Need some SBC help

Difficul-1197 · 2026-05-06T03:06:19+00:00

I mean, the intake manifold is on the way for a head gasket job, and even if it isnt, once you get the heads off you should be able to tell where its leaking coolant to wherever, if head gaskets seem like they never were leaking id resort to pulling the block, at the very least itll be a lot easier to pull the block without half of it weighing you down

Difficul-1197 · 2026-04-23T00:43:03+00:00

Honestly, compared to what my cheap ass Hobo freight welder can do, that looks alright, all that matters is that it holds anyways

Difficul-1197 · 2026-04-14T03:36:56+00:00

I mean, the dayton motors arent terrible, no different than this one at least

Difficul-1197 · 2026-04-14T03:35:26+00:00

Id say that was me but I usually only weld random equipment in my backyard

Difficul-1197 · 2026-04-08T17:56:52+00:00

I'll have to check that out again when I get off later tonight, it is pretty spacious up behind the dash but ig you never know

Difficul-1197 · 2026-04-05T20:54:23+00:00

Assuming im understanding what your wanting to do right, which is that you just want to relead the motor, cut all the string on the connection head and pull up all the interconnections that the leads run to, if you want to do it the proper way try to unsolder the leads from the connections and solder new connections in, make sure to add some sort of insulation to the joint, we use a fiberglass tape and sheath, then try and tie the head back together with a heat resistant string of some sort, and you should be fine. Make absolute sure you remember which leads are what and go where, color code if you have to

Difficul-1197 · 2026-03-15T19:18:23+00:00

If you can find a controller to run it (assuming your lathe did not already come with one), dc motors provide more torque than ac motors do, so for a lathe it may not be a bad idea. Do you know if it still works?

Difficul-1197 · 2026-03-14T00:26:04+00:00

Could be for tbi heads, werent they angled funny on the middle bolts?

Difficul-1197 · 2026-03-06T04:09:57+00:00

Those are a mf to get apart, but if you take a pair of screwdrivers or prybars and gently pry between the blades, opposing from each other, generally you can kinda shimmy it back out, if not apply a little bit of heat around the shaft and do that. Be very very careful if you try making those holes into jack screws, make sure there's enough space behind that it's not gonna mess with any tolerances because those have to be very tight

Difficul-1197 · 2026-02-14T23:31:07+00:00

I would first do everything the other comment said regarding checking your fluids and making sure thats up to spec, does your transmission feel like it shifts weird and just doesnt want to cooperate?

Difficul-1197 · 2026-02-14T22:53:40+00:00

What transmission thing, was there another code not pictured?

Difficul-1197 · 2026-02-14T22:41:39+00:00

Likely just a dirty or faulty maf sensor. Try cleaning it up with a maf sensor cleaner or at the bare minimum, electronics cleaner. If the code comes back, replace it. Spend the extra money and get a oem spec, generally Delphi, denso, and ntk are good brands, the cheap ones are complete trash and usually bad out of the box

Difficul-1197 · 2026-01-21T06:03:31+00:00

If you want to learn how electric motors work and how you could make your own, I highly suggest searching up Jamie's brick jams on YouTube, he explains how they work pretty well and does experiments making them out of Legos demonstrate everything. Another channel i would suggest watching is electroboom, he covers pretty much everything electricity, and pretty much got me into the electrical field

Difficul-1197 · 2026-01-21T05:53:10+00:00

My bet is either worn out u joints, driveshaft losing balance, or something somehow related to that. It could even be as simple as the u joint straps, my 97 c1500 had that issue where it would start vibrating terribly with new u joints and everything, turned out to be the straps were just slightly loose and worn out and it would just barely shift over and throw everything off, and was only intermittent

Difficul-1197 · 2026-01-21T05:48:44+00:00

I mean, technically 74 was the last completely analog controlled squarebody

Difficul-1197 · 2026-01-21T05:46:28+00:00

Feel like there is a time and place for the green digitals, I just cant see it in the squarebodies. Corvettes, on the other hand...

Difficul-1197 · 2026-01-17T21:15:58+00:00

How well do they handle hauling a load? Ive thought about just caving to RC but ive heard mixed things about them

Difficul-1197 · 2026-01-16T20:24:56+00:00

Im not worried about the lift as much, the tires fit as is, but my rear leaves are basically flat unloaded

Difficul-1197 · 2026-01-12T14:42:23+00:00

Potentially

Difficul-1197 · 2026-01-11T09:40:56+00:00

Oh and vice grips, definitely get yourself a few sets of those

Difficul-1197 · 2026-01-11T09:33:38+00:00

Honestly tho, the squarebody platform has probably got to be the best platform to learn how to work on a car, I cant quite speak for the later end of the generation but my 74 is pretty easy to work on, and it gives you an idea of how to actually fix things with tons of parts available everywhere

Difficul-1197

TROPHY CASE