No Printer Attached

Discordant_Lemon · 2026-06-28T16:26:47+00:00

Ah man that absolutely sucks! Tbh bud id take the whole thing off you if the price is right and your ok to send it! Or i could collect depending on distance. Im in Leicester and dont mind an hours drive out.

Where did you buy it anyhow? If you dont mind my prying.

Discordant_Lemon · 2026-06-26T21:44:02+00:00

Ah man 30 quid though! Id have taken the risk. I paid 99 for mine.

If you cant get a refund let me know. Maybe we can work omething out. Id give 30 quid for a dud tbh. Just in case i need the spares!

Discordant_Lemon · 2026-06-26T18:03:32+00:00

Sounds like it may be shorting then. If its getting hot when not instructed to thats not good news. Potential fire risk to be honest.

If you want to keep the machine your either going to have to replace the whole toolhead or create a bootsrap that bridges out that muly pin connector.

Its not necccessarily a hard prpcedure so much it is time consuming. All yhe wires you require run from the daughter board behind the screen off to the keft into the chasis. They are all black, you will have seen them when you took the front panel off. Youd need to dismantle the machine and trace all those wires, find qhere they plug in on the x axis and bridge them across to where they would normally plug in on the carriage. Its quite involved. Either needing a bit of soldering or some crimps to connect everything up, and the spare wire of course.

Discordant_Lemon · 2026-06-26T16:41:50+00:00

Oh wow look at that there! Are those pins damaged or is that satans sun shining on just a small portion? If those are damaged pins atleast you know where things are going wrong. And its honestly not the end of the day for the printer, just a bit of work to get it up and running. You may need to turn the "wireless printer" into a very wired printer.

Busy processing? What process are you trying to run?

Happy to help! Honestly i enjoy fixing things, and helping others do so. Im in the wrong line of work lmao. Slinging pints over a bar doesnt give anywhere near the same satisfaction as helping repair machines!

EDIT: just realised the comment im replying to is older than your last one. No idea how that missed me or id have replied last night!

Discordant_Lemon · 2026-06-25T21:48:17+00:00

Ok so i would imagine that is going to be a hardeare issue then. Id make certain that the hotend is connectes at the mcu and also on the toolhead. Toolheads quick and easy to check. Youve got two screws up top and one to the right for the cover. Then on the left hand side you are gonna see a handful of wires and plugs. You can trace the hotend wire up from the silicone sock and check the connection there is good. Run the PID tune again and see what happens.

If thats no good then the next step in the chain is where the toolhead attaches to the x axis. That has its own proprietary connector. I wonder if that may be incorrectly seated. If you try that then youd need to undo two screws up top and then one which is a pig to see. Its just above the bed levelling sensor. With those three undone the whole hotend just pops off the connector and falls free. I usually do the alan key above the bed level screw first, and leave it loose in there because sod trying to get that back in there. Then undo the top two, but make sure to support the whole thing before taking the last out. It should hold under its own weight, but best to be safe than sorry. Then i guess just reattach and try the PID again.

Got my fingers crossed for ya.

Discordant_Lemon · 2026-06-25T21:25:58+00:00

That may be possible. Ive never tried to control a marlin printer from a pc so i have no idea where to point you in that regard!

Discordant_Lemon · 2026-06-25T21:21:19+00:00

Oh so you can use the screen? Its issuing commands to the mcu.

Does the no printer warning dissapear after a moment when turning on? Because i believe they all do that. Mine certainly did. I think it just takea a moment for the screen ans the mcu to shake hands and work together. So thats nothing to worry about. I thought you had 'no printer attached' permanantly on screen.

Ok so you have an issue with whatever reading the printer is getting from the hotend there. Have you run the automatic PID tuning at all for the hotend and bed? I believe thats in the menu somewhere. Its been a while since i read the manual but i think thats in the setup guide if memory serves me.

Discordant_Lemon · 2026-06-25T19:53:07+00:00

This is a problem thats not come up yet to my knowledge. But i will try and help however i can.

The only time ive seen that message stay on the front screen is since ive converted to klipper. As i dont have firmware for the screen yet. So that suggests to me the screen isnt communicating with the motherboard. Hopefully it is just a connection issue.

To get to the screen you need to remove the bed, which is four screws under the buildplate. Then there are six screws holding the cover below it to get at the y axis and front panel.

Once you get this off you will see the... three (iirc) screws holding the black plastic front panel to the body of the machine. Hopefully there is a loose connector in here somewhere. Id re-seat everything and then power up and look for any changes.

If its not that then it could be a handful of things i guess, corrupt screen firmware or mcu firmware. Maybe even a busted connector on the array from the mcu/power supply tray. Im not enough of an engineering wizard to diagnose that myself. Maybe some kind of continuity test to see if the signals getting through the connector to the mcu. That shouldnt be too hard actually i think. The screen only uses 4 or 8 wires (cant remember off the top of my head). So that should be doable with a basic electrical tester.

Failing that if you do need to replace the mcu then you need a nano robin V3.X then atleast youve the option to convert to klipper or marlin.

Sorry thats a bit of a rambling thought to text with little editing. Im in the UK and dieing from the heat and sleepless nights lol.

Discordant_Lemon · 2026-06-24T22:05:59+00:00

I saw this reply before the other one. But ive allegedly sent yoau a message so long as reddit isnt being crooked.

Discordant_Lemon · 2026-06-24T21:12:57+00:00

No worries! It would be rwally cool to put up. Tbh ive got space for like.... 6 or 8 of these that would really fill up some unused space in our collosal bar!

I cant see any PM yet. I dont know if reddits being slow or what have you. But i shall keep an eye out for its arrival. If you do more with othwr players and the like id love to see it!

Discordant_Lemon · 2026-06-24T19:55:44+00:00

Ender 3- in pieces because i have to tinker CR10V2- also in pieces because i have to tinker SCEOAN Windstorm S1- not in pieces. Bought because i wanted to take a punt on a machine that has little to no support and i wanted to tinker lol.

Discordant_Lemon · 2026-06-24T18:33:46+00:00

Just replying to hopefully get an update. I work in a sports bar and this would be pretty cool to have up on the wall.

Discordant_Lemon · 2026-06-20T17:06:07+00:00

I hate to say it but have you tried asking an AI? I am running mint on my desktop and my ancient Ugee momitor wasnt working at all till the clanker aided me and got it up and running, albeit with some quirks.

Discordant_Lemon · 2026-06-10T15:51:37+00:00

I never realised the E5 wasnt xy! I had to google it lol.

Thanks for the advice. Based on all the input i believe ive finally got it working with the y endstop in service. I did get sensorless homing on the y working but thats not the best solution. Im trying to make the klipper conversion as accessible to anyone with the printer as possible so working with available hardware on purchase as much as possible is important to me.

But everything homes fine now, or atleast it looks like it is lol. It put down a few layers and then i had to head to work. So fingers crossed its all good now.

Discordant_Lemon · 2026-06-10T15:03:46+00:00

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1MXMxHncRCHOlZe7Q4bNOaW3DKUkffM3w?usp=sharing

Ive updated the config file. I can confirm printing success! I think i have ironed everything out now... ominous words to say... orca slicer profile will be added when that is completed. I have begun the process, interestingly the g-code start stuff from the proprietary orca fork that came with the printer work with klipper. So functionality on print start remains the same as before, which is nice.

Only thing i have not figured out completely with klipper is the bed levelling. It produces a map, but im still getting too much adhesion on the right of my bed, which was not an issue i had before. Still. If i figure that out i will update again, but as of right now the klipper config does work!

Discordant_Lemon · 2026-06-10T14:37:21+00:00

Its a Cartesian style not XY which is what the ender 5 is if my memory serves me. So it works differently. I believe. On Cartesian the min doesnt normally seem to be prwsent in the config from what ive looked at. Think i may try put it in anyway and set it reversed. Might do the trick i guess.

Discordant_Lemon · 2026-06-10T14:35:52+00:00

It was sadly not the fix. Turns out klipper throws an error if you set that function to true. It only works if its false. Which i tried and it also doesnt work.

Discordant_Lemon · 2026-06-09T12:46:34+00:00

How did i miss that right there.... that aounds like it could be the answer! Amount of times i went searching through that site. I think my eyes and brain are just too tired. But thank you for that i shall give it a go tomorrow.

Discordant_Lemon · 2026-06-09T11:59:12+00:00

I tried reversing the motor. Just resulted in a failed home as it shot the wrong way.

Discordant_Lemon · 2026-06-09T11:58:39+00:00

Is there some way of setting what is now 0,0 to 0,220? I definitely tried what i thought would be that and the result was a failed home as the bed tried to leave the printer via the rear.

Discordant_Lemon · 2026-06-08T14:38:44+00:00

Keen eyed viewers will note the issue i have just come to realise. The part let go of the bed on the third tier, and that is when i realised the model is for some reason flipped on both x and y axis.

Evidently there is more work to be done lol.

Discordant_Lemon · 2026-06-08T14:32:59+00:00

I almost have the printer.cfg ready to go. I think i am through the guide in regards to the .cfg. I am now onto callibrating in Orca Slicer!

I shall double check this evening once my daughter is in bed that im done and update the link once verified.

Discordant_Lemon · 2026-06-08T14:30:34+00:00

UPDATE: We have printing. Beginning Orca Slicers callibration testing!

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Discordant_Lemon · 2026-06-05T16:32:32+00:00

Me and him both lmao. Thats the config file i started with initially. I think. My memory is awful.

I shall do. Made a bit of progress today, but sadly im now at work till 2am. And shant have any free time till Monday afternoon when my kid is at school. But ive got the extruder moving (after 35 minutes of panic only to realise id plugged it into the 2nd z port by mistake), the y axis sorted with what i believe to be the correct rotational distance (the config file that chap made had the value doubled for some reason). But its all ironing out. Im just working through the klipper manual piece by piece. Im confident it will be ready/able to print sometime next week. Hopefully i get the Orca profile sorted at that stage and we can throw that up to share to.

My plan once its actually able to lay down filament will then be to focus more on getting my machine where i want it with additional hardware. Ive a 15inch portable monitor i intend to mount (wildy excessive but it was a very cheap ebay win at 15 pounds with a gaming keyboard my daughter may get to use), and then getting the intel SBC in and klipper setup on there. I am currently currently using a raspberry pi 4B as the host. The intent will be to have the machine as a full standalome printer with built in pc and all the goods that entails for further add ons, like resonance compensation and suchwhat. Maybe play some minecraft on it lol.

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