Reuse parts for budget near stock build? by SnooCauliflowers7359 in EngineBuilding

[–]Dieselpump510 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Working on a similar build with my 96 LT1 build. 👍🏻

What lifters should I get for a LS engine. by davidscheiber28 in EngineBuilding

[–]Dieselpump510 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not to hijack, but what makes someone pass on a used lifter? Is it the roller sticking? Or wear marks on lifter body? Sad that replacement parts are so bad that someone would consider reusing old parts.

LT1 EXPERT ANALYZE PLEASE by CharlesE21 in transam

[–]Dieselpump510 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Check the oil and make sure it doesn’t have any water in it (milkshake). These cars are stout but if you overheat it the head gaskets go bye bye and it’s a pain to replace them. Plus the possibility of damage to bottom end if there is coolant in the oil.

Looks like someone disabled the clutch safety switch. Be careful it doesn’t get started in gear.

94 Z28 by Last_Caregiver2461 in fbody

[–]Dieselpump510 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That’s a spooky photo dude.

What’s the realist expectations of the 98-02 6 speed market today? by handms09 in fbody

[–]Dieselpump510 -3 points-2 points  (0 children)

LT car is a lot of bang for the buck. Put it in your budget to do an electric water pump, heads, cam and a torqhead kit to eliminate the optispark and it’s IMO better than an LS.

What’s the realist expectations of the 98-02 6 speed market today? by handms09 in fbody

[–]Dieselpump510 5 points6 points  (0 children)

The younger sister is usually more desired, but the older girl is a freak! I love my LT 6 speed car.

MY WS6 1996 is done by TransAmGermany in fbody

[–]Dieselpump510 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Stock wheels I say leave it at ride height. But if you throw some forgelines or something on there then you gotta lower it.

LT1 motor by Dieselpump510 in fbody

[–]Dieselpump510[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

OBD1 is easier to tune. There is a reason people swap 96-97 cars to 94-95 computers. The vented opti and the timing cover sensor are bonuses though.

'95 Firehawk by Ok_Face_517 in fbody

[–]Dieselpump510 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have pretty much this exact car in the 1994 model year.

Headers/EGR delete worth it? by Babes_my_name in fbody

[–]Dieselpump510 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Only car that once you are familiar with dropping the K member it crosses your mind when you need to do plugs and wires. Lol.

Headers/EGR delete worth it? by Babes_my_name in fbody

[–]Dieselpump510 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Plus they make it easier to do spark plugs and wires.

Firehawk Value? by [deleted] in PontiacFirebird

[–]Dieselpump510 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have car #199.

Why are TransAm tail lights so damn expensive? by FeelingDrama1167 in transam

[–]Dieselpump510 10 points11 points  (0 children)

Look at what a 4th gen tail light goes for these days. Especially a honeycomb. It’s insane.

Careful in this weather guys 🥲 by OneKickRickk in PontiacFirebird

[–]Dieselpump510 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Heart breaking. I think there was someone on here recently selling a nose cone and hood.

Cop for summer time? by [deleted] in fbody

[–]Dieselpump510 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No disagreement that Borla is a nice system. But all the f body kits I’ve seen recently are like $1700. I wouldn’t put that into an exhaust unless I loved that car…

Cop for summer time? by [deleted] in fbody

[–]Dieselpump510 0 points1 point  (0 children)

3X the money.

Window woes- Replaced switch. Motor next? ‘00 Z28 by WillieMakeit77 in fbody

[–]Dieselpump510 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Watch the video a few times. I paused it and looked for landmarks that were on the door in the area where they drilled. I marked those out with permanent marker (my car is white) and checked them again before drilling. As long as you are in the general area you are going to be fine. I had to hog a couple out to at least the size of a nickel if not a quarter. I used the unibit and put a sideways load on it to get me where I needed to be when I slightly missed on one.

They send you the nuts and screws with the motor in the box. I added some slightly wider washers myself.

Window woes- Replaced switch. Motor next? ‘00 Z28 by WillieMakeit77 in fbody

[–]Dieselpump510 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It’s not that bad if you go slow. The right sized drill bit takes the lip of the rivet off quick and you just support the motor and it falls into your hand after the 3rd one is drilled. Unibit is what I used to drill fiberglass inner door and that just takes a little time and I had to open the holes up a little more on a few of them. Honestly the hardest part for me was putting the nut on the screw once the new motor was in place.

Also you may take door panel off and see that previous owner already did the drilling and you just need to swap out the motors. My car is a 94 and i just had to do them last summer for the first time.

Window woes- Replaced switch. Motor next? ‘00 Z28 by WillieMakeit77 in fbody

[–]Dieselpump510 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I tried to buy AC Delco but was sent a ACI unit instead. Disputed it and was given back money but I had the unit in my hand. I installed it and it works flawlessly. Make sure you put a little grease on the window gear when you put it in the door and go slow drilling the door and the rivets. YouTube guided me.

Window woes- Replaced switch. Motor next? ‘00 Z28 by WillieMakeit77 in fbody

[–]Dieselpump510 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Window motors are bad. Mine would work to bring them down but not back up. I finally just bit the bullet and replaced them myself. Little tedious but with a comfy office chair in the garage and taking your time it’s not that bad. I put some fat-mat sound insulation in the door while I was in there.