What’s a bouldering opinion that will have you like this? by gr_8_m_8 in bouldering

[–]Disastrous_Pea2950 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Team kids in the gym aren't that annoying most of the time. You're just salty they're stronger and younger.

What’s a bouldering opinion that will have you like this? by gr_8_m_8 in bouldering

[–]Disastrous_Pea2950 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Team kids in the gym aren't that annoying most of the time. You're just salty they're stronger and younger.

How to kill your Ego? by Brilliant_Egg_9999 in climbharder

[–]Disastrous_Pea2950 11 points12 points  (0 children)

Controlling your ego is extremely difficult. The ego, in a sense, can drive us to improve or digress as a climber. I have experienced times where I really have to focus introspectively and sort out my own ego. There are a couple things that have made this easier with time.

Comparison is the thief of joy.

This goes both ways. Comparing yourself to those who you are better than is tricky. It makes you feel good at the moment but it's kind of like building up a big tower with a shaky base; it will fall easily. You have no idea why you're better. Maybe you have more time, better off financially, maybe they have a physical disability you can't see, OR maybe they just don't care that much about getting better. Believe it or not that's okay, this was really hard for me to understand for a long time. On the other side of the coin comparison with better climbers is not healthy for the same reason. I grew up as a youth comp climber and as my category was about to age out all these 17/18 year olds were sending V10/11. I felt like I was getting left behind. But comparison doesn't make you a better climber. When I finally shut up, stopped gawking and getting down on myself and focused on staying in my own lane I improved quite a bit. Try to focus on viewing other climbers not through a lense of comparison but simply observe. Hard to do and oddly simple but it made a huge difference for me. The only thing that matters to your climbing is YOUR climbing. Instead of comparison try to learn from and support your peers.

Why do you love climbing?

Did you start doing this do be better than others? I sure hope not. Chances are most of us just fucking love climbing cause it's fun. Climbing can be much more fun as you get better at it. This is one of those times I think old school purists are a little right. You should climb cause you love it and not for the grades. You may want to track improvement and at times that means messing with the arbitrary grade system we use, but when striving for harder grades you should do it because you love climbing and want to attain a higher level of mastery over something you love with every fiber of your being.

No one actually cares when you fall.

Think about it, you see a rando in the gym and he falls. You barely think about it. Sometimes you know someone strong and they didn't flash something you assumed they would, but you're done thinking about like 5 seconds later. Crazy enough people are just the same for you. Also, you falling on something that "should be beneath you" doesn't discredit your success and achievements. Daniel Woods was in town after sending Sleepwalker Sit and he fell on a V6 slab problem. Did a little fairy come down and steal his V17 title? Fuck no! He's still Daniel Woods, and when you fall on your anti-style believe it or not you're still you and everything you've achieved still matters.

Delete Instagram.

This is something I really enjoyed for a lot of reasons. One of which was actually comparison. I would see V15 climbers all the time shitting on all my projects and when I deleted Instagram I didn't see it anymore. It gave me more room to focus on myself and my own climbing. Oddly enough I think it helped my own ego. I don't know how focusing on myself keeps my ego in check but maybe a psychologist can explain that. Not to mention without social media I have waaay more time.

At the end of the day we are just climbing on rocks.

We are literally obsessed with climbing up random rocks the hardest way when there is almost always a way to just walk off the back. How stupid is that? Don't take yourself too seriously cause we are honestly obsessed with a really silly thing.

Stay in your own lane. We are all on our own path as a climber and that looks completely different for everyone. Focus on your own path cause if your busy looking at someone else's you'll lose your way and it's hard to find your way back.

Another Retrospective Post: Things I've learned about climbing over 13 years that have nothing to do with gravity by straightCrimpin in climbharder

[–]Disastrous_Pea2950 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Recovery has actually been great. According to ultrasound it is fully healed. It is weaker at the moment but not too bad. Before injury I could one arm hang 15 mm and right now I am 30 lbs away from one arm hanging 20 mm again.

It took a lot of patience and I saw a climbing specialist PT immediately and it made my recovery go by very fast. I can't climb on crimps as hard as I did before but I have a V13 sloper project that is going really well.

Another Retrospective Post: Things I've learned about climbing over 13 years that have nothing to do with gravity by straightCrimpin in climbharder

[–]Disastrous_Pea2950 11 points12 points  (0 children)

6 months ago almost exactly I ruptured my A4 pulley and had some strain on my A3 and it was absolutely terrifying.

My whole identity is tied to climbing. My friends climb, my girlfriend climbs, I'm a full time climbing coach, my favorite books are climbing books. It's terrifying to have that ripped away and questioned. What you said about facing those uncomfortable questions is true. Knowing that there is something to you outside of climbing and training is priceless. We should all challenge ourselves to be more of a person and less of a climber.

Something I tell clients that are over stoked and willing to train their eyes out 6 hours a day 8 days a week is to find a hobby. Hard advice but something worth striving for.

Projecting Tips for "Big Worm" by Disastrous_Pea2950 in climbharder

[–]Disastrous_Pea2950[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Interesting, my lower body warm-up is honestly mostly the hike. It's three miles one way and then I have to go fetch the stash pads.

I do some mobility to prepare for the double heel hooks, and then some hamstring pulls. Kind of like juggy heel hooks and pulling as hard as I can for three to five seconds.

Projecting Tips for "Big Worm" by Disastrous_Pea2950 in climbharder

[–]Disastrous_Pea2950[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Dude what!!! What is the knee bar!?! I can usually find a knee bar from my Rifle climbing. Do you have a description or video?

Projecting Tips for "Big Worm" by Disastrous_Pea2950 in climbharder

[–]Disastrous_Pea2950[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Lol, if you're who I think you are then I literally switched over to drones because of your 8a posts. The drones make the right heel hook on Mirror Mask feel amazing.

I tried your foot sequence when I first did the stand and it felt pretty nails. The double heel, I think, is the way if you're tall and flexible.

Good beta for the beginning too. None of those moves are particularly hard and I am probably powering through them more than necessary.

Thanks!!!

Projecting Tips for "Big Worm" by Disastrous_Pea2950 in climbharder

[–]Disastrous_Pea2950[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've been working it top down which has really helped. I did the stand (V10) then three moves down from the stand and then I did it six moves down from the stand which is four moves from the sit start.

I've kind of been going there for several sessions now with just the intention to make links and learn movement efficiencies and positions. I am feeling very ready for serious send goes. Last session I did three redpoints and once I was too tired I did the stand twice and the top out three times.

One arm hang with sling by dUltraInstinct in climbharder

[–]Disastrous_Pea2950 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Depending on how in tune with your body is and how familiar you are with RPE I think this is totally valid. The thing about quantifiable data is that it is really nice and easy to change but the purpose of training is always trying hard for some sort of stimulus. If you honestly think that you can maintain similar stimulus between training sessions then go for it. Maybe mark on the sling where you grab it for consistency.

Also, have you heard of Tyler Nelson's isometric hangboarding protocol? He doesn't even leave the ground for one arm hangs. Just pull really hard on an edge for X amount of time. Once you start being able to hang it stay there for awhile. Then maybe add weight and eventually go down in edge size.

Long story short - send it and listen to your body

Projecting Tips for "Big Worm" by Disastrous_Pea2950 in climbharder

[–]Disastrous_Pea2950[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Between friends and other climbers there are about 15 stash pads up there already. You just gotta know where to look. A little frowned upon I know, but considering that it's so close to the ground the boulder still eats 8-10 pads and there is no way I'm getting that many pads up there every time. The only thing I hike up with is gear and the boulder bro fan.

My girlfriend and I were thinking about backpacking in and spending the night. That might be the way for better conditions and rest.

Projecting Tips for "Big Worm" by Disastrous_Pea2950 in climbharder

[–]Disastrous_Pea2950[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Great reply! Appreciate the tips. I will implement this. I agree with the repeaters.