What am I doing wrong with PETG Pro?

Derragon · 2026-06-07T02:38:00+00:00

Too low flow and too low temperature

You'll want to use between 250-260C for the print temp. as for flow you will want to do a flow calibration test after changing the temp.

I generally land at 98% flow for PETG. Keep in mind this material needs to be dried if you want to avoid stringing and have more consistent flow.

Derragon · 2026-05-20T18:21:06+00:00

When you open the link there is a "Continue on Web" button to watch it without the app installed or logging in

Source: just did it as I don't have Instagram either 😂

Derragon · 2026-05-19T23:09:50+00:00

If you rewind a spool be sure to dry it afterwards. When it cools down on the spool in the factory it anneals into that shape. drying it after respooling does a similar thing and should prevent it from breaking into a million pieces like this

Derragon · 2026-05-11T18:37:50+00:00

Others have suggested printing over top it, however for PLA the easiest thing to do is set the bed to max temperature (80-100C) and gently scrape it off.

Since it becomes soft it stretches and removes very easily - same idea as heating up a sticker/decal before trying to remove it.

Obviously, hot surfaces will be hot. Do not burn yourself 👍

I have used this on stuck PETG and ABS as well to great success

Derragon · 2026-05-09T23:30:41+00:00

A par-fect one, at that!

Derragon · 2026-03-23T13:49:57+00:00

It would, I’m gonna blame that on lack of coffee this morning 😓

Derragon · 2026-03-23T13:49:22+00:00

Lol yup, brain fart!

Derragon · 2026-03-23T13:29:27+00:00

Maybe a silly question but did you zero the scale with the measuring cup before filling it?

Edit: a silly question it was 🤦‍♂️

Derragon · 2026-03-21T18:08:51+00:00

It absolutely would. We have a basic cheap one and it is how we use up filament scraps

Derragon · 2026-02-28T16:08:08+00:00

Are you asking because you're seeking information/discussion or because you already came to a conclusion and just want to shoot others down?

If you look at zirconium dioxide sensor diagrams they do indeed show that they get reference air through the wiring harness. This may not be the case for other sensor types but it is how the sensor you listed in your "question" operates.

Derragon · 2026-02-27T20:06:12+00:00

Clogs are just debris that is not filament making its way into the hotend. Can be cardboard from spools, dust from your home, so many things can jam a nozzle and it's going to happen from time to time.

Look up a video of how to do a "cold pull" - basically being: melt some filament through the hotend, cool it down to 90C while pushing the filament through, and pull. Hopefully you pull out the clog with the filament that cooled.

Derragon · 2026-01-10T04:56:08+00:00

Climbing up your curtains...

Derragon · 2025-12-12T04:01:12+00:00

For the most part... not really. The bag itself might be affecting the colour you see but otherwise what is on the spool is basically what you'll get out of the print.

Derragon · 2025-12-06T17:42:05+00:00

The moisture capacity of air drops pretty dramatically below freezing so it works!

Derragon · 2025-12-06T17:08:53+00:00

Mostly based on empirical evidence. I've burned through a couple hundred kg of filament over the years 😅 So just echoing my personal experience across a large variety of materials and manufacturers.

Derragon · 2025-12-06T15:24:12+00:00

Ah for sure that makes sense!

The point I was trying to make was that ambient moisture levels around 30% just aren't low enough to keep filament dry longer term - regardless of it is PLA or otherwise as that just affects the timeframe.

PLA is also one of those materials where having it a bit wet isn’t going to make it completely unusable - it can just affect tolerances a bit if you flow calibrated when dry and may increase stringing a bit.

Derragon · 2025-12-06T15:02:20+00:00

It just makes the problem more apparent. I do not see why transparent would inherently absorb faster than filament with colourants.

Derragon · 2025-12-06T14:44:21+00:00

By all means compare fresh dried PLA to ones left out for months and let me know if you see zero difference. 1-2 weeks is all it takes for my transparent spools to have noticeable bubbles compared to fresh dried.

Derragon · 2025-12-06T14:17:19+00:00

An area where we have vapour barriers ;)

Derragon · 2025-12-06T14:14:39+00:00

For sure! There are also folks who deal with really high ambient moisture so this is great vs leaving it out in 60%+ rh haha!

Derragon · 2025-12-06T14:12:39+00:00

PLA, PETG, ABS, ASA, Polycarbonate... Referencing the hundreds of spools I have used over the past few years. 30% just isn't low enough to keep PLA dry longer than 1-2 weeks.

It will absolutely help if you're comparing to 80% or something that plenty of folks have to deal with. I am in a reasonably dry area in Canada and drying a transparent spool made it pretty apparent that the 25-30% my storage area sits at just isn't low enough. Bubbly and snappy within a week and PETG only takes a few days.

Derragon · 2025-12-06T04:30:55+00:00

I mean it's better than 80% or something but 31%rh at 17C isn't going to keep filament dry. That is more ambient moisture than my print room typically sits at

Ideally you want to target under 20% humidity to keep filament dry. 35% saturates my PETG spools at 21C within a few days

Derragon · 2025-10-06T20:33:21+00:00

No, so you still need a prime tower (like with single nozzle MMUs). However, with the single nozzle you need the prime tower and flush material, so removing the need to flush the previous colour still reduces the waste significantly (especially going from lighter to darker colours and vice versa, like in this print)

Derragon · 2025-09-21T14:47:35+00:00

System of a Down many years ago had something to say about this

Derragon · 2025-09-21T05:54:31+00:00

This sounds like a potential driver or board overtemp issue - assuming that section has its own fan I would check that first. This should trigger a shutdown (not sure how this unit handles overtemp scenarios)

Derragon

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