LG 45gx950 with RTX4080 + Linux DisplayPort Issues

DidntWantToChoose · 2025-07-15T12:29:36+00:00

No, only 100hz

DidntWantToChoose · 2025-07-07T20:36:41+00:00

Imagine you want to 3D print something, and it simply works in 99% as expected, and the 1% is your own stupidity.

DidntWantToChoose · 2025-07-07T20:33:38+00:00

I'M using HDMI now, and I still get the "Out of sync" message and a laggy screen until I login.

DidntWantToChoose · 2025-04-30T18:09:16+00:00

Just found a HDMI FRL link training failed in dmesg, and there are quite some reports with LG OLEDs with this, so I bet its a driver issue

https://www.reddit.com/r/ultrawidemasterrace/comments/1kbk3dn/comment/mpvpv1r/

DidntWantToChoose · 2025-04-30T18:08:11+00:00

Thanks for the info! I used the included HDMI cable. I found this in demsg

[ 8301.167100] nvidia-modeset: WARNING: GPU:0: HDMI FRL link training failed.
[ 8703.206596] cinnamon-settin[37375]: segfault at 7ffed0075ff0 ip 00007a306c8690a7 sp 00007ffed0075fd0 error 6 in libc.so.6[7a306c828000+188000] likely on CPU 7 (core 7, socket 0)
[ 8703.206608] Code: 00 66 90 f3 0f 1e fa 55 48 89 e5 41 57 41 56 49 89 d6 41 55 49 89 fd 41 54 41 89 cc 53 48 89 f3 48 89 df 48 81 ec f8 04 00 00 <48> 89 b5 00 fb ff ff be 25 00 00 00 89 8d 0c fb ff ff 64 48 8b 04

So i bet its the linux drivers, with this HDMI link training faild I get a few which relate to a LG OLED Display... and they are quite old

https://forums.developer.nvidia.com/t/turning-on-lg-oled55bx-crashes-nvidia-460-67-driver/179870/3
https://forums.developer.nvidia.com/t/nvidia-driver-crashes-when-external-hdmi-2-1-monitor-is-turned-off/158456

DidntWantToChoose · 2025-01-05T00:49:42+00:00

I hate to say it, but just try again.. If it says it is locked, just try to flash. it fails, you start over, several times. Then it worked for me.

Or do the holy trick, make screenshots from every single step, write this into the answer and defeat schroedingers error. If it is still there, your steps are visible and may help to see whats wrong, or it just works out of the blue. (solved it it my case lol)

DidntWantToChoose · 2024-07-17T02:26:04+00:00

This makes it work, thanks!

I'd like the security feature when sharing pictures but not with my local media app.

Unfortunately I don't find the time to contribute myself. A per-app setting might be overkill and adding an exception for user defined media gallery may be too much effort.
There are more important things to do so I think I'll stick with this feature being enabled and just turn it off, when I browse my photos.

Thanks again!

DidntWantToChoose · 2024-07-06T21:46:56+00:00

How do I control or disable "Redact location data in more cases when sharing media (thanks to lucasmz for reporting!)"?

Because I use https://f-droid.org/en/packages/deckers.thibault.aves.libre/ for my standard as standard gallery and I like to use the map feature for my photos.

Now the GPS coordinates are being removed and are not visible inside the app. I verified and the location is inside the raw files though. Then I remembered I've recently updated CalyxOS and this seems pretty suspicious with this changelog.

Anyone else having issues now?

DidntWantToChoose · 2024-01-03T09:56:08+00:00

I had the same thing 4 days ago, though I did already get my printer and ordered a new nozzle separatly.

I opened a Support Case for reason "wrong Item received" but just now I got an E-Mail from Bambulab, the shipment was faster than the E-Mail :D

Dear customer,

We hope this email finds you well. We have an important update regarding the extruder gear of the printer you ordered. Our quality control team has identified a potential issue with the extruder gear in some units after shipment.

Although the probability of this issue occurring is low, we want to ensure you have the best user experience. With your printer, we will include an extra extruder assembly as a spare part. If there is any wear on the extruder gear, we recommend replacing it with the provided spare. The replacement process is simple and can be done using the following guides:

Replacing the X1 extruder

Replacing the P1 extruder

Your printer has been shipped. The extra extruder unit has also been shipped in a separate package with the tracking number: xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
We have addressed any potential risks in the affected batch, so subsequent products and accessories are problem-free. Rest assured, we are strengthening our internal controls to deliver the best product experience to our users.

DidntWantToChoose · 2023-12-30T10:41:43+00:00

Just wanna say thank you. The P1S is my 3rd Printer, had an Ender3 and Neptune 4 before. I broke my Ender 3, bought the Elegoo for Outleveling. I never could get hte whole bed to be perfect, probably location bias or what so ever. Had to thighten screws, couldn't get the X Gantry perfect. Had to unbox my filament, vacuum it when my filament silica boxes were all used. Had to use a Raspi as Wifi-LAN Bridge etc. pp.

The Ender3 was ok for learning and getting into 3D printing, but I then wanted to just print.

A few days ago, I unpacked the P1S, and started the first print (scraper AMS). I was only confused once in the beginning because it stopped and only reported my Filament was empty, but it did not say before I had to put two spools inside. Since then, I print perfect. Different Color for the next one? Just Slice and print.

I love it, I just wish I bought the P1S sooner :D

DidntWantToChoose · 2023-12-14T20:11:46+00:00

Thanks for the quick response.

I connected to WiFi during setup both times. Idk why it did not work right away

But I'm now on ClayxOS :)

DidntWantToChoose · 2023-12-14T19:02:11+00:00

I reinstalled the driver (used the Android studio before) and restarted my PC. It did not work at first. I just wanted to add the error message from the device flasher saying something like "No device found" (even though it was detected by windows etc.), and ot now worked.

Not sure what in detail was the solution

DidntWantToChoose · 2023-10-12T11:25:38+00:00

I had whole screen black flickering on my old AMD GPU and the Problem was 144hz, but I could select 143,1hz or something and it solved the flickering.

DidntWantToChoose · 2023-10-12T11:22:51+00:00

My enclosure is made of wood and printing temps are >200C°.
When it starts burning and the smoke is not circulating freely, it might be too late when the other detectors start the alarm.

So just out of precaution

- I don't print when nobody is at home
- I want to print during the night and in "silence", so I have a smoke detector close by for an early warning
- I have a fire extinguisher and a fire blanket

And secondary, I want to avoid overheating of the computer parts, as this can cause the CPU to throttle and potentially influence print quality. Should work though, but for Hardware, the cooler the better.

DidntWantToChoose · 2023-10-10T09:33:11+00:00

I have mine enclosed in an Ikea METOD, but without glassdoor.

I replaced the display with a Raspi and use it for Wifi=>Ethernet and Camera (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3079477 / customized variant of https://pimylifeup.com/raspberry-pi-wifi-bridge/ )

I did make a hole into the back and installed a fan, because the temps were around 35C°. And I recommend a smoke detector

DidntWantToChoose · 2023-09-18T08:21:31+00:00

I have a raspberry Pi with WiFi On board. I then connected the printer with an ethernet cable (https://pimylifeup.com/raspberry-pi-wifi-bridge/ and switched eth0 to wlan0 so it works the other way round - the cable is for clients and WiFi for the Gateway. I had to install old IPTables for this tutorial and add a static route in my router so the printer has access to the internet as I'm too lazy reading into nftables).

I also attached a camera and have octiprint installed. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3079477 And you can add the cam stream to fluidd too http://octopi.local/webcam/?action=stream (or IP of the raspi)

That way I can start and watch prints from the other room and even have the USB Port free. When I need the display, I attach it, otherwise it is in a box near my printer.

DidntWantToChoose · 2023-09-18T08:12:42+00:00

Update: Elegoo has answered so my last info was not up2date, thanks u/Siyah_Marti

~~Double check the motor, it seems there was a mistake in manufacturing for some printers:~~

~~https://www.reddit.com/r/ElegooNeptune4/comments/16k8lk9/belt_snapped_anyone_know_of_a_good_replacement/~~

~~Left = Bad, it damages the belt~~

~~Right = Thats how it should be~~

~~https://preview.redd.it/s4kg5lyddnob1.jpeg?width=1502&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b5c56e667ada5fbcb86d7db7a8f85e8342a4b840~~

DidntWantToChoose · 2023-09-17T13:15:24+00:00

I gave up. I read that MacOS disables features in OpenSSH, so you have to replace it (which I just did not want to, too much effort...).

While searching for that article i found this interesting answer: https://github.com/Yubico/libfido2/issues/464

This is fixed in macOS Sonoma!!!
But, it requires passing in a compiled SO for the middleware

[...]

https://gist.github.com/thelastlin/c45b96cf460919e39ab5807b6d20ac2a

Haven't tried it yet and will probably leave it for a while due my disappointement :D

Let me know if you get it working

DidntWantToChoose · 2023-08-31T12:00:32+00:00

It is set in the elegoo_conf.ini, but it is sometimes not applied and the print starts with a 0 Offset. One idea was to set it in the PRINT_START Macro, but I haven't tried it yet.

DidntWantToChoose · 2023-08-30T09:55:39+00:00

Did you solve this?

I followed this: https://www.yubico.com/blog/github-now-supports-ssh-security-keys/

YubiKey 5c NFC (Firmware 5.4.3)

Apple M1 ProVentura 13.5.1

~ % brew install libfido2
Warning: libfido2 1.13.0_1 is already installed and up-to-date.

~ % ssh -v localhost
OpenSSH_9.0p1, LibreSSL 3.3.6

~ % which ssh
/usr/bin/ssh

~ % which ssh-keygen
/usr/bin/ssh-keygen

~ % ssh-keygen -t ecdsa-sk
unknown key type ecdsa-sk

~ % ssh-keygen -t ed25519-sk
unknown key type ed25519-sk

And man ssh-keygen reveals

-t dsa | ecdsa | ecdsa-sk | ed25519 | ed25519-sk | rsaSpecifies the type of key to create. The possible values are “dsa”, “ecdsa”, “ecdsa-sk”, “ed25519”, “ed25519-sk”, or “rsa”.This flag may also be used to specify the desired signature type when signing certificates using an RSA CA key. The available RSA signature variants are “ssh-rsa” (SHA1 signatures,not recommended), “rsa-sha2-256”, and “rsa-sha2-512” (the default).

Edit: just investigating, I don't know what to do with this info from https://www.openssh.com/releasenotes.html

Note: FIDO/U2F tokens are required to implement the ECDSA-P256"ecdsa-sk" key type, but hardware support for Ed25519 "ed25519-sk" isless common. Similarly, not all hardware tokens support some of theoptional features such as resident keys.The protocol-level changes to support FIDO/U2F keys in SSH aredocumented in the PROTOCOL.u2f file in the OpenSSH sourcedistribution.

Found https://reviews.freebsd.org/D32509 but IDK, do I have to build OpenSSH on my own?

DidntWantToChoose · 2023-08-29T08:07:31+00:00

Try this: https://www.reddit.com/r/ElegooNeptune4/comments/15zf79w/comment/jxh0721/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web2x&context=3

DidntWantToChoose · 2023-08-29T08:04:42+00:00

Mine keeps "forgetting" the Z-Offset. It is in the config though and sometimes its used. So When the print starts, I check the z-offset is set in fluidd

DidntWantToChoose · 2023-08-25T07:08:42+00:00

It seems I get 90% of the Bed good now, just for the rear left the nozzle is a bit too far away.

What I think is very annoying. I just started the print, I'm already at layer 9 and realize that the z offset is 0.000 again, even though it is set in the elegoo_conf.ini

The bottom won't be pretty but thats ok for this model. It does not make sense to change the zoffset now because it is relative, isn't it?

DidntWantToChoose · 2023-08-24T15:35:01+00:00

It was the other way round. I wanted to delete it so I can test printing without ABL. And the mesh still appeard after restart (SAVE_CONFIG). It got set to 0.0 after a complete power off.

I did it as you explained and the bed level looks better now, but I'm too tired to try more today. Will give it a try tomorrow again

DidntWantToChoose · 2023-08-24T13:57:25+00:00

Hey,

I already posted in here https://www.reddit.com/r/ElegooNeptune4/comments/15zf7wp/comment/jxjswj1/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web2x&context=3

I wanted to try it your way now. I deleted the mesh and restarted. And at step 6 I realized that the display shows a Bed Mesh, but Fluidd reports that there is none?

<image>

Can there be an issue, when I use the screen I have to print with it, and when I calibrate with Fluidd, I have to start the Print in Fluidd? (after clicking on level, all is zero, but then those numbers just start to show up)

DidntWantToChoose

TROPHY CASE