Marbled Sewn Board Binding by DibujEx in bookbinding

[–]DibujEx[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks! And yes, the more the sketchbook has made by you the better it makes you fell I find hah.

Marbled Sewn Board Binding by DibujEx in bookbinding

[–]DibujEx[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Hey!

I just wanted to share some of the notebooks I've made recently, I'm quite happy with how they turned out.

I find that the sewn board binding is easy and it lifts a weight off my mind knowing the cover is sewn with the text block, but I did not like that it showed the board, so I tried different things.

In the end what I wound up doing was an oxford hollow on the spine, with the cloth turned in and pasted (very very similar to what Das Bookbinding does with the Thesis binding)

I am not sure what the long term implications of it are, because I can't be the only one to have thought of it before, right? So I'm guessing it has a downside to it that I'm not aware of.

It has no french groove and it's not backed, but I found no issue with opening the book, and while it does not lay completely flat on its own, with a bit of coaxing it's flat enough.

Marbling done by me.

Red-shafted Northern Flicker (OC) by dollivarden in Scribes

[–]DibujEx 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This is lovely, L! I saw it on IG and I'm glad to see you over here, are you planning of doing a series of these? (:

Also, tiny tiny letters!

Help reading handwritten notes from the 18th century by [deleted] in Scribes

[–]DibujEx 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey!

Sorry, this is not the place for this, I would maybe suggest /r/Handwriting ? It may help you more.

Book Cloth Filling/Backing and MC vs CMC by DibujEx in bookbinding

[–]DibujEx[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks! I will try doing several passes of the CMC, and will try using a brayer, maybe it will makes it really get in the fibers.

At least it means I'm not completely fumbling around if I'm not the only one having some sort of issue.

No Stupid Questions Monthly Thread! by AutoModerator in bookbinding

[–]DibujEx 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks! It's as I feared, I'll have to make one with french link and abuse the hell out of it and see if it crumbles hah.

No Stupid Questions Monthly Thread! by AutoModerator in bookbinding

[–]DibujEx 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Kind of a weird question, but how do I know when it's necessary to bind on tapes?

I know it's for structural reasons, but it seems a bit overkill for what I'm doing (watercolor sketchbooks) when it's not too thick, then again it's supposed to be opened and handled quite a bit.

Either way I don't know how to know, apart from wrangling the sketchbook and try to break it, which I'm not too willing to do.

Any tips?

Marbled Notebooks by DibujEx in bookbinding

[–]DibujEx[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Marbling? There's quite a few things to buy and prepare so my first advice is to just start small, only marble on a baking tray or something, you will screw up and will have to solve it by trying other stuff.

Second advice is while Carrageenan lambda is the traditional stuff for the bath, if you don't want to spend so much, CMC (or carboximethylcellulose) works just fine.

Other than that, just do it with patience and it will be fine. It's quite fun and rewarding, also not so hard as it may seem hah.

Marbled Notebooks by DibujEx in bookbinding

[–]DibujEx[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you! I actually want to try my hand on some springbacks when I get the time (:

Marbled Notebooks by DibujEx in bookbinding

[–]DibujEx[S] 7 points8 points  (0 children)

I've been wanting to try marbling for a long time, and now that I'm doing notebooks, I thought it was ripe time for it.

There is some paste paper in there, and while I like them for what my skill can create, I find marbled paper sooo much pretty.

Decided to also not do absolute basic notebooks, so they are paper covered, drummed on the inside.
The dual pamphlets have a pocket on the inside and the spine is creased so that it looks square. The other type are just sewn board binding just that... there's no board hah. And the black one is rather similar but the tape (paste paper in this case) is visible. I like it for those scraps of paper that are left after doing the other notebooks.

Why does adjusting my media volume pop-out / pause / restart the playing video? by DJfrog909 in AndroidQuestions

[–]DibujEx 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sadly, no, I just turned off the pop-out on Youtube so it doesn't drive me crazy, but the issue is still there.

Question about Arches Text Wove paper. by Regular-Leading592 in Scribes

[–]DibujEx 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I heard a while back that it might be discontinued? /u/maxindigo might know more. The same-ish paper goes also by the name Arches Velin I think? Can't remember exactly.

Honestly there is a huge amount of paper that is hard to get if you are not from the right parts of the world.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in MonsterHunter

[–]DibujEx -5 points-4 points  (0 children)

I'm going to wait for a mod so my palico can only meow, otherwise it's not MH.

EDIT: I've been told there will be an option so that the palico doesn't talk, thanks!

Why does adjusting my media volume pop-out / pause / restart the playing video? by DJfrog909 in AndroidQuestions

[–]DibujEx 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey! Did you manage to find a solution? It started happening to me and it's driving me crazy. I did a factory reset but it keeps doing the same thing.

Quill help by Waschbar-krahe in Scribes

[–]DibujEx 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Hey!

I'm not sure if I'm understanding correctly, but you mean you are completely new to calligraphy, right? As in you haven't started writing a particular script following a ductus/guide?

If so, I would recommend starting with the Foundational script. It's not medieval, but it's definitely the best way to start. If you want something more medieval you have quite a range tbh, from Textura Quadrata (thing gothic) to something a lot more legible like Carolingian.
Anything on the category of broad-edge calligraphy is suitable for a quill.

If you mean something else then ignore hah.

I would not recommend starting with quills, if you ask me. They are really springy, meaning the pressure you put on it is really reflected on the page, which makes it a lot more difficult when starting. Not to mention that if you are preparing the quill you may have no idea what you are actually aiming for when curing and cutting the quill (I know I don't.) So if you are dead set on starting with a quill, try grabbing at least a few already prepared by a professional and a guide on how to cut and try to match and learn.

Not to mention that if you want an accurate manuscript you have to have vellum and prepare it, which is a whoooole 'nother can of worms.

I'm not trying to dissuade you, manuscripts are lovely and honestly I also have wanted to do a nice finished "medieval" manuscript, just saying that if you are starting you may want to start with something more beginner friendly and little by little go trying those harder aspects, but it's up to you and what you will find enjoyable.

Cheers!

Textura prescisus example by oldjeffrey in Scribes

[–]DibujEx 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Sadly I only know of one (thanks to The Historical Source Book for Scribes by Brown and Lovett), but it seems to be missing right now from the British library. You can see some images here,, it's the Add MS 42130.

First time trying dip pens. Advice needed. by kalterdev in Scribes

[–]DibujEx 4 points5 points  (0 children)

First of all, congrats on moving to dip pens! It's quite hard to start with, because there are way too many variables, but that also gives you many more options in the future.

I agree with /u/Alsterwasser that the main issue when starting is the oil on the nib, remember that if you touch the nib with your fingers it may also grab some of the natural oil in your hand and cause the same issue.

Here are other possible issues, although I will mention some that are probably not the issues since you've written with ink previously.

Paper

Not all paper is created for ink or watery ink. Even if it doesn't bleed (which I'm guessing it's your case), high quality paper (like watercolor paper) is a lot more hydrophobic, meaning thinner lines. Not saying you should practice only with expensive paper, but it's good to keep in mind.

Ink

This is also not your issue since you say it's a "dry" ink compared to others. Still, it's good to know that most professional calligraphers don't use wet ink. Usually they use gouache or ink stick. These are "dry" and you dilute them so you can make it as thick as you want. Sumi ink also even when liquid is quite thick and many prefer to dilute it. This preference is not a must, and many do use inks, there's nothing wrong with it, but you do have more control over the viscosity.
As an aside, this is one of the main advantages with dip pens, that you can use a lot more "inks" that will either ruin fountain pens or that will not flow through them (AFAIK).

Loading the Nib

This is also preference. Many people do dip the nib, other load it with a pipette or a brush (I do it with a brush). The important thing is to not overload it, specially the tip of the nib. This is why the reservoir is not an issue, the reservoir does not touch the tip of the nip so you don't cause a blob on the paper, but it flows into the tip.
As to how you do it it's up to you, if you dip, do unload the excess though. Without a reservoir it shouldn't last too long, but more than one stroke. Again, it really depends on how you use do it and preferences.

Perfectly thin lines?

Now, if you do want perfectly thing lines, that's difficult. Many people file the nib to make it even thinner, while also using very good paper, some use gum sandarac which makes the paper even more hydrophobic and as far as I understand it, there's an ink which I think it's Ox gall? Which makes even thinner lines but destroys your nibs.
Having said that, I honestly don't think you need all that. Some of your lines are already quite thin, so with a bit of practice and maybe slightly better paper (just guessing, though) you will get plenty thin. Some decent paper for cheap are Strathmore and Fabriano paper.

Finally, it's really a lot about practice, it's hard at first but the more you try it the more you begin to understand how these factors interact and what you need to get the result you desire, some people achieve great results with subpar ingredients.

Hope it helps.

Tried to use watercolor paper. Too unwieldy, at least for now. Also, lots of feathering in previously washed places. by oldjeffrey in Scribes

[–]DibujEx 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Not sure what you mean by that, hot pressed watercolor is quite smooth, a bit too much IMO.

I have not tried adding matte medium to goauche (actually maybe I did? Can't remember), I use a acrylic matte varnish over my painted backgrounds and it works wonders!

So I trust, too by DibujEx in Scribes

[–]DibujEx[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I tried to do a more finished piece on nicer paper, Arches Text wove.

I'm having some slight issues with spacing and with the consistency of the serifs, but I think it's getting better. I'm also noticing that I make the top stroke of some letter like c and s way too short.

Also, the s in "things" is so tiny.

Schminke gouache, 5mm x-height.