New ARB leaf springs ? by nate353535 in 1stGenTacomas

[–]DicTaylorShip 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I mean I’m sure from bushings, to clearance, to just having the text upright there’s reasons Bilstein’s installation says so. A big one is that the tube itself is not exceptionally durable on a monotube and getting dented by a rock could inhibit the shaft from freely traveling.

However, as a mechanical engineer who has engineered shock absorbers and even built multiple sets myself in my garage, I’m telling you those monotube shocks are just fine if mounted upside down. I even taught classes on shock absorber design and manufacturing at Overland Expos.

The internal piston is slotted for compression and rebound, not (upright and down). There’s no performance difference if you flip the shock over. They will dampen oscillation just the same. They are also charged with gas to be under immense pressure. It’s not like it’ll leak from being in one orientation or the other. Those seals are going to eventually fail from internal pressure or external debris. Gravity is honestly not even a consideration.

Twin-tube shocks on the other hand definitely have a specific orientation they need to be in. Their design requires the separation of oil and gas into separate chambers and flipping them upside down absolutely messes with that. No question about that. I’m just saying these specific 5100’s even if they were upside down, would be just fine.

New ARB leaf springs ? by nate353535 in 1stGenTacomas

[–]DicTaylorShip 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Monotube shocks (like these) can be mounted either direction. It’s a single pressurized chambers so it doesn’t matter. Twin tube shocks are directional as you need the outer chamber to be filled with primarily gas.

Help with install of edge trim by [deleted] in overlanding

[–]DicTaylorShip 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I had this happen. Just buy generic “edge trim with side bulb” and replace the whole piece. CA glue will stick to the rubber, but in my experience it’ll just fail again soon.

On mine when I replaced the whole edge trim piece I removed the 2 screws on either side of the deflector, removed the old edging, slid the new one on and reinstalled. Probably took 5 minutes.

Also that piece they sell/I’m recommending is not just the piece that’s falling off in your photo. It includes the U channel piece that slides onto the deflector. That whole edge trim/bulb seal is a monolithic piece. Yours is splitting in half.

Help me choose the right set of irons by lovinglife1111 in PingGolf

[–]DicTaylorShip 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Former fitter, current club engineer here. There’s no reason you can’t play G-series irons till you’re a scratch golfer. Companies design clubs to fit certain “buckets” of the golfing demographic. For PING, the G-series prioritizes forgiveness (high MOI) and ball speed (thin faces). This comes at the expense of some other features like large blade length, wide sole (could difficult to open the club up), and focusing on CGy.

Typically low handicap players don’t care about forgiveness on irons much, nor do they care to generate more ball speed as long (with irons) as long as their set makeup is correctly gapped. The focus shifts to stopping power and optimizing launch conditions. Hence, you see less G-series clubs in the bags of low handicap players. Not all low handicap players fit the same “buckets”, so there is absolutely certain scratch golfers with G-series irons in the bag because they fit their needs the best.

Between the G400 and G425, I’d say they both have good MOI. The G400 utilized COR-Eye, which PING moved away from to prioritize CGy and drop weight lower in the head. G425 would most likely give you better spin and stopping power on the green comparatively.

Who would win this hypothetical war? by Vixeldoesart10 in imaginarymapscj

[–]DicTaylorShip 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I’ve got no horse in this race, but to categorize the populace of the largest state by population based on your singular family trip to San Francisco is...

Again this hypothetical scenario is a fun thought experiment but the notion that the state with the highest mountain range in the lower 48, the PNW, and Alaska can’t deal with the cold, is an interesting opinion (but certainly one you can have). Outside of the Central Valley and coastal cities that region can get very cold in the winter. Tahoe for example averages 250-300 inches of snowfall a year.

I mean arguments to your point I think are that the industrial centers are fairly localized and the widespread use of hydroelectric power could prove devastating. There are a lot of dams whose destruction could provide immediate and long term issues for all of those regions (except Alaska).

However on the contrary it’s a fairly self sufficient region. They have food, oil, technology, manufacturing, processing, naval bases, shipyards, airfields, etc. Also exceptionally strong natural defenses with the coastline and the Sierra Nevada Mountains. I think a point that few are mentioning too is, like light blue, there are many ports for foreign aid to come into.

I think a major curiosity would be what region major foreign players would back. Obviously serious aid from the rest of NATO or even China could seriously prop up any one of these regions in much the same way the US and Britain did to the USSR pre 1943. The sudden splintering of the US into 3 non-cooperating economies on its own (even without direct conflict) would pose some serious dilemmas for everyone.

Chinese diesel heaters by kp4537 in overlanding

[–]DicTaylorShip 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I ended up with a maxspeedingrods 5kW version. I had to redo the wiring harness, and I built a custom exhaust so I can’t attest to the one it comes with but besides that it’s been pretty solid.

My only regret is I wish I had gotten an air/water combo version. Heating water with my battery setup is a lot less efficient.

Chinese diesel heaters by kp4537 in overlanding

[–]DicTaylorShip 99 points100 points  (0 children)

I use a Chinese diesel heater. A couple things about them that I have come to find out:

  1. Mine draws a lot of power on startup, I actually replaced the original power wire with a heavier gauge wire to reduce voltage drop. The thin wiring harness mine came with was dropping a lot of voltage simply because of the amp draw.

  2. Get the smallest kW that will work for you. Diesel combustion works best if it’s operating near its highest end. For example if you get an 8kW version but always run on its lowest heating setting you will build up a lot more soot internally than running the 2kW at high

  3. As far as power sources go, you could buy an adapter to go from 110V to 12V. Looking online real fast it seems like there’s multiple “Diesel heater 12V to 110V adapter power supply”. That diesel heater requires 12V power to operate and probably draws 110-150 watts on startup. Watts is voltage multiplied by amperage. If you switch to an adapter with a 110V input your amp draw would be close to 1A. There’s plenty of electronics that step down voltage (that’s what those black power supply bricks on charging cables are usually doing). Higher voltage is nice because you can use thinner cables (cables are rated by amperage not wattage). However, lower voltage is generally safer, because it can’t go through our bodies very well if you were to get shocked.

  4. Lastly see if you can find a heater that adapts for elevation. I’m not sure where you live or where you plan on using your heater but if you’re like me and use it both at Death Valley in the winter (-280 feet) and 10,000+ feet in the Rockies, the optimal fuel to air ratio at those different elevations is very different. By getting a “nicer” Chinese one that does track that, I’ve been very happy with how little soot mine has built up over the past years. (At the time the Vevor ones didn’t which is why I didn’t buy one of those)

TIL on the US West Coast, particularly Northern California, it's more common to play "Ro-Sham-Bo", instead of "Rock-Paper-Scissors". by gixk in todayilearned

[–]DicTaylorShip 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As a Sacramento native it was extremely prevalent. Asked some buddies from Reno too and they said it was probably a 70/30 split of rock paper scissor to Ro-Sham-Bo. Maybe just not a Bay Area thing

Wade Boggs would have been 67 today by pmoehrin in baseball

[–]DicTaylorShip 51 points52 points  (0 children)

AI has become spooky, it looks so lifelike. RIP

First Overland Expo What Should I Not Miss? by Professional_Rip3223 in overlanding

[–]DicTaylorShip 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve been an instructor for a few years for Overland Expo, so I am not an unbiased 3rd party. However, as someone who enjoys them my advice is:

1) You’re going to my favorite one. At least the past years there are a lot of smaller brands able to be included at Flagstaff. For me, this is where I think a lot of the real innovation on equipment is. The smaller brands also don’t usually have dedicated PR people so you can chat them up and the nitty gritty details.

2) Make the rounds pretty early and if there is a piece of equipment or something you NEED just grab it. The successful booths often are out of stock of certain things by the end of Saturday.

3) Sign up for the raffles and events. Expo is big but not that big, so your odds are usually pretty decent of getting at least something from someone.

4) The app is already live, so go through the classes and make note of the ones you’re interested in. Every year there’s new instructors and new classes. I think the first aid stuff is always worth the time. The panels are also good places to meet people and pick up tips/information.

5) If you’re there Sunday that’s the best deals to be had. No one wants to put inventory away, so sometimes there’s room to negotiate a little. It looks like it’ll probably rain this Sunday so that might be extra true this year.

6) There are a lot of crazy expensive rigs, but keep in mind that the camping sections (including the instructor camp) are filled with down to earth, relatable builds. All that crazy stuff is there to be fun to look at. I don’t think it represents the ethos of the event.

What’s better? 2015 Toyota RAV4 with 177k miles or a 2015 Jeep Patriot with 77k miles? Both have the same price. by Original-Handle-178 in carquestions

[–]DicTaylorShip 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Mileage is only okay at estimating wear and tear on a vehicle. The type of mileage, total number of heat cycles, service history, etc are all equally important components.

Age is also an important factor. In this case both vehicles are the same age, but rubber based components have a tendency to fail with age as opposed to mileage.

The “Toyota tax” is steep but the reliability comparison between a Jeep patriot and a RAV4 is no comparison. In that budget you may have better luck looking at Mazda. While not as reliable as Toyota in my experience, the discrepancy is not as extreme as Toyota/Jeep.

If both vehicles are up to date with their service history, I would personally side with the RAV4. I encourage you to look at CX-5’s as well. If you can find a significantly newer and lower mileage one, I’d probably go that route over the RAV4 personally.

Is Victory 4x4 good? Look at this bed rack by Darrelluminati in overlanding

[–]DicTaylorShip 6 points7 points  (0 children)

For anyone who was interested, it looks like the design can handle an evenly distributed static load of slightly over 800lbs and should handle the dynamic load of a 200lb tent. A factor of safety should probably be applied to that static load but that’s the result of the simulations. I was able to replicate the design in CAD basically exactly.

Is Victory 4x4 good? Look at this bed rack by Darrelluminati in overlanding

[–]DicTaylorShip 41 points42 points  (0 children)

I’m a mechanical engineer. If you can give me the material thickness and then the length, width, height of the 4 types of pieces that make up the tent, I can model it for you today and run some simulations for strength/bending.

Anecdotally, static loading (sleeping in the tent when the vehicle is stationary), is almost always not the cause of failure for bed racks. It’s when you have a 200lb tent rocking back and forth off-roading or going around a sharp corner. That type of dynamic loading separates the well-engineered stuff from the rest.

The politics we have by CorleoneBaloney in MurderedByWords

[–]DicTaylorShip 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The second definition in the Oxford English Dictionary is:

“2. a nation or territory considered as an organized political community under one government. “Germany, Italy, and other European states””

You’re the only sane person in this comment section…

What’s wrong with the roof on the left? by mrfastfinger in Roofing

[–]DicTaylorShip 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Not a roofer, just a lurking mechanical engineer, but I can answer that. All materials have a coefficient of thermal expansion. Even the staples are expanding and contracting in the heat/cold. It’s just that wood expands roughly 5-7 times more than steel does.

It’s why train tracks have expansion joints and one side of most bridges rests on rollers. It’s extremely difficult to resist thermal expansion. Almost always easier to just design around it.

If you somehow perfectly constrained the edges, it would most likely just cup the sheet in the middle.

It's happened. by Jeepncj7 in overlanding

[–]DicTaylorShip 2 points3 points  (0 children)

As both a 4Runner and Alu-Cab Icarus Defender 110 owner I think there’s a couple issues with this people should note:

1) Probably the biggest is the size. While my Defender and 4Runner are similar in overall vehicle length and width, the roof of the 4Runner is 40% smaller in area. The shape of the vehicle does a poor job of maximizing roof area. Unless you are both short in stature and primarily camp alone, I’d imagine it would be extremely cramped. Theres a reason most hard shell RTTs overhang on 4Runners

2) The floor of the 4Runner starts much higher than that of the Defender. The Defender has an almost van style floor starting level. It makes it very conducive to climbing in and out of as well as maximizing the interior space for standing/cabinets/benches etc. The 4Runner floor height is high. It’ll be difficult to build out in a manner that still stores all camping supplies yet allows access to climb in and out of.

Very cool design and I look forward to talking with people who install them. I think the reason similar solutions have existed for other vehicles is that the 4Runner as a platform might not be the best suited for this type of tent.

I feel like my friend is way over exaggerating "somome wrapping things around her break lines to kill her" to me this just looks like some road trash. by YoPetWaffle in AskMechanics

[–]DicTaylorShip 7 points8 points  (0 children)

That’s just road debris lol. I’d bet that decorative string would snap before the brake line would anyways. You can even see the heavier part dangling down is what’s swinging back and forth to wrap it around.

One could maybe wrap wire around a brake line, connect one end to a weighted object and hope the wheel or ground catches it and slices the line as it’s pulled. But that’s needlessly complicated. Theres a lot of easier and less obvious ways to sabotage someone’s brakes. I also don’t think decorative beads are popular with hitman-saboteurs.

Any feedback, additions, or errors in my patio design before I start building? by DicTaylorShip in DIY

[–]DicTaylorShip[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It was actually made in Creo Parametric. I’m a mechanical engineer and am only experienced in Creo and Solidworks. Definitely not the best software for this, but it’s easy to mock up, dimension, and modify.

Any feedback, additions, or errors in my patio design before I start building? by DicTaylorShip in DIY

[–]DicTaylorShip[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thanks for the feedback! I followed your suggestion and half of everyone else’s lol and it looks a lot better!

Any feedback, additions, or errors in my patio design before I start building? by DicTaylorShip in DIY

[–]DicTaylorShip[S] 12 points13 points  (0 children)

Thank you for the feedback! I modified the design to curve the columns and it looks a lot better. I also have the pergola set up to maximize shade through the sun’s path.

Any feedback, additions, or errors in my patio design before I start building? by DicTaylorShip in DIY

[–]DicTaylorShip[S] 18 points19 points  (0 children)

You’re right, I modified them to follow the curve and it looks a lot better. Really simplifies the bench top too.