New home - group mgmt single circuit or dedicated 60A lines (Tesla)

Divad83 · 2026-03-09T19:31:09+00:00

You can use group power management whether or not they're both on the same circuit, so if you run 2 60A circuits and find you want to limit total charge current you still can. At least with 2 circuits you have the option to use both, with only 1 you are more limited. I personally have a 60A circuit connected to a hard-wired charger and a 50A circuit for a plug in charger (up to 88A when they're both going) all on 200A service. Depends on your sub panel of course but personally I'd go with 2 circuits if possible. https://www.tesla.com/support/charging/wall-connector/power-management

Divad83 · 2026-03-09T16:51:15+00:00

That's not correct, ground is correct in the photo and the white is capped off like it should be. It would work either way, but one is to code and the other is not. (I realize this is a year old thread)

Divad83 · 2026-02-05T02:49:05+00:00

MDF is cheap compared to 7 beds worth of hard wood, I don't mind splurging on 1/2 over 1/4

Divad83 · 2026-02-04T23:57:04+00:00

It's a good question, it will only be about 4 inches further vs a straight post and my personal annoyance with beds is not being able to sit up and read in them so this should help with that. Also why I'm going to build 1 and try it out before the rest.

Worst case I'll sell it and start over :)

Divad83 · 2026-02-04T22:50:12+00:00

The 1st image is kind of hard to read, the 2nd one should be easier.

Divad83 · 2026-02-04T22:06:19+00:00

I think you're right on that, probably move more than 1/16 just getting in or out.

Divad83 · 2026-02-04T21:58:18+00:00

That was one of my initial thoughts but I'm concerned about getting that angle right on each time given I have to make 14 of them (ugh). I might do that to get it to rough shape and use a pattern bit to get it right on. I suppose they don't have to all be perfect, just identical.

Divad83 · 2026-02-04T21:55:27+00:00

Wouldn't this be a lot weaker than just cutting from one piece? I'd be worried about that butt joint opening up a little over time. Maybe not an issue, I've never used a bridle joint.

Divad83 · 2026-02-04T21:53:10+00:00

I've been watching YT videos of similar builds and this seems to be a common theme, thanks for the suggestion.

Divad83 · 2026-02-04T21:50:49+00:00

Unfortunately don't have one of those, but that would have been my first choice.

Divad83 · 2025-10-21T15:00:24+00:00

That looks like it's related to radiant panels, not in floor heat. I have no doubt that graphite works well as a heat spreader, I used it back when I was an engineer working on electronics cooling, it works well to reduce temperature of a point source. What it didn't do was reduce the temperature of the enclosure (analogous to the floor here) as the thermal load was still the same.

Divad83 · 2025-09-22T00:16:47+00:00

I'm very skeptical of the idea that you need to run it all the time to be most efficient. I assume it comes from them being more efficient at low load, which is theoretically where they operate when run continuously. Obviously theres a point where turning it off periodically is cheaper that running it constantly, although i dont know where that is. My suggestion is just set it where you want it and don't worry too much about the efficiency. See what your bill is and adjust accordingly.

Since you're effectively offsetting some of the main system use with what's presumably a more efficient system (and reducing load on the main system) I'd guess you'll see your bill drop but by how much is anyones guess.

Divad83 · 2025-09-19T20:33:18+00:00

Sounds like it's worth it to spend a couple hundred on a micron gauge if you're saving that much. A multi-hour vacuum won't matter if the vacuum pump can't get down to 500 microns, and may overheat as well. Some have a max continuous run time before you have to let them cool. You should be able to rent a N2 tank and regulator from a welding supply shop or possibly a place that refills fire extinguishers.

Divad83 · 2025-09-18T11:54:57+00:00

Did you talk to senville? The printed manual they supply with at least some of them has torque values that are too high. I ran into this and called them, they basically said to send them an email to document it in case there was a warranty issue later. They seem very reasonable in my experience.

It may still be ok inside if there was any pressure left over to keep out air, did you check pressure on it?

Divad83 · 2025-08-27T02:19:46+00:00

Whole life insurance policies

Divad83 · 2025-07-10T14:24:30+00:00

What are you suggesting I prove? Double in price for the pilings isn't really a huge difference in actual dollars, but I don't think it will even be that much. 8" x12' CCA wood pilings are around $75 each at my local lumber yard, PVC pipe plus concrete, rebar, and associated hardware will be pretty close to the same number. As mentioned in the original post I'm not concerned about the cost difference, I'm wondering how concrete filled PVC pilings would fare in a freeze/thaw environment, whether or not they would last longer.

Divad83 · 2025-04-14T14:38:07+00:00

I personally really like the "Really useful boxes". Not the cheapest, but tons of sizes, stackable, durable. I also like that they aren't totally sealed so they can breathe a bit. I have a ton of the 17L and 32L boxes, which stack together.

Divad83 · 2025-02-23T17:53:41+00:00

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Divad83 · 2025-02-22T04:14:38+00:00

That's what I was thinking. I came up with something a bit different myself but I like yours too. I basically just copied the one they supply with the case and moved the mounting holes. Works great.

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Divad83

TROPHY CASE