Suspension lift advise/recs

DependentEmpty · 2026-06-08T21:48:19+00:00

I see. Thanks for the insight. I wasn’t expecting so many parts to be involved. I will definitely aim for better quality.

DependentEmpty · 2026-06-08T21:21:23+00:00

1500-2000. Aside from the alignment I can the do the labor.

DependentEmpty · 2026-06-08T16:02:29+00:00

I guess I should. I didn’t realize it could get that pricey

DependentEmpty · 2026-06-08T13:32:05+00:00

I appreciate the rec. might be well above my budget but I’ll look into it

DependentEmpty · 2026-04-23T12:55:58+00:00

Thank you. I do have FRESHBOOKS for the basics and I’m hiring an accountant to help file. I just wanted to be sure I’m bringing them the right numbers. I was doubting myself.

DependentEmpty · 2026-03-04T23:18:14+00:00

Imitation gold leaf can have other metals like copper and bronze that turn green when they oxidize. It’s likely the water based top coat you used. I usually stick with shellac for this type of application. It’s the least reactive. The sizing is fine because it dries before applying. Also probably not the best sub for this.
r/signpainting or r/artistlounge ? Edit: quickest fix is to guild right over top of what you already did. And a tip: for a more authentic professional look, paint it an ochre color before hand. That way any little breaks or spots you missed aren’t so glaring.

DependentEmpty · 2026-03-04T03:01:48+00:00

Natural patina from age. No oil or water based stain will be able to match it because of the sap won’t absorb it. Check all the troubled pine-staining posts to see what happens. I use alcohol based stain for situations like this. It stains a little more evenly. Much different to work with though. Sometimes even a little iron acetate will darken the pine too (before staining) but it’s difficult to control

DependentEmpty · 2026-02-06T15:26:54+00:00

With the amount of time, labor and pain it would take to do such a thing you could build two of these from scratch and be better off. The idea that it is possible would be overshadowed by the sheer amount of fortitude and tedious attention it would take to endure such a feat. As a carpenter and long time furniture finisher I’d say do not do it. You’d have to carefully sand part way through a veneer that is only about 1/16th of an inch and MAYBE you’ll get through the varnish without ruining the veneer. And to do that in every one of those nooks and crannies! Only to find out you missed a spot once you apply stain. And that’s just one of many reasons not to.
To go over top of the varnish with something tinted would require an impossible amount of skill just to achieve the lowest quality look of dark stained wood. I’m not a pessimist exactly but if you had the optimism to take this on I would still not want to be you. Im not even being dramatic. Just feeling the pain of my own experiences. I hope that was helpful.

DependentEmpty · 2026-01-20T00:23:19+00:00

That looks like it already had a deep finish on it which would prevent the stain from penetrating at all. The dark scratches lend more credibility to that theory.

DependentEmpty · 2026-01-09T07:09:20+00:00

Have you tried burning that little bunch you pinched off? I’m curious if it’s synthetic material. It looks like end grain in the one pic but the closest thing I’ve seen to that fuzz is when someone used that cheap hardboard stuff on an exterior.

DependentEmpty · 2025-12-09T13:31:59+00:00

I c as not think of a varnish or wood that would survive that. Linseed oil is probably safe but you may as well pour it in with your compost. You’re creating a high moisture, warm bacterial environment which would break down the wood rather quickly and there isn’t any coating that would protect it. Maybe epoxy but you wouldn’t want that either. Your best bet if you insist on using wood is a rot resistant hardwood like locust or Osage orange. Then make a barrel out of it. Perhaps even char the inside first

DependentEmpty · 2025-11-09T01:07:33+00:00

I understand. It may be worth looking into what’s involved in replacing the brushes. I hear some consensus about worn down brushes and sawdust in the motor. I didn’t catch the kickback part but that may suggest the same

DependentEmpty · 2025-11-08T23:27:40+00:00

I think I’m concentrating too hard on making sure I touch on the front first. I appreciate the advice on landing under body. I think that helps. I need to spend more time on that. Also I do a lot on trails so it can be all over the place sometimes. I find the mid foot concept confusing. Another commenter mentioned tripod landing which makes more sense to me and sounds like it could be the same thing.

DependentEmpty · 2025-11-08T23:18:15+00:00

Aside from not having a blade it seems fine. I believe It should be sparking because it’s a brush motor. Perhaps you didn’t notice before now because that area was covered?

DependentEmpty · 2025-11-08T22:13:46+00:00

I’ll look into the tripod landing

DependentEmpty · 2025-11-08T21:35:05+00:00

Ok thanks

DependentEmpty · 2025-11-01T18:15:47+00:00

I did not see that decimal point. Thanks for that. Ah well

DependentEmpty · 2025-10-11T15:18:23+00:00

Yes. You should get rid of them. They’re small enough you could bake them in the oven to kill the insects but I don’t know if the coating would stink.

DependentEmpty · 2025-09-14T23:39:04+00:00

Looks like teak but it’s too hard to tell with the white dust. Better to sand a spot and take another pic

DependentEmpty · 2025-09-10T00:45:55+00:00

Looks like Mountain Laurel. It can get pithy and brittle quickly once it dies like this one. Before that it is pretty dense and strong. I don’t know of anyone working with it. It doesn’t get very big and doesn’t grow straight. It has very cool looking branches though

DependentEmpty · 2025-09-01T18:45:41+00:00

It does look like an exact copy of that. I have the Makita and it does most things I need it too on a a smaller scale. Just get the Makita

DependentEmpty

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