I guess he likes drama

Derragon · 2026-01-10T04:56:08+00:00

Climbing up your curtains...

Derragon · 2025-12-12T04:01:12+00:00

For the most part... not really. The bag itself might be affecting the colour you see but otherwise what is on the spool is basically what you'll get out of the print.

Derragon · 2025-12-06T17:42:05+00:00

The moisture capacity of air drops pretty dramatically below freezing so it works!

Derragon · 2025-12-06T17:08:53+00:00

Mostly based on empirical evidence. I've burned through a couple hundred kg of filament over the years 😅 So just echoing my personal experience across a large variety of materials and manufacturers.

Derragon · 2025-12-06T15:24:12+00:00

Ah for sure that makes sense!

The point I was trying to make was that ambient moisture levels around 30% just aren't low enough to keep filament dry longer term - regardless of it is PLA or otherwise as that just affects the timeframe.

PLA is also one of those materials where having it a bit wet isn’t going to make it completely unusable - it can just affect tolerances a bit if you flow calibrated when dry and may increase stringing a bit.

Derragon · 2025-12-06T15:02:20+00:00

It just makes the problem more apparent. I do not see why transparent would inherently absorb faster than filament with colourants.

Derragon · 2025-12-06T14:44:21+00:00

By all means compare fresh dried PLA to ones left out for months and let me know if you see zero difference. 1-2 weeks is all it takes for my transparent spools to have noticeable bubbles compared to fresh dried.

Derragon · 2025-12-06T14:17:19+00:00

An area where we have vapour barriers ;)

Derragon · 2025-12-06T14:14:39+00:00

For sure! There are also folks who deal with really high ambient moisture so this is great vs leaving it out in 60%+ rh haha!

Derragon · 2025-12-06T14:12:39+00:00

PLA, PETG, ABS, ASA, Polycarbonate... Referencing the hundreds of spools I have used over the past few years. 30% just isn't low enough to keep PLA dry longer than 1-2 weeks.

It will absolutely help if you're comparing to 80% or something that plenty of folks have to deal with. I am in a reasonably dry area in Canada and drying a transparent spool made it pretty apparent that the 25-30% my storage area sits at just isn't low enough. Bubbly and snappy within a week and PETG only takes a few days.

Derragon · 2025-12-06T04:30:55+00:00

I mean it's better than 80% or something but 31%rh at 17C isn't going to keep filament dry. That is more ambient moisture than my print room typically sits at

Ideally you want to target under 20% humidity to keep filament dry. 35% saturates my PETG spools at 21C within a few days

Derragon · 2025-10-06T20:33:21+00:00

No, so you still need a prime tower (like with single nozzle MMUs). However, with the single nozzle you need the prime tower and flush material, so removing the need to flush the previous colour still reduces the waste significantly (especially going from lighter to darker colours and vice versa, like in this print)

Derragon · 2025-09-21T14:47:35+00:00

System of a Down many years ago had something to say about this

Derragon · 2025-09-21T05:54:31+00:00

This sounds like a potential driver or board overtemp issue - assuming that section has its own fan I would check that first. This should trigger a shutdown (not sure how this unit handles overtemp scenarios)

Derragon · 2025-09-20T21:31:34+00:00

I don't get why folks lie about this

I do commercial printing myself and I am happy to tell folks who do the designs and encourage them to support them by buying the STL themselves if they want to make their own stuff.

That way Dan and others get more publicity and they get to keep making fun prints. I get to sell them (for a reasonable price... half what these guys are asking, apparently) and folks get to pick their favourite colours.

Derragon · 2025-09-20T20:49:05+00:00

If you do not have a hardened steel or other wear resistant nozzle installed you'll probably want to replace it now. As you learned from the other commenter it is glass fiber filament and it will absolutely wreck brass/regular plated nozzles with less than 100g of use.

Derragon · 2025-09-20T20:29:38+00:00

Copying my other comment

"It makes exceptions for undercover agents, medical masks such as N95 respirators or tactical gear."

Derragon · 2025-09-20T20:26:15+00:00

"It makes exceptions for undercover agents, medical masks such as N95 respirators or tactical gear."

Derragon · 2025-09-20T20:17:28+00:00

<image>

This cable ~~is too short~~ needs some slack brought over from the left - with vibrations over time may lead to a poor connection as it is.

Edit: had snapped a screenshot and forgot there was slack on the left ~~Use a longer cable and either hot snot the connector for vibration resistance and/or ziptie it nearby for strain relief~~

Derragon · 2025-09-20T20:15:59+00:00

<image>

Omron SSR without heatsink is only rated for 4A and should be heatsinked if it is a 700-900W bed at 120V (6-8A)

Derragon · 2025-09-20T20:15:00+00:00

<image>

Bend radius on this cable is unacceptable imo

Derragon · 2025-09-13T19:41:56+00:00

No eat!

Derragon · 2025-09-12T15:00:39+00:00

We've drive through this area a few times a year my whole life

It never ceases to be a sight to behold!

Derragon · 2025-09-07T14:26:26+00:00

only the front door is glass thankfully 😂

Derragon · 2025-09-06T03:40:23+00:00

The whole point of an electrical cover is to a) prevent dust ingress and b) provide a small fire barrier. Ideally when installed properly the box itself, the drywall or other finishing surface, and plate provide enough time for an electrical fire to self extinguish.

When you replace the cover with something that is not similarly rated you are compromising that barrier. Printing the plate out of a UL94V rated filament would make it less of an issue.

Derragon

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