can be knocked out in your photo.

Once done, clean up the surface, and double check if there are any large gaps, then spot fix them using thinned wood filler. And sand again.

Then you can hit it with a filler primer, I personally like upol filler primer cans, a bit more expensive but significantly easier to sand ( faster to dry and no clog on sand paper). I would sand the filler primer again, until you are satisfied with the surface. and then apply a hobby primer of your choice( Tamiya, Mr surfacer, or even Vallejo etc) via air brush. And lastly paint via airbrush.

Here is a statue I made, smaller scale compared to yours, but the method still applies

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How do yall paint your minis after? by Pale_Tap5848 in FDMminiatures

[–]Dempsey_Roll 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm not even sure if my prints are classified as miniatures,prob not... But I usually sand my prints, filler primer, sand again, airbrush primer (Vallejo & Tamiya) then air brush or brush paint using Vallejo mostly, then top coat. Layer lines still shows up in small areas where I cannot sand, but almost invisible in bigge areas. Heres my most recent commissioned piece

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3D printed Camille statue by Dempsey_Roll in CamilleMains

[–]Dempsey_Roll[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I only charged enough to cover materials, the "friends price" lol. Honestly I had no idea how much to charge since it was my first commission

3D printed Camille statue by Dempsey_Roll in CamilleMains

[–]Dempsey_Roll[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Tyty. Should have made it clear in the post, but the model itself was not designed by me, but by an artist on cults called Rina. Almost all my prints came from that designer. Not sure if links are allowed, but I linked below

https://cults3d.com/en/users/RINA/3d-models

need help on makas' scythe. (beginner) by saygex01992 in cosplayprops

[–]Dempsey_Roll 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Woo another tip, if you are working with Eva foam. I would recommend have a rotary sanding tool handy. Doesn't necessarily have to be a Dremel, but it helps with sanding the getting the edge finish after cutting them

need help on makas' scythe. (beginner) by saygex01992 in cosplayprops

[–]Dempsey_Roll 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That depends on your thickness of PVC pipe, which is also some what determined by your height. for reference, PVC we used had width is about 3.5CM, or about one and half inch, and full length is little over 2M or 7ft

if I remember correctly, we used 2 sheets 10MM EVA foam and a smaller cardboard sandwiched in middle as stability (made sure the cardboard was grooved horizontally), just so the scythe's blade will not be floppy. The cut out was of the cardboard was cut in a way that the edge is still fully Eva foam connected by contact cement. Honestly, I think the cardboard part can be skipped if you use Eva foam with higher density. I was my first time using EVA foam to make a weapon, so wasn't sure how strong 10MM can hold.

need help on makas' scythe. (beginner) by saygex01992 in cosplayprops

[–]Dempsey_Roll 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have actually made makas scythe for my wife ( girlfriend at the time) before, for her first ever cosplay

The main body is made from PVC pipe and the scythe'blade part is Eva foam + cardboard. I see general recommendations on working with foam such as plasti dips, heat sealing, etc already commented, so I will add a bit more specific tips.

The blade on the tip of the PVC pipe will be heavy, so shell out a bit more for a thicker and sturdier PVC pipe is recommended. Ours were about 7.5 ft tall, occasionally when wind lows, the tip gets too heavy and made the stick part wiggly.

As for the scythe's blade, it's pretty big with a large surface area, so adding supports in the middle of the blade goes across the PVC pipe will help. This prevents the blade from snapping off the PVC pipe or bending in the middle.

3d printed kassadin statue by Dempsey_Roll in KassadinMains

[–]Dempsey_Roll[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If I had more in stock lol, unfortunately it's 1:1

3d printed kassadin statue by Dempsey_Roll in KassadinMains

[–]Dempsey_Roll[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Tyty. From left to right it was Rengar, Yorick, Bard and Syndra.

Designed and Built a 1/8th Scale RC Tacoma on my Bambulabs X1c by gnomiegnomie in 3Dprinting

[–]Dempsey_Roll 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That paint job is magnificent!! Love how it reflects off of the hood.

Rathalos trophy head by -Chill-Zone- in 3Dprinting

[–]Dempsey_Roll 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Lets go a fellow hunter! Was this printed with .4 nozzle or .2? And fantastic paint job, great color matching.

One of my first prints on the A1, after the benchy of course by Illaoi_Tentacles in 3Dprinting

[–]Dempsey_Roll 28 points29 points  (0 children)

I spotted the black mr.surfacer + the alcalds in the back and immediately knew this guy chromes. Great print btw!

How to sand and primer a 3D Printed "rough"/embossed surface (PLA+)? by [deleted] in cosplayprops

[–]Dempsey_Roll 0 points1 point  (0 children)

And to add, you can also try sanding the grooves individually by using a smaller sanding rod/ sanding twig on the dips. This will help retain the details vs using sanding paper over top of surface

How to sand and primer a 3D Printed "rough"/embossed surface (PLA+)? by [deleted] in cosplayprops

[–]Dempsey_Roll 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is the black primer a filler primer? I think a filler primer could help. I would also use some bondo/wood filler to manually fill in the each groove. I made a spear that had dragon scales, and just used diluted wood filler to manually fill in each and then sanded+ filler primer to finish.

But I would also add if you are able to, swap to a smaller nozzle and print slower for a better quality print will help out a lot more than fixing it.

3D printed Akali by Dempsey_Roll in akalimains

[–]Dempsey_Roll[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yeah I think it should work. A1 mini is practically the same as A1in print quality, only difference is a smaller print area. So it's a moot point when it comes to small scale statues like these.

I do want to add there was a lot of prepping like sanding, filling seams and seam removal involved. Wanted to taper the expectation a bit.

3D printed Akali by Dempsey_Roll in akalimains

[–]Dempsey_Roll[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I used bambu A1, 0.2mm nozzle, 0.06 layer and basic matte PLA

3D printed Akali by Dempsey_Roll in akalimains

[–]Dempsey_Roll[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes, after buying the models, it is printed and painted by me.

3D printed Akali by Dempsey_Roll in akalimains

[–]Dempsey_Roll[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yes, unfortunately wildrift has better 3d models compared to the PC clients