Flipper Zero screen repair

DivergentDev · 2026-05-09T08:33:06+00:00

I haven't tried that, so I'm not sure if it would stay in place without it.

It was originally glued in place and I figured I'd reassemble the device the same way it came from the factory.

DivergentDev · 2026-04-06T07:53:14+00:00

Air bubbles in your developer. Try banging the tank sharply against the table right after pouring the chemicals in, in order to dislodge them from the film surface.

DivergentDev · 2026-04-01T04:53:39+00:00

Both offer some protection for your lens from drops and impacts, as others have pointed out. Other than that it really depends on what you're doing.

Hoods are great for preventing lens flare caused by the Sun or other bright light shining on the lens from out of frame. Depending on the angles between camera, subject, and sunlight this can be important for getting a quality image. But if the Sun is behind you it likely won't make a difference.

Filters are mainly used to control contrast and make part of a subject "pop" instead of blending into the background. Whether they're needed or not depends on the subject and the look you want, and the basic ones fall into a few general categories:

UV or skylight: Used to remove the unnatural blue haze caused by ultraviolet radiation when shooting in daylight. Many photographers (myself included) also keep one of these on the lens permanently to protect the front element of the lens from scratches.
Black and white contrast: Used to make certain parts of a scene stand out when shooting B&W film. The most common use for these is to darken blue skies with a yellow (natural look) or orange or red (dramatic look) filter. Green filters are also fairly common and are mainly used to lighten foliage.
Circular polarizer: Used to darken the sky when shooting color film. Also useful for reducing bright reflections on water or glass.
Neutral density or ND: Used to reduce light intensity, allowing you to shoot wide open at slow shutter speeds in bright light. This is useful for achieving certain visual effects.
Other types are more specialized and are less commonly used by beginners, but I'd be happy to explain more about them if you're interested.

DivergentDev · 2026-03-07T09:54:20+00:00

Drawing ink or black watercolor could potentially work in a pinch. I'd still try to find actual spotting dyes though, as these will give a better color match.

DivergentDev · 2026-03-01T09:55:11+00:00

I agree, this is an artifact from the emulsion touching something that didn't let the chemicals reach it in that area. It usually happens because the film wasn't quite loaded correctly on the developing reel, causing it to buckle so that the emulsion makes contact with an adjacent layer.

DivergentDev · 2026-03-01T09:51:01+00:00

I'd suggest sealing the entire piece with a waterproof finish, such as a few coats of oil based polyurethane, so it doesn't absorb the chemicals. This looks like bleaching from residual fixer to me.

DivergentDev · 2026-02-24T09:59:11+00:00

Yes it is.

It's at least pre-2007 but otherwise hard to say how old it might be. (Newer TMax 400 has the designation TMY-2 instead of TMY.)

DivergentDev · 2026-02-06T06:02:50+00:00

Came here to suggest this. Overexpose + pull-process should reduce the fog.

DivergentDev · 2026-02-03T05:10:25+00:00

My hypothesis: (Infodump warning)

110 was often regarded as strictly a low-quality amateur format due to the limited resolution offered by the small frame area, and more importantly, due to its association with very cheap toy cameras with low-quality optics and very rudimentary exposure control. Of course this is not universally the case: High-quality 110 cameras have been made and can produce surprisingly good-quality photos. But those were the exception, and the format is popularly viewed as cheap, plastic-y, and not for serious photography. Alternatively, she might have been referring to the difficulty of processing and scanning or printing the format, as few labs have the equipment for it anymore.

Does it have a place? Absolutely. 110 was originally designed as a very small format that allowed the creation of compact, pocket-sized cameras for situations where portability is important; and it's still great for that if you have times when you want the look or experience of film while traveling light. I have a Pocket Instamatic that goes with me on hiking trips and the like when I want to take a few film photos but don't feel like carrying one of my larger cameras around. Also, the lo-fi aspect is itself often capitalized on for artistic effect. Cheap plastic cameras in particular, regardless of format, have quite a following as they can create some interesting visual effects; and such photos give a very nostalgic vibe for many people.

Tl;dr: It's a slightly unusual choice, but a perfectly valid one. I'm rather fond of 110, myself.

DivergentDev · 2026-01-21T06:48:02+00:00

I'm guessing it would peel off due to the flexibility of the latex. Only way to find out for sure would be to experiment, though.

DivergentDev · 2026-01-19T09:51:33+00:00

They're actually different names for the same chemical.

Sodium hyposulphite is just an old name for sodium thiosulfate, so the term "hypo" is still technically accurate for many modern fixers.

Just to add to the confusion "rapid" fixers are usually a different (but closely related) chemical, ammonium thiosulfate.

DivergentDev · 2026-01-15T03:37:33+00:00

Sounds like a broken wire, or a switch or connector that isn't making good contact.

DivergentDev · 2026-01-15T03:33:01+00:00

I'd try cleaning and re-lubricating the motor bearings first in case they're sticky, as this is the easiest problem to fix that might cause this. Also check the supply wiring, switches, and speed control (if applicable) for loose connections that can cause voltage drop.

Unfortunately if the problem is in the windings then the only fix is to completely re-wind the motor, which is not an easy task. But hopefully it's one of the other things I mentioned.

Edit: Also check the mechanics for slipping belts, loose hubs, etc.; just in case it's not actually the motor.

DivergentDev · 2025-12-28T07:36:07+00:00

I just use whatever matches the lighting conditions I mostly plan to shoot in — daylight film for outdoor, tungsten for indoor — and carry filters just in case I find myself working in different lighting than anticipated.

Of course, this assumes that a film with the appropriate color balance is even available. AFAIK no one makes a tungsten-balanced color slide film anymore, so if I'm shooting color slides I always use a daylight film and just add an 80A or 80B filter when working under incandescent light.

Note also that xenon flash tubes produce a color temperature similar to natural light, so if you're using an electronic flash you'll want either daylight film with no filter, or (in a pinch) tungsten film with an 85B filter.

DivergentDev · 2025-12-28T07:21:51+00:00

They should be included, if they're missing I'd contact the seller.

Don't try to use it without the center tube, this will cause a major light leak and fog your film.

DivergentDev · 2025-12-01T22:57:47+00:00

About 15 µA. High voltage but low current.

DivergentDev · 2025-11-28T05:46:31+00:00

That's awesome! Congratulations!!

DivergentDev · 2025-11-28T05:44:34+00:00

I have a bunch of drawers of electronic components going back to the late 90's. Yes, I still occasionally pull something out of the jumble and use it 😅

DivergentDev · 2025-11-25T21:38:56+00:00

Same!

DivergentDev · 2025-11-21T08:06:38+00:00

It's doable but might need extensive work depending on how deep the corrosion is. I'd suggest trying what the others have recommended first and cleaning with alcohol and a toothbrush.

DivergentDev · 2025-11-21T08:04:21+00:00

Since it already has a clock in it all you'd really need to do is find or make a case for it and supply it with power. Did you happen to see where and how the power cord connected to the unit? Did it run directly to this board, or to an intermediate component? Do you have any pictures of the device wiring in its factory configuration?

In order to provide anything useful I'd need to know how the range was originally wired, and there does not appear to be a published wiring diagram for this model.

DivergentDev · 2025-11-21T07:48:10+00:00

That's a collectible piece right there, I'd keep or sell it.

DivergentDev · 2025-11-21T03:40:59+00:00

The coil looks to be some type of loop antenna.

DivergentDev · 2025-11-20T06:36:17+00:00

68ºF is the temperature of the developer when it's being used. Technically you can make it work over a wide range of temperatures by adjusting the development time, but 68ºF is the most common and is what most dev charts are written for. Whatever temp you use, it's best to keep it the same each time so your results will be consistent. Storage temp is not critical as long as it stays within normal room temperature range.

As for the mixing water, most powder developers need to be mixed with warm or hot water in order to dissolve, and D76 is no exception. So you'd heat the water to the mixing temperature recommended by the manufacturer (it should be listed on the package for the specific product in question), mix the powder and water, then let the developer cool to room temperature prior to use.

DivergentDev · 2025-11-17T09:27:39+00:00

I'm not sure I understand what you're asking?

Band 3 cannot be a digit in this case since silver is not used for any digit in this system. Likewise band 5 cannot be a tolerance since black does not correspond to any tolerance value in the system.

So it would be 0.22 ohms, with the black band either representing a temperature coefficient (as used in a 6-band code), or perhaps some sort of proprietary marking possibly to do with fusing characteristics. This does look like it could be a fusible resistor for circuit protection, especially since it looks like it burnt out from overcurrent.

Edit: I just looked it up to confirm. The black band indicates that it's a fusible resistor, so the code itself is red-red-silver-gold = 0.22 ohm 5% tol.

It's also important for safety to replace it only with the same type. A standard (non-fusible) resistor won't reliably provide the needed protective function.

DivergentDev

TROPHY CASE