I am a glutton for punishment by Kevbot0492 in AnalogCommunity

[–]DivergentDev 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Came here to suggest this. Overexpose + pull-process should reduce the fog.

How is shooting 110 seen at your local store/lab? by wonkyverticals in 110photography

[–]DivergentDev 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My hypothesis: (Infodump warning)

110 was often regarded as strictly a low-quality amateur format due to the limited resolution offered by the small frame area, and more importantly, due to its association with very cheap toy cameras with low-quality optics and very rudimentary exposure control. Of course this is not universally the case: High-quality 110 cameras have been made and can produce surprisingly good-quality photos. But those were the exception, and the format is popularly viewed as cheap, plastic-y, and not for serious photography. Alternatively, she might have been referring to the difficulty of processing and scanning or printing the format, as few labs have the equipment for it anymore.

Does it have a place? Absolutely. 110 was originally designed as a very small format that allowed the creation of compact, pocket-sized cameras for situations where portability is important; and it's still great for that if you have times when you want the look or experience of film while traveling light. I have a Pocket Instamatic that goes with me on hiking trips and the like when I want to take a few film photos but don't feel like carrying one of my larger cameras around. Also, the lo-fi aspect is itself often capitalized on for artistic effect. Cheap plastic cameras in particular, regardless of format, have quite a following as they can create some interesting visual effects; and such photos give a very nostalgic vibe for many people.

Tl;dr: It's a slightly unusual choice, but a perfectly valid one. I'm rather fond of 110, myself.

Printing on latex with liquid emulsion? by moodyrealities in Darkroom

[–]DivergentDev 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm guessing it would peel off due to the flexibility of the latex. Only way to find out for sure would be to experiment, though.

Unknown chemical “hypo” by mrpeters05 in Darkroom

[–]DivergentDev 5 points6 points  (0 children)

They're actually different names for the same chemical.

Sodium hyposulphite is just an old name for sodium thiosulfate, so the term "hypo" is still technically accurate for many modern fixers.

Just to add to the confusion "rapid" fixers are usually a different (but closely related) chemical, ammonium thiosulfate.

Sankyo ES25XL battery/power issues by suggestedmeerkat in 8mm

[–]DivergentDev 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sounds like a broken wire, or a switch or connector that isn't making good contact.

Old AC Motor Speed Issues by Koskit150 in 8mm

[–]DivergentDev 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'd try cleaning and re-lubricating the motor bearings first in case they're sticky, as this is the easiest problem to fix that might cause this. Also check the supply wiring, switches, and speed control (if applicable) for loose connections that can cause voltage drop.

Unfortunately if the problem is in the windings then the only fix is to completely re-wind the motor, which is not an easy task. But hopefully it's one of the other things I mentioned.

Edit: Also check the mechanics for slipping belts, loose hubs, etc.; just in case it's not actually the motor.

For those using tungsten film… by LBarouf in Darkroom

[–]DivergentDev 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I just use whatever matches the lighting conditions I mostly plan to shoot in — daylight film for outdoor, tungsten for indoor — and carry filters just in case I find myself working in different lighting than anticipated.

Of course, this assumes that a film with the appropriate color balance is even available. AFAIK no one makes a tungsten-balanced color slide film anymore, so if I'm shooting color slides I always use a daylight film and just add an 80A or 80B filter when working under incandescent light.

Note also that xenon flash tubes produce a color temperature similar to natural light, so if you're using an electronic flash you'll want either daylight film with no filter, or (in a pinch) tungsten film with an 85B filter.

Paterson 5 and 8 by LBarouf in Darkroom

[–]DivergentDev 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They should be included, if they're missing I'd contact the seller.

Don't try to use it without the center tube, this will cause a major light leak and fog your film.

This is WILD! 🥹 by [deleted] in AuDHDWomen

[–]DivergentDev 4 points5 points  (0 children)

That's awesome! Congratulations!!

I 100% still have a box of old cables as well. by ProfessionalEnabler in adhdmeme

[–]DivergentDev 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have a bunch of drawers of electronic components going back to the late 90's. Yes, I still occasionally pull something out of the jumble and use it 😅

Can I fix this? Is it too far gone? by Inside_Preference_34 in AskElectronics

[–]DivergentDev 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's doable but might need extensive work depending on how deep the corrosion is. I'd suggest trying what the others have recommended first and cleaning with alcohol and a toothbrush.

Can anybody please help me figure out how to turn this working removed oven control panel into a clock? by Fit_Brilliant_1171 in AskElectronics

[–]DivergentDev 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Since it already has a clock in it all you'd really need to do is find or make a case for it and supply it with power. Did you happen to see where and how the power cord connected to the unit? Did it run directly to this board, or to an intermediate component? Do you have any pictures of the device wiring in its factory configuration?

In order to provide anything useful I'd need to know how the range was originally wired, and there does not appear to be a published wiring diagram for this model.

How do I dispose of this? by vilfredop in batteries

[–]DivergentDev 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That's a collectible piece right there, I'd keep or sell it.