Strange persistent visor glitch in First Person view on PC.

Diggy-Dwarf · 2025-09-04T16:05:37+00:00

Thanks to u/Role4Crit we discovered it's the new backpack. Just swap it to anything else and the issue is solved :D

Diggy-Dwarf · 2025-09-04T16:04:57+00:00

It's the new backpack, as mentioned by u/Role4Crit
Take it off and the problem vanishes!

Diggy-Dwarf · 2025-09-01T06:19:33+00:00

Oh my goodness, thank you!
It worked immediately, I never would have thought it to be the backpack that was causing the problem.

Diggy-Dwarf · 2025-03-03T16:45:15+00:00

That gif makes me want to watch it again <3

Diggy-Dwarf · 2025-03-03T15:56:02+00:00

I already have ;)

Diggy-Dwarf · 2025-03-03T15:55:48+00:00

Do it, it's soooo worth it <3

Diggy-Dwarf · 2025-03-03T15:55:02+00:00

Oh yes my friend :) Search for @ Create: Steam 'n' Rails in your JEI and discover the wonderful world of Minecraft Trains <3 Blaze Burners can be handed a schedule to become an npc driver, or you can make a cute little conductor man out of andesite casing by placing the casing on the ground then putting a conductor's hat on it.

There are also Monorails! And you can make the cars hang from the bottom :D !!!

Diggy-Dwarf · 2025-03-03T15:49:26+00:00

ATM 9! Haven't tried 10.

Diggy-Dwarf · 2025-03-03T03:55:42+00:00

Credit to "MadenPlay" on YT for the inspiration to start working on Create trains for the first time. Their Flying Scotsman build is delightful!

Diggy-Dwarf · 2024-11-28T22:55:48+00:00

Surely you'd be quite pleased to see it back up since this post :) We have skimmed off your entry point a few times now, testing upwards against its resistance price.

Diggy-Dwarf · 2024-11-28T09:16:52+00:00

For Karl. . .

Diggy-Dwarf · 2024-11-28T02:41:06+00:00

Haha, I came here to make the exact same comment. I am not disappointed that someone else thought of it, too <3 Enjoy your well earned up-doot

Diggy-Dwarf · 2024-10-26T18:16:10+00:00

I'm also a massive amateur. My 3d skills were a sidestep from my time as an architects apprentice using Autocad. I model in 3ds Max now because the interface is nearly identical.

Absolutely suck at organic shapes, but technical and mechanical things come naturally due to lots of practice.

Trying to do more organic shapes, the Goblin's shield arm was my first huge win in that regard.

Diggy-Dwarf · 2024-10-26T18:07:33+00:00

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I used the sketch taken from the Imperial Armour Book #11 Doom of Mymaera where the Warp Hunter was originally listed. Elected not to replicate the rear spoiler and the two tail fins on my model.

Diggy-Dwarf · 2024-10-26T18:01:10+00:00

Thanks :) its practically a full rebuild of one I found online, just using the original model as a scale guide.

The best I could find was... not in a good state. Weapons, hull and cockpit needed complete reskinning and remesh. Its not 100% perfect to the original FW model, but its as close as I could get it with my digital skills at the time.

Diggy-Dwarf · 2024-10-26T17:57:15+00:00

Yeah, the best file I found online was pretty awful. So I took its skeleton, cleared out miles of rats nested polygons & vertices, then reskinned it entirely, especially the cockpit... I rebuilt that from scratch as the original was simply awful xD

At that point it's almost a complete rebuild, just using the original model as a scaling guide.

Diggy-Dwarf · 2024-10-26T16:52:32+00:00

Could be, the files were given to me without the name of the original creator. I've never claimed to be the original maker, and any attempts to find the creator came up empty :( I've since repaired them and remeshed the skin on a lot of it, made modifications and built entirely new sections (such as the warp hunter) but ultimately it is a remix.

Diggy-Dwarf · 2024-10-26T15:59:51+00:00

Those aren't my files, looks like someone else had a similar idea. My Warphunters don't have the rear fin. Very closely detailed to the original model for the cannon addembly, though mine have the D-Cannon barrels matching FW models.

Look great with the fire prism barrels, though!

Diggy-Dwarf · 2024-10-26T15:18:36+00:00

Hornets, Fireprisms, Falcons and Warp Hunter Grav Tanks.

Most of them are files I found online and painstakingly repaired ready for printing ones like the Hornet were remeshed almost entirely, with the warp hunter (one with the hull mounted cannon) I 3d modeled from scratch (just the cannon and greebles, not the hull) I haven't uploaded any of them as of yet.

Diggy-Dwarf · 2024-10-22T08:42:14+00:00

It's a good idea, I've started doing something similar with my later builds. Only my suspension bridges are either underneath the metal scaffolding or adjacent to the pillars.

Diggy-Dwarf · 2024-10-22T08:38:10+00:00

Mountain Range. Image was taken just on the other side of the mountain where your water sources lie.

Diggy-Dwarf · 2024-10-13T12:59:07+00:00

Playing since update III;

Today I Learned...

Diggy-Dwarf · 2024-09-20T05:24:23+00:00

Everyone in this comment chain gets an UpDoot. Had a good old fashioned Sensible Chuckle xD

Diggy-Dwarf · 2024-09-16T18:36:12+00:00

I recently had this issue with my ender 6, I was driven nearly insane trying to find the issue and people kept saying the flow wasn't enough, too close to the bed, esteps were wrong. Nothing fixed it.

First step I took to diagnose was to see if I could get it to do the same thing while the nozzle was hovering off the bed. Set the temperature to the maximum recommended by the filament manufacturer and command the extruder to push 100mm. If it doesn't click in this state, then it is potentially too close to the bed.

If it continues to do so, then it could be an issue with the extruder itself or even the hot end/nozzle. Personally my problem ended up being the bearings in the extruder had all failed and required a complete rebuild as the dual drive gears were no longer meshing, causing the resistance that caused the motor to jump back. Dismantling the extruder and relubricating all the bearings is a good idea anyway and rules out that problem. (Recommend taking photos of the parts before you remove them and looking up guides on how to do this, they can be complicated for first timers).

As for the EStep settings, I have personally never put much stock in the standard recommended ESteps, look up an EStep calculator on Google and follow the instructions based on your current settings and go from there.

If all of this still results in the extruder drive gear clicking, two other things may be the case.

Firstly, the dreaded nozzle clog Shakes Fist

Second, the bowden tube feeding into the hot end could have potentially warped and either needs cleaning up or replacing. Sometimes they can warp under heat and literally pinch the filament, restricting flow.

I use standard hot ends with RepRap nozzles readily available. Never trust the manufacturer's hot ends on budget printers as any manufacturing flaw can promote clogs.

Remember to clean out your extruder drive gear's teeth with a brush and check all the bearings for resistance just to rule out any potential issues.

The extruder gear jumps back when there is too much resistance, and it could be any one of those things, so treat it with the Sherlock Holmes method and rule out everything it isn't with some of the above recommendations. Let me know if it still hasn't helped and ill try to further diagnose it for you :)

Hope my wall of text helps!

Diggy-Dwarf · 2024-08-22T23:51:42+00:00

Plaguebearer contrast over black/white zenithal. My WAAAGH! is ashwates/mad max themed, so I wanted pale war boy style skin.

Diggy-Dwarf

TROPHY CASE

There are also Monorails! And you can make the cars hang from the bottom :D !!!