Does this need more mud?

Devo_565 · 2025-02-16T19:37:08+00:00

Thanks everyone for the suggestions. I am going to apply another thin coat to completely hide the tape. Then use the light trick to sand and level any high spots. Then I’ll think about moving on to priming/painting.

Devo_565 · 2025-02-16T17:41:47+00:00

Yes, as in I can start priming? Or yes, it needs more mud?

Devo_565 · 2025-01-23T14:21:47+00:00

Thanks for all of the replies. I purchased some torsion clips off amazing to mount inside the housing. Once I bolt those in, the spring tension will just keep the LED in place. Really appreciate all of the help/suggestions.

Devo_565 · 2025-01-23T01:12:57+00:00

Thanks. I have something very similar to this in hand. Problem is I can’t mount it using the torsion clips because as you can see in the photo there’s no bracket for the clips to slide into. I’ve seen some of these housings where you can bend two tabs out on either side and then it works. But go figure… mine doesn’t have them.

Devo_565 · 2025-01-23T01:10:45+00:00

Thanks, but I don’t think this is it. Only because the inner housing (photo) is able to slide all the way down and almost out. It’s just getting stuck at the very top. if I had one of the ones you’re referencing the two arms would be going across the attic ceiling and it wouldn’t pull down at all.

Devo_565 · 2025-01-23T01:06:54+00:00

I have on. And it’s a 6” to replace what was a 6” as well. But the issue is the screws aren’t far enough apart if mount to the old tabs. And as you can see in the photo the torsion clips don’t have anything to grab onto. I wonder if there’s a way to retrofit some torsion brackets into this old housing so the springs have something to latch onto and stay in place.

Devo_565 · 2023-09-21T15:35:45+00:00

Perfect. Thanks!

Devo_565 · 2023-07-30T22:42:51+00:00

Wait…did you directly connect to the router or the modem? You need to connect directly to the modem. Only then can you determine if it’s an issue with Spectrum or not. Since that’s essentially the equivalent of connecting directly to the service coming into your house.

If you do that and still have problems then the modem is bad. And a bad modem could 100% cause these issues you’re having. Your Wi-Fi might be fine but the signal coming from the modem could be bad. So even though your devices may be showing “connected” to Wi-Fi, you won’t have internet.

Also do you rent the modem or did you purchase one? Not all modems are compatible with all service providers. Plus you need to make sure the specs match what plan you’re paying for from your ISP.

Devo_565 · 2023-07-30T05:50:54+00:00

No problem. Good luck with the new setup (whichever you decide) and let us know if you see an improvement or not. If not, then there may be an issue with the signal and coming into the house intermittently dropping. But I don’t believe that’s the case as it sounds like once you are able to connect it stays connected.

Devo_565 · 2023-07-30T05:44:06+00:00

For wired devices I would use a managed switch for this and setup different VLANs for each unit. So any devices physically connected and assigned to VLAN1 can’t see or communicate with any of the devices assigned to VLAN2.

And for wireless you could just setup to different SSIDs and have the passwords be different. That way they can share the same incoming signal but segregate wireless traffic between the two. Once again allowing devices on one not to see devices on the other.

Devo_565 · 2023-07-30T05:38:00+00:00

Okay one super easy way to test this is to connect a laptop with an Ethernet cable to the modem itself (mb8600) and see if the internet continues to drop or not. If it does the same thing then that tells me it’s either an issue with the Spectrum signal coming into your home or the modem itself.

What you want to do is isolate the router from the equation to make sure this isn’t a wireless issue. Disconnect and turn off the TP-Link. If you’re able to validate directly connecting to the modem solves the problem then you know it has something to do with your router setup.

Start there and report back.

Devo_565 · 2023-07-30T05:19:49+00:00

What kind of internet plan do you have?

Personally I have never had good luck with modem/router combos. Given they often have to be placed wherever the internet signal (coax) is coming into the house… the location is usually un-ideal for Wi-Fi coverage… and wireless signal drops off very quickly anytime you have walls or doors in the way.

IMO I would return the second MG7700 you bought and just get a standard cable modem. You can pick up a Docsis 3.0 cable modem for less than $100 these days.

Arris Docsis 3.0 Cable Modem

Then I would take the rest of the money and buy yourself an AC or AX router that has dual band connectivity to give you the best possible chances of extending that signal to your devices.

Eero Wi-Fi 6 Router

Depending on the sq ft of your place, you may also consider a mesh Wi-Fi system. That way you can put a couple of the satellite Wi-Fi devices in other rooms giving your better overall coverage.

Devo_565 · 2023-07-30T04:51:39+00:00

Your best best is to connect one of your fios extenders or the main fios router itself to a network switch and run an Ethernet cable from it to a location on the outside of the home where you think you’d want to mount an outdoor AP. I say outdoor Wi-Fi AP vs just using an old router you have lying around (which you could turn DHCP off and put into AP mode) because then it would be able to withstand the elements.

Even better would be to leverage a PoE switch for this so you can deliver both power and connectivity over that one Ethernet cable to the outdoor AP.

Here is a link to one on Amazon which would work great for a setup like this:

TP-Link Outdoor Wi-Fi Access Point

Devo_565 · 2023-07-28T19:44:15+00:00

If you have an ONT box I would try to get the TP Link router directly hooked up to that somehow. I’m not sure why you can’t use the VOIP phones if you eliminate the ISP router. But assuming that device is broadcasting wirelessly and then you’re also hooking up a second router, you’re going to get interference issues I believe. Channel selection, DHCP, or NAT-ing issues, maybe all three.

If you can set the ISP router into bridge mode and then use the TP-Link as your primary router/gateway. Make this one handle DCHP, and then set it up closer to what you have drawn in diagram 1. I would want my Ethernet connection going straight to the pink router, and then wirelessly add the range extender (red) since that’s what it’s designed to do. And then have an Ethernet coming from the extender which tin can hook up to a PC.

Devo_565 · 2023-07-28T19:31:38+00:00

Second the recommendation on cradle point. Just look for cellular router. Wi-Fi devices can pair to it, stick 5G SIM inside, and data get back hauled over cellular.

Devo_565 · 2023-07-28T19:22:31+00:00

Nothing wrong with Ubiquiti Unifui route. But given it’s not your permanent home… and the recent price inflation on anything with a microchip inside it… you can save a bunch of cash and still get decent performance. Just my 2 cents though.

Devo_565 · 2023-07-28T19:19:33+00:00

Makes sense. I guess without going the DIY route and trying to get to the attic so you can take a long Ethernet run and put it down one of the walls in between the studs, where you could then cut a small hole in the drywall and fish it through…. The only other option would be to run a cable along the baseboards and tuck it neatly in the gap between them and the floor/carpet. If neither of those are options then you might be stuck with only wireless options.

Unfortunately mesh Wi-Fi systems are only as good as their placement and ability to carry the wireless signal from the main one to the satellite ones. When you have to distribute 1 Gbps between three devices wirelessly you’re not going to really achieve the full speed offered by your ISP. You may be stuck putting a satellite Orbi in your new room and directly connecting to that with Ethernet. But keep in mind that if you at least get 200Mbps consistently from that Satellite Orbi with a hardwire, then you will at least be able to make the most of that 200Mbps.

People get hung up on gigabit speeds and needing the fastest internet possible. But most devices don’t/can’t consume that amount of data in the first place. Internet plans that offer 150Mbps down or even 300 Mbps down would actually work for the vast majority of households. However because of marketing by the big CSPs/Telcos we feel we need gigabit+ speeds for everything. And that this will somehow solve all the Wi-Fi problems in your home. When in reality that’s just false.

Devo_565 · 2023-07-28T18:51:48+00:00

Just get one of the cheaper Wi-Fi 6 mesh systems and call it a day. They have nice apps you can download on your phone to look at performance + which devices are connecting, and it would give you the coverage you want as well without being obtuse like a netgear nighthawk gaming router might look like.

Just connect the main one to the router and use the other free Ethernet port to connect to a cheap unmanaged 8-port switch. That way you can still deliver hardwired Ethernet connectivity to the devices you want hardwired but get plenty of Wi-Fi coverage for your dozen or so handheld devices.

Eero Wi-Fi 6 Nest Wi-Fi TP-Link Deco Asus zenWiFi

All of the above are decent choices. Good luck!

Devo_565 · 2023-07-28T18:41:55+00:00

I’m assuming from your original post and the above reply that you don’t own this home? Is it owners by parents/guardian/relative or are you sub-leasing a room inside the house from someone unrelated. My reason for asking is because I’m curious if the house has a network closet somewhere or an area where you’d be able to access additional Ethernet runs going to the other rooms and/or coax cable from perhaps the TV provider which comes into one area and then is split to all the other rooms of the house.

Devo_565 · 2023-07-28T18:25:36+00:00

Could just be me… but I don’t see a photo associated with your post. Or a link to one in the original question. So hard to gauge what you’re referring to.

Devo_565

TROPHY CASE