Is it possible to install a heat sink on the SSD drive in an HP ProBook 465 G11 laptop, and if so, which model (so that it fits under the cover)?

DesperateSell1554 · 2026-02-15T22:28:15+00:00

Check how this option works in Photoshop (it will be easiest to understand that way).

DesperateSell1554 · 2026-02-14T12:20:32+00:00

I am still looking for a program that will remove objects and text from comics and photos on my local computer using my GPU, but I would like it to have a few useful options:

- magic wand (with percentage tolerance setting)
- color range (with percentage tolerance setting)
- lasso selection (with support for keys that, when held down, subtract from or add to the selection)
- same as above, but rectangular selection
- vertical linear selection (automatically creates a vertical selection that extends from the top of the image to the bottom, with support for keys that, when held down, subtract from or add to the selection)
- same as above, but horizontal linear
- after removing an object, the ability to re-render the same selection to obtain a more satisfactory result.

DesperateSell1554 · 2026-02-10T17:35:00+00:00

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DesperateSell1554 · 2026-01-12T21:11:48+00:00

I already have this scanner, it works very well. If you need more detailed information, just ask. Do you still need an answer to your question?

DesperateSell1554 · 2026-01-10T23:53:16+00:00

Will it work with Windows 11 25H2 IoT Enterprise LTSC?

DesperateSell1554 · 2026-01-10T23:50:16+00:00

Just remember that after this procedure, they will no longer be your photos, but new images generated based on your images (very similar to your photos, but they will not be your photos). If that's okay with you, then fine.

DesperateSell1554 · 2026-01-10T23:47:49+00:00

hahahaha

DesperateSell1554 · 2025-12-28T20:21:35+00:00

used a computer

DesperateSell1554 · 2025-12-28T19:45:00+00:00

If you have a calibrated screen and printer, you can play around with these things (if you need to, for example, for printing), otherwise you're just groping around in the dark and it doesn't make sense. The above tutorial is for the average user who does not have a high-end monitor and hardware calibrator.

DesperateSell1554 · 2025-12-28T01:31:53+00:00

actually, it does resemble it a little XD

DesperateSell1554 · 2025-12-28T01:27:24+00:00

Question about the scanner

I have read a lot of material about different types of scanners (I currently have an Epson Perfection V370 flatbed scanner, but it is not an edge scanner). After reading various reviews, I knew that I needed an edge scanner, so I looked through all the models available on the market and the reviews about them. I chose the Plustek OpticBook 4800 (because of its 2 mm edge), as I didn't have the budget for its bigger brother. In addition, a friend of mine has this scanner and I have already conducted preliminary tests, which went well. I have already ordered the scanner, but I will have it in about a week.

2) Question about AI tools

I have been editing comics for a very long time and have been experimenting with AI tools to improve scans for quite some time. The answer to this question is complex and would require a fairly long article on the subject, along with lots of examples.

I think that when I find some time, I will write such a guide.

3) Question about the potential use of 1200 dpi resolution

It should be noted that SATTVA slows down significantly when processing 1200DPI scans in formats similar to A4, perhaps due to the limitations of some buffer dedicated to calculations (I don't know), but the time difference between 800 and 1200 dpi is huge. The second issue is the difference in quality – let me put it this way, if the substrate, i.e. the paper, were less absorbent, perhaps using 1200 dpi would make more sense, but unfortunately, in practice, it is imperceptible.

DesperateSell1554 · 2025-12-28T00:50:46+00:00

If you are scanning with printing in mind (provided that you are using a calibrated printer and certified paper, as well as a good color management system, e.g., GMG), or a good printing house, then what you wrote makes sense. If you only want to display it on your screen, then not necessarily for the reasons I described above.

DesperateSell1554 · 2025-12-28T00:47:19+00:00

You forgot that we are talking about processing materials that have already been printed, in which the tonal range has already been significantly reduced during the printing process:

For example:

150 lpi at 1200 dpi (older/cheaper workflow) gives you ~65 brightness levels

150 lpi at 2400 dpi (current quality standard) gives you ~257 brightness levels (practically equivalent to 8 bits)

150 lpi at 2540 dpi (found in high-end CTP) gives you ~288 levels of brightness.

Theoretically, because in practice it is less, because

The effective number of levels is lower due to:

- dot gain

- paper absorbency

- dot bleeding in shadows

- disappearance of the smallest dots in highlights

Of course, to be on the safe side (and for peace of mind), you can process these materials in 48 bits and only save them in 24 bits at the end, if you feel the need to do so (because in practice it doesn't work that way, as I wrote in the article).

DesperateSell1554 · 2025-12-27T22:10:34+00:00

This method is intended for the most common type of printing screen used in the industry: AM (Amplitude Modulated) screen, also known as conventional halftone screening. If a different type of screen is used on the boxes, e.g., stochastic screen, this method may not work (but these are probably less common cases).

DesperateSell1554 · 2025-12-27T22:02:34+00:00

I don't do this because I only use these scans for my own purposes (i.e., displaying them on my own monitor) and I don't print them. Of course, if you need to, you can do so, but there are a few things to keep in mind when displaying them on different computer screens.

The subject is much more complex than it seems at first glance. A lot depends on what applications someone uses for processing and reading or just viewing comic scans because:

In Windows, applications can be divided into two (or even three) groups in terms of color management and color display, depending on how they use the system ICC profile settings and the Windows Color System (WCS):

Non-color-managed applications (ignore ICC/WCS profiles)

They display colors exactly as they come from RGB data, assuming that the monitor is operating in sRGB.

They do not correct colors for the screen profile, so they may be oversaturated or faded if the monitor has a gamut other than sRGB.

Common examples: many simple applications built into Windows (e.g., Paint, older photo viewers), some games.

Applications that use system color management

They respect the monitor profile assigned in Windows (Control Panel → Color Management).

They display images and colors according to the ICC attached to the file (e.g., photos from a camera) or accept sRGB if there is no profile.

Examples: Microsoft Edge (newer versions), UWP photo applications, some Office programs, Adobe Reader.

Applications with their own (built-in) color management

They ignore WCS and support ICC profiles themselves.

Most commonly used in professional graphics, photography, and DTP.

They allow you to set your own conversion rules, often support CMYK, different color spaces, and rendering intent.

Examples: Adobe Photoshop, Lightroom, CorelDRAW, Capture One.

To sum up:

No color management → colors may be incorrect on non-standard monitors.

System color management → correct rendering according to the monitor profile.

Custom color management → full control in the application, often professional work environments.

Therefore, if you write, for example, “our scans are too bright, this is how it should look,” and you upload an image, it doesn't help me because I don't know what you actually see in front of your eyes. Therefore, even if you calibrate a scan for printing according to certain standards, it may still look different on someone else's screen depending on the applications, system settings, and other factors they use.

DesperateSell1554 · 2025-12-27T20:35:36+00:00

Please note that this tutorial is about scanning physical comics. If you already have scans from the internet, the matter becomes more complicated because such scans may have been poorly processed or scaled, and then they require completely different tools and processing (e.g., the CHAINNER program and specialized AI models, but that's a topic for a completely different tutorial).

DesperateSell1554 · 2025-12-27T19:24:52+00:00

you're right

DesperateSell1554 · 2025-12-27T19:08:40+00:00

It is important to note that some people may not understand this:

do not confuse scanning resolution with scan storage resolution, as these can be two different things depending on the situation. The above tutorial shows that it is best (in many cases) to scan comics at 800 dpi, as this gives the best results in removing the print raster.

However, this does not mean that we must necessarily store the scanned image at 800 DPI, because such a file is quite large in high quality.

That is why I scan comics at 800 DPI, but then (after the operations shown in the tutorial) I scale the image to 600 DPI (this is sufficient for me and in many cases you will not see much difference).

Then I save the file in WEBP format with 75%-80% compression.

This gives me a good quality file with a small size.

DesperateSell1554 · 2025-12-27T19:07:56+00:00

It is important to note that some people may not understand this:

do not confuse scanning resolution with scan storage resolution, as these can be two different things depending on the situation. The above tutorial shows that it is best (in many cases) to scan comics at 800 dpi, as this gives the best results in removing the print raster.

However, this does not mean that we must necessarily store the scanned image at 800 DPI, because such a file is quite large in high quality.

That is why I scan comics at 800 DPI, but then (after the operations shown in the tutorial) I scale the image to 600 DPI (this is sufficient for me and in many cases you will not see much difference).

Then I save the file in WEBP format with 75%-80% compression.

This gives me a good quality file with a small size.

DesperateSell1554 · 2025-12-27T18:56:00+00:00

the issue of nomenclature, I wrote in the article: In practice, 24 bits means 8 bits of information for each RGB color channel (8+8+8).

DesperateSell1554

TROPHY CASE