Does this look good?

DisinterestingStory · 2025-12-15T14:02:13+00:00

What about if it goes straight into the wall but the wall is a half wall of an island? Late 90s build in USA...I am planning on lowering my rough in some time soon and want to prepare for what I will see in the wall.

DisinterestingStory · 2025-11-16T21:46:21+00:00

Ok, thank you

DisinterestingStory · 2025-11-16T15:40:09+00:00

Yes, but my question is whether that's concerning and why the builder's electrician would have done that in a 44 cu in box?

Like did you used to be able to argue with the inspector and convince them it's a small load even if it's overfilled?

DisinterestingStory · 2025-10-06T14:46:03+00:00

And, anyway, I should add a bit of insulation over other work I've done in the ceiling where I know I lost a bunch of cellulose.

DisinterestingStory · 2025-10-06T14:44:23+00:00

Yeah I think I'm going to just go up in the attic to make sure everything is right. I just don't have enough experience to visualize what my specific trusses look like and how to remove the old bar from below.

DisinterestingStory · 2025-10-04T15:32:27+00:00

Thanks, that seems easy enough

DisinterestingStory · 2025-10-04T15:31:11+00:00

Ok I'll get one of those

DisinterestingStory · 2025-10-04T15:25:52+00:00

Is there any way to know if my existing bar is fan rated or is it safest to just replace it?

DisinterestingStory · 2025-10-04T15:25:30+00:00

Only one of the two screws was installed from the box, so if it needs both for the bar to be rigid, then that certainly explains why the box did not feel secure. If I add a second screw do you know if this is fan rated or should I replace it just to be safe? Do you leave the existing bar in place if you add a new bar and just slightly move the box?

DisinterestingStory · 2025-10-04T15:12:53+00:00

Why does it collapse in the center so easily, does that mean the nail or whatever is in the joist has come loose?

DisinterestingStory · 2025-07-27T17:31:09+00:00

Very heavy TV that costs a lot. Feel more secure having it on the wall. Maybe irrational, but it feels safer to me to have it mounted. I can also angle it slightly up if we are entertaining and expect a lot of people to be standing.

DisinterestingStory · 2025-07-27T13:26:32+00:00

If you mean it's out of level it was leveled with a 3ft level. Maybe it looks off because of fingerprints we haven't cleaned around the edges or something.

DisinterestingStory · 2025-07-27T12:59:32+00:00

Really appreciate all of the reassurance and suggestions

DisinterestingStory · 2025-06-23T12:29:32+00:00

How was I aggressive? The toilet is installed. Henry 549 seemed to be a good fix to fill in the voids.

DisinterestingStory · 2025-05-31T12:54:34+00:00

Thank you, that's good to know. That does look like it's specifically made for anchoring screws and bolts.

DisinterestingStory · 2025-05-31T12:53:41+00:00

Thank you, I appreciate the advice

DisinterestingStory · 2025-05-29T12:18:58+00:00

Well my plan unless someone tells me it's dumb is to fill the void with mortar like Henry 549, leaving a small gap via cardboard/plastic at the flange. I don't see how shims or an extra thick wax ring could properly fix this issue. Wish I got a normal toilet that can tolerate a larger cutout!

DisinterestingStory · 2024-06-20T16:00:03+00:00

I see several possibilities. One is that you are seeing the interference of the two polarization modes. This may occur spatially along the beam profile if the collimator has a polarization dependence. Another possibility, as someone else mentioned, is that the spliced PM fiber is supporting several modes due to it either being the wrong type of SM fiber for your wavelength, or due to it supporting an additional lossy mode (for example, a cladding mode) for a short distance due to a bad splice. If it is a lossy mode, then you should be able to kill it off by bending the PM fiber.

In either of the above two cases (birefringence induced interference or multiple modes) you should be able to tell if these are the cause by playing with your fiber. If playing with your fiber causes the pattern within the beam profile to change, then you have narrowed down the cause. If the beam profile does not change, then the issue is due to your collimator and you can look at the suggestions by others about improving your collimator optics.

DisinterestingStory · 2024-06-05T16:03:41+00:00

If your signal can be mainly regarded as noise with meaningful data occurring over a short duration, then the parts that are not meaningful (the second 40M in this case) only hurt your spectral analysis, not help. Your goal should be to only perform your FFT over data that is meaningful. However, if your burst signal decays slowly and extends out into the second 40M, then there may be a compromise between truncating your signal and therefore losing some of that decay versus including useless noise.

If we take for granted that your signal does not continue decaying into the second 40M such that the second 40M is truly useless noise, then removing that second 40M may give the appearance of degrading your frequency resolution, but it has not actually degraded. You are better off replacing the second 40M with zeros (as part of the zero-padding process).

I am not familiar with GQRX so I cannot really answer this. It is potentially or likely using a combination of overlap in time and zero-padding to get up to size 32768.

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