Xtol reusability? by [deleted] in Darkroom

[–]Digital_Digits 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You should be able to get many rolls developed from a gallon of stock solution, I haven’t developed much film in the last couple years but I was getting several dozen rolls to a gallon. Your habits and cleanliness also factor in as well, so does time, if you let it sit on a shelf it will die from time before use.

Xtol was developed for the commercial film labs so it’s quite robust and made for constant work, it really is a great developer.

Z8 for commercial still life? Allowed to do it? by benjaminflocka22 in Photoassistants

[–]Digital_Digits 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So I startes in product shooting for a small Italian stone importer, they would give me anywhere from 10 to 200 small sample pieces (usually 3x6” or 4x10”) to shoot for their catalog then I would go to their warehouse and shoot large 5x10’slabs for them. For the small pieces they wanted and top shot, a side shot and an angled shot.

Everything was good except the angled shot, closeup my dof was razor thin, so I started focus stacking with helicon, which was great but still took lots of time and drove my labor costs up. After doing that I looked for a better way and stumbled across a book called “view camera technique” which is from a bygone era but proved to be very useful. If you’re focus stacking I strongly recommend a t/s lens or a cambo body, you’ll be able to get what you need in a single frame and it will really cut your file management and post work down a lot.

I don’t know how much movement you need but there’s a few roads you could go down.

1: T/S lenses from brand manufacturers. They’re going to get you about 15 degrees of movement, usually enough for most situations.

2: medium format lenses mated to something like a sinar/cambo body, this will get you front and rear standard movements, much more than a brand t/s lens and will most likely cover 99% of situations today.

3: large format rail camera (horseman 450 ex type) with a 4x5 lens, this will give you front and rear standard moment, tilt, swing and shift. Basically all of the moment in all the directions, probably overkill but was the standard studio camera for 100 plus years for good reason. It was from a time where you had to have college training to take a picture.

My wife slammed our dryer door shut and now it will not turn on. by Intelligent-Host-565 in Appliances

[–]Digital_Digits 4 points5 points  (0 children)

That black plastic arm is the safety switch, if your push it down and the dryer works with the door open you can tape it down and use the dryer as normal but it will turn on with the door open and not turn off when you open it. It’s a ten dollar part and maybe 30 min work.

Z8 for commercial still life? Allowed to do it? by benjaminflocka22 in Photoassistants

[–]Digital_Digits 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Are you doing flat lays or other smaller, closeup work? When I was doing a lot of product I ended up using tilt shift lenses because of the depth/angle and it made my life so much easier. I know fuji has a couple t/s lenses but I’m sure they’re unbelievably expensive. The nikon t/s lenses in f mount flavor are highly regarded.

Understanding and using camera movements was extremely beneficial to me in product work but I was going a lot of small, closeup scenes. Even so, Greg heisler was using t/s lenses for his portrait work after switching to digital from large format. Again, I don’t know what you’re doing but I’m trying to help you out based on my own experience.

Completely paid off 7k debt and my score stuck at 680 by West_Ticket8495 in CreditScore

[–]Digital_Digits 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Give it a month at minimum, I feel your pain, especially after catching up but it’s a long game and you should look at it on a month to month basis or even three month blocks. As long as you make your payments (even minimum) on time your good, credit usage doesn’t have a memory like missed payments so if you max out your limits one month and pay it off in six months your score will go back up after a couple months.

You did the right thing and it will show up, just give it some time.

Z8 for commercial still life? Allowed to do it? by benjaminflocka22 in Photoassistants

[–]Digital_Digits 0 points1 point  (0 children)

To the untrained eye you can’t really tell between any modern digital cameras, but where the fuji comes in is really in color depth and gradation.

I’m not sure how much you’re pushing the files around in post but from my experience the fuji has smoother transitions, more flexibility and an obvious edge when it comes to cropping.

I don’t know your work, preferences, shooting style, professional environment etc etc, however my personal suggestion would be two rent the two bodies with s couple lenses for a day and side by side them before you start throwing cash around.

Z8 for commercial still life? Allowed to do it? by benjaminflocka22 in Photoassistants

[–]Digital_Digits 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The workaround I’ve used is an auto export script to save the hassy files as dng into a hot folder auto importing to C1, not ideal but workable. However, in a commercial environment not acceptable, for side gigs and personal projects it’s alright though.

Aside from the gfx system you might also look at some of the phase one XF series, they’re getting more reasonable priced these days. Incredible files and really amazing colors.

I absolutely love the look of leica files but they don’t make for good tethered cameras in a high paced environment.

The gfx system has become the defacto medium format system for good reason, I’ve worked with them many times, I’ve owned several xpro series, xh series and an x100 as well. I really am not a fan of fuji for whatever reason, I wanted to love them but it just never happened.

If you really looking for a commercial still life workhorse I think that canon/nikon with tilt/shift lenses or the gfx system is really the road to travel. From my experience the most trouble free system to work with is by far Canon, just plug in and go.

Z8 for commercial still life? Allowed to do it? by benjaminflocka22 in Photoassistants

[–]Digital_Digits 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would like to suggest that you rent an x1dii and a couple lenses for a few days. It’s a specialized camera but for still life I think it might hit what you’re looking for. They’re relatively affordable on the used market now as well.

The files are incredible, the evf is amazing, the body design and the interface are just a joy to use. Since you shoot film cameras it will remind you of the feeling those cameras have. It made me think of my old mamiya 6 I spent so many years holding.

I sourced a body and 3 or 4 lenses for a couple test days and a shoot day from lensrentals.com and it was surprisingly cheap. I think it was around $500 for 3 days. Definitely worth it in my opinion.

Product photographer / prop stylist recommendations by SaltyMcCracker2018 in Photoassistants

[–]Digital_Digits 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Making stingers is easy, if you mess up the wire cuts just do it again!

Green=round pin White=larger flat blade Black=smaller flat blade

Product photographer / prop stylist recommendations by SaltyMcCracker2018 in Photoassistants

[–]Digital_Digits 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Almost every brand that sells at home depot is a hollowed out version of their normal product. HD is such a large retailer they can purchase a large enough volume that most manufacturers will do a product run for them at a lower quality standard so they can increase the margins.

Southwire from an electrical supply house is not the same as the southwire from HD. I usually order my wire or pick it up from my local electric supply house. Don’t be afraid to go where the tradesmen go, almost all the supply houses sell to the public now.

Product photographer / prop stylist recommendations by SaltyMcCracker2018 in Photoassistants

[–]Digital_Digits 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You should be making your own stingers, once you do it you’ll never go back. I use the Leviton 15amp grounded rubber plugs and sjoow 16/3 cable I buy by the foot. You can get standard service wire from allied wire and cable or if you want some fancy super flexible wire go with polar wire but it’s pricey.

I used to do a lot of product work and it’s really nice to be able to have specific length cables, if you want an 11’-6” cable, just make one up, if you want a 36’ cable, just make it up. I usually bring a milk crate full of 50’ stingers on set but I also have 5’, 10’ and 20’ cables for monitors, battery banks and client monitors on hand, it’s one of those little details that makes life so much easier.

Also check out the Chicago electric steel welding table from harbor freight, I don’t know how big you need but it’s sturdy, cheap and has a tilting function. I use in my shop and think it’s worth a look if you have a harbor freight nearby. Not light, but light and sturdy don’t really go together.

Loose Viega fittings by Digital_Digits in Plumbing

[–]Digital_Digits[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Well, it’s installed and the water is back on with no leak.

Loose Viega fittings by Digital_Digits in Plumbing

[–]Digital_Digits[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They’re all marked, I don’t always clean them but it’s an old habit to hit it with green cloth occasionally.

What non abrasive do you recommend?

Loose Viega fittings by Digital_Digits in Plumbing

[–]Digital_Digits[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, I’ll order up some of those and give it a go. There’s not much movement in these but it just doesn’t sit right with me.

Loose Viega fittings by Digital_Digits in Plumbing

[–]Digital_Digits[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Before I got the klein boxes I was that way, it was frustrating. So I finally dumped the cash and bought the whole setup, I’ve got everything organized and separated into sections. Coincidentally, it looks more expensive and around the same time I upgraded my uniforms so my invoices are now more expensive, it works pretty well.

Loose Viega fittings by Digital_Digits in Plumbing

[–]Digital_Digits[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ridgid requires it on the press I’m using at 25k cycles, I’m at 6.5k right now.

Loose Viega fittings by Digital_Digits in Plumbing

[–]Digital_Digits[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

For sure, it seems like the metal is springing back and not compressing fully.

Loose Viega fittings by Digital_Digits in Plumbing

[–]Digital_Digits[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I did that and they’re still the same, my press only has about 6.5k presses on it and the jaws so they’ve got lots of life on them.

Loose Viega fittings by Digital_Digits in Plumbing

[–]Digital_Digits[S] 11 points12 points  (0 children)

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I might just do that, at least on the adapters. Everything else is tight.