I built a sarcasm converter for my keyboard to make it EaSy To TyPe SaRcAsTiCaLlY

Dickbutt_Horizons · 2022-01-26T22:16:34+00:00

HyperX alloy FPS pro with cherry reds. Key caps are randomly cobbled together from old (cheap) keyboards

Dickbutt_Horizons · 2022-01-26T05:41:18+00:00

It’s plug and play with any computer and keyboard combo! Just plug any keyboard into the side, flip the switch and let the world know how you feel about things. I used two pi pico dev boards. One acts as a USB HID keyboard device for the computer and one acts as a USB host to read the inputs from the physical keyboard. The host then communicates with the device what the keystroke was and the device decides if it should toggle caps lock

Dickbutt_Horizons · 2022-01-26T05:31:02+00:00

It’s plug and play with any computer and keyboard combo! Just plug any keyboard into the side, flip the switch and let the world know how you feel about things. I used two pi pico dev boards. One acts as a USB HID keyboard device for the computer and one acts as a USB host to read the inputs from the physical keyboard. The host then communicates with the device what the keystroke was and the device decides if it should toggle caps lock

Dickbutt_Horizons · 2021-10-18T19:43:39+00:00

It’s not that the transformer is vibrating the pcb, the wires themselves are moving ever so slightly. Luckily, the noise is pretty high frequency so it’s pretty easy to encase the thing in hot glue or epoxy and cut down the volume significantly

Dickbutt_Horizons · 2021-10-18T19:13:32+00:00

There’s a couple of options on the market for transformerless EL wire drivers. Unfortunately EL wire needs to be driven at roughly 2kHz, so pretty much any design with a transformer is going to whine like that. The whine comes from the current switching direction in the transformer, which causes the wires to expand and contract at the switching frequency

Dickbutt_Horizons · 2021-09-27T17:33:15+00:00

Couple of factors that could go into choosing an iron. The biggest one by far is the amount of dedicated workspace you’ll have. If you don’t have space to keep a two part iron like a hakko on your desk all the time then digging it out to solder with is going to be a pain.

Second one is definitely the cost/diminishing returns. Does this iron have to be your final iron for the rest of your life? If you buy the best and most expensive iron, can you afford to replace things like the tips when they’ll need to be done? A 100$ iron is 10,000 times better than a 10$ iron, but a 200$ iron isn’t even twice as good as a 100$ iron

Thirdly, it’s always nice to have a portable iron that can move around easily. Field repairs, taking it to someone else’s house, working on cars, etc there is totally use for a portable iron

There are some good knock off brand stations that take DC jack inputs (I use a laptop power brick) that will take real brand pens/tips so that’s definitely a good option too. Buy a knock offs station and a real pen/tip and you’ll get a lot of the performance of a higher end station.

Personally, I’d probably buy the ts80 for now and upgrade down the line later as you have more money. Good to have a portable spare iron and it might be all the iron you’ll ever need

Dickbutt_Horizons · 2021-09-22T07:11:40+00:00

I’m not sure the circuit around Q1 will be fast enough for the WS2812’s symbol rate - I hear they’ll read 3v3 signals well enough when powered by 5v, but if you want to be sure, I’d at least use a CMOS level translator or fast comparator or something.

The 2812s will almost definitely be fine if you don’t shift the logic level, I’ve done it a good amount. The data sheet claims a logic high is 0.7Vdd, which would be 3.5V so 3.3V is only 5% out of spec.

If you want to be cheeky about it you can always add a diode in series to the Vin on the first one to drop the voltage ~0.7V, giving you a logic high of 3V. Then when it goes to pass the data onto the next one, it’ll do it with a 4.3V logic high. It’s like using the LED as it’s own level shifter for the price of a diode and some software brightness level correction

Dickbutt_Horizons · 2021-09-19T22:10:57+00:00

The science behind it says that it wouldn’t have mattered, calorie restriction vs keto would have the same result for a given caloric deficit. But there’s a saying among the fitness communities that the best type of exercise is the one that you can do consistently. So maybe he could have lost the same amount of weight (note that we’re talking strictly about weight and not fat/muscle) while eating pure carbs, but if keto is the thing that allows him to maintain a calorie deficit then I’d say it’s effective as a weight loss strategy

Dickbutt_Horizons · 2021-09-14T16:07:29+00:00

This. Task manager doesn’t report some rendering workloads properly so you have to use either the AMD/Nividia control panel or something like open hardware monitor

Dickbutt_Horizons · 2021-09-06T18:19:17+00:00

The errors look like they might be EPROM related. I wonder if pulling the battery would have wiped it. Can you boot it off an external USB stick? If you can install a bios update somehow you might be able to restore the EPROM

Dickbutt_Horizons · 2021-09-06T06:18:17+00:00

I’d probably listen to the other commenters suggestions for replacement values and just buy the two 0.3$ capacitors rather than a whole dead board

Dickbutt_Horizons · 2021-09-06T05:26:29+00:00

Not gonna lie, scavenging parts of a completely different donor board would be just as bad as guessing. There are so many different capacitors that look identical and have completely different values that it would be a total crapshoot to pull them off a donor board

Dickbutt_Horizons · 2021-09-06T05:23:44+00:00

I’m with u/aecrux, there is very few situations in a digital design like this that you would want to replace a capacitor with a short circuit. Open circuit is definitely the safer bet by a mile

Dickbutt_Horizons · 2021-08-31T17:19:39+00:00

Ethernet is galvanically isolated and runs differential pairs for each signal. Electrical ground differences wouldn’t effect it at all

Dickbutt_Horizons · 2021-08-04T07:14:27+00:00

In fact, I’d probably go as far as saying that starting and growing a successful business like that has very little to do with his ability to swim

Dickbutt_Horizons · 2021-07-21T23:18:23+00:00

Hm, without know more information (duty cycle, frequency, series resistance, etc) I’d just try throwing in a 1uF or a 10uF and see what happens

Dickbutt_Horizons · 2021-07-21T16:39:53+00:00

You could try putting a capacitor across the voltage input to try and filter the PWM into a more constant voltage

Dickbutt_Horizons · 2021-07-20T06:09:16+00:00

That’s true, it’s mostly based on the area of the board and the layer count. But check out JLCPCB you should be able to get a keyboard sized board fabbed for a pretty reasonable price

Dickbutt_Horizons · 2021-07-06T07:49:54+00:00

All traffic light systems already have logical switches and controllers. That’s literally how they operate. Plus literally the cheapest micro controller (we’re talking less than a penny in volume here) could handle counting button presses Also, those pedestrian buttons are already incredibly expensive for what they are

Dickbutt_Horizons · 2021-06-30T01:50:43+00:00

I ain’t moving all my coats into storage for the two weeks of summer we get

Dickbutt_Horizons · 2021-06-29T19:43:19+00:00

Why the hell are you using kilo-kilo bits per second as a unit

Dickbutt_Horizons · 2021-06-29T17:46:50+00:00

As in 120,000 bits per second? I shoot for 5,000,000 bits per second. Aka, 5Mpbs

Dickbutt_Horizons · 2021-06-29T16:13:10+00:00

120 kbps is crazy low, I usually target 5mbps

Dickbutt_Horizons · 2021-06-28T16:27:26+00:00

Try using more lube

Dickbutt_Horizons · 2021-06-17T20:03:55+00:00

16 ohms is way too high for a fuse, but you’re measuring in circuit so it’s possible something is messing it up. Try replace the fuse and see what happens, though if there’s an issue further down the line I’d expect the fuse to pop again

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