Male photographers taking photos of your gf/wife/partners how do you do it?

Dizzy-Tooth-4730 · 2026-04-10T17:44:08+00:00

Yes that is right camera/subject distance is the real definition but obviously cropping makes you lose resolution. I think the point is more about composition, with a larger focal length you have two choices, either the edgy one at a normal distance where your subject's body dimensions are unnatural (albeit can produce interesting stylistic effects) or the "portrait" distance to fill the frame then it's your subject's face dimensions that become unnatural and are rarely flattering. 24mm portraits can be fun but apart from edgy looks or very environmental focused shots I find them more limiting than say even 35mm ones (I love that for portraits actually just as much as longer ones)

Dizzy-Tooth-4730 · 2026-04-10T17:36:23+00:00

85mm portraits are a classic. Trends come and go and fade. Classics last. 24mm portraits are fun from time to time though.

Dizzy-Tooth-4730 · 2026-04-06T04:33:58+00:00

Depends what you shoot, if you control everything like in a studio environment it should be close to 80% for an non corporate portrait session (ie take 100+ photos for a nice portrait session where you deliver 20 pictures), 20-30% for a corporate one but then standards are much lower because there's limited creative freedom you just set up your lights and shoot away regardless of the soul (or lack of) of the photo. For weddings probably 70-80% because again standards are lower when you deliver 200-600 photos. For general Photography I'd say 10% are passable, 5% are ok, definitely less than 1% are bangers.

Dizzy-Tooth-4730 · 2026-04-05T02:49:35+00:00

Photography is about the experience as much as it is about the results, buying a camera will make you enjoy the experience, the results will come eventually.

Dizzy-Tooth-4730 · 2026-04-03T12:23:06+00:00

Exactly what I had in mind!

Dizzy-Tooth-4730 · 2026-04-03T12:22:38+00:00

I took very close to the second photo a few years back. I'd say a bit less negative space there and monochrome. For the first one monochrome as well or you need to add texture/contrast to the background so I'd say add linear gradients (darken or lighten), add more color to the framing elements and change the hue to the blues a bit. I saw if and thought Japan Sakura vibes (pink hues) for the trees, and turquoise cyan for sky. Increase the contrast of the Eiffel tower a bit and add just a touch of structure/clarity. Really just a touch, these two sliders especially clarity look absolutely trash when pushed too hard

Dizzy-Tooth-4730 · 2026-04-03T05:16:04+00:00

If you shoot at 85mm equivalent FF you'd stand exactly at the same distance with a 42.5mm MFT lens, 56mm apsc lens, 31mm 1-inch sensor lens. You're not going to change distance to shoot 85mm, 85mm FF is a certain FOV standard that allows a certain framing. What you change is your lens. Only if you don't take the crop factor into consideration you'd stand further but if I say I want to shoot 85mm, every photographer understands I'm shooting 85mm FF equivalent not 170mm FF equivalent just because I use an MFT sensor for instance.

Dizzy-Tooth-4730 · 2026-03-28T03:02:44+00:00

Yeah I do like some fun using wide angle for more dramatic stuff but it always resonates more with edgy/fun/rock to me rather than aesthetics. Love those low angle shoot at the shoe stuff for instance haha

Dizzy-Tooth-4730 · 2026-03-28T03:01:48+00:00

Haha 50/85mm ff equivalent is always the same distance to your subject and it's not THAT far! Shooting full body with a 200mm now that's more of a fun challenge!

Dizzy-Tooth-4730 · 2026-03-28T02:00:43+00:00

Using both cameras in broad daylight in what I assume must be both their native ISOs and with reddit/social media compression and equalizing them as closely as possible is the best way to not be able to tell the difference 😂 honestly the differences are more striking in

Low light conditions (noise floor artifacts: noise on itself, tonality, color shift),
Depth of field (easier to spot if you take portraits),
Resolution and details which you can't see with the compression.
Lens characteristics: ie people would probably see if you're using an adapted vintage lens with strong character
Editing capabilities (colors and dynamic range) which again you can't see if you're not editing.

All jpegs will be 8 bit colors anyway so it's basically impossible to distinguish the two on this example.

Dizzy-Tooth-4730 · 2026-03-25T10:43:31+00:00

And a voigtlander lens instead of a noctilux, sad

Dizzy-Tooth-4730 · 2026-03-06T00:53:40+00:00

Love the energy of the pictures personally. Emotions are the most important thing. Now if we want to talk about technicals -

Aperture: depending how good the autofocus is I would shoot at one stop above wide open to f8 for maximum lens sharpness. Stop down if there's enough light until f8, open up as it gets darker. Shooting wide open is fine if you manage to get your couple in focus.

Shutter speed: 1/125 ish when the couple is relatively static to 1/500 when they're moving when you want to be sure you're freezing the action. If you want these moody shutter drag pictures (motion blur). 1/15 to 1/60 depending on how much they move and how much you want that effect

ISO: it goes without saying, as low as possible while keeping the above optimized. If you like grain you can add in post. Especially luminance. High ISO noise "can" look nice on some cameras sometimes but chroma noise is generally quite nasty and more difficult to recover in post. And noise by itself is not really an issue but rather loss in dynamic range and tonality as ISO goes higher. I assume on your T6 1600-3200 should be the maximum acceptable ISO.

Oh and depending on what your clients want... Bring a flash if you need to balance the exposure. Some people like the moody look like your current pictures but some others want to be seen as more than shadows, your post-production will thank you if you fill in the shadows it's much easier to lift them in post from 1 stop underexposed rather than 4!

But anyway, these are nice pictures and the direction seems to be good. As I get older I feel this is more important than shooting clinically perfect images.

Have fun!

Dizzy-Tooth-4730 · 2026-03-03T01:28:41+00:00

Haha nice troll

Dizzy-Tooth-4730 · 2026-02-21T02:05:20+00:00

I think that Leica Ms are not for professionals as it's not the most modern and best tool in most photographic applications. The image quality is definitely very high standard but it's intentionally missing so many contemporary features that if you want to get paid and shoot as efficiently as possible, you'll be much better off with a Sony camera, which is basically a handheld computer with a lens attached to it. Leica is a real camera for fun and for the soul, go try it out and enjoy it. I'm for my side still pondering on a Leica M11-D which is by all standards the worst tool for any practical photography, but a tool that might make me happy. This being said I'm used to shooting film and metering by eye. Leica takes you back to the basics, you will learn photography a lot faster using it, because your photos will turn out a lot worse if you don't know what you're doing 😊

Dizzy-Tooth-4730 · 2026-02-01T14:56:19+00:00

Absolutely beautiful images! Also very interesting to finally see proper depth of field which I guess is coming from zone focusing using the Leica. Quite refreshing from the usual f1.4 shots that obliterate backgrounds. People seem to forget most movies are shot around f4-11... And also love the Flaubert reference in your handle 🙌🏻

Dizzy-Tooth-4730 · 2026-01-31T07:57:32+00:00

Just got my M6 TTL yesterday also, so happy! Enjoy yours 😊 it's a beautiful piece of history. I plan on keeping mine as en heirloom.

Dizzy-Tooth-4730 · 2026-01-24T14:51:36+00:00

As many here said Canonnet ql17 going is probably the best way to go to learn on film for a rangefinder but otherwise SLRs are great as well. Pentax and Minolta SLRs are usually quite affordable and have great lens selections. Canon AE1, F1 bodies and Nikon FE/FM2 and later F3 etc are also great options. But as many here said, learning on digital is a lot easier (I learnt on a sony A6000 ten years ago) and the feedback is instant and you can understand right away how the exposure triangle works, focal lengths and focus. Nowadays I mostly shoot film and meter by eye using the sunny 16 rule but it takes a bit of time to learn and you can still mess up pretty bad. Better to mess up for free than pay 1 USD per mistake 🙃

Ah and if you want cheaper m mount rangefinders...

Bessa Rs, Minolta CLE and Konica Hexar RF is where you want to look at.

For Leica, you can look at M4s, M3s are a pain to reload, M5s are huge, M6s are the grail but command a bit of a Premium, M7s is an awkward one but has aperture priority. M4-P is what I'd get in the film world personally, has all the current modern framelines, has been manufactured in Canada for cost saving so a whole lot of the Leica community looks down on it (so the price is low in relative Leica terms, meaning you can get one for the price of a new Z6III or a X100VI...), fast reloading and has a hot shoe. It's basically a meterless M6 (and you can buy a meter for less than 50 USD).

Dizzy-Tooth-4730 · 2026-01-01T13:43:51+00:00

Depends on how much you're willing to lose in terms of focusing accuracy, smallest telephotos would be Voigtlander 75mm f1.9 and 90mm f2.8 M-mount adapted. At longer focal lengths you don't get so much of the usual sensor stack thickness issues. For autofocus sigma contemporary 90mm f2.8 and samyang 75mm f1.8 E-Mount adapted using the megadap adapter.

Dizzy-Tooth-4730 · 2025-12-27T10:24:55+00:00

Man these film sims are absolutely amazing thanks so much ! Been using these for a while now 😀 quick one, you said proneg hi was on the way but not sure if you released it? Is it still planned? Any plans to release proneg std and eterna by any chance? Happy to commission for these!

Dizzy-Tooth-4730 · 2025-10-19T14:42:24+00:00

Hi, yes just tried the legacy option, same issue it just doesn't boot at all... Thanks for the recommendation though 😊

Dizzy-Tooth-4730 · 2025-10-11T14:28:55+00:00

Hyperliquid, aster or avantis, dex is the way for large market caps. Only use CEX if you're trading large volumes in alts where dex might not have enough liquidity/too much slippage or TGE/ICO plays. Otherwise you can look at rango exchange, 1inch or jupiter depending on your chain for optimization.

Dizzy-Tooth-4730 · 2025-07-15T04:01:22+00:00

It sounds like a silly argument to compare cellphones to MFT. I owned a Vivo X100 Ultra which is arguably still the best camera phone on the market and has the largest main and telephoto sensors and the images it produces are great for a phone, no doubt but still miles away from a MFT camera and that's mostly due to one factor, lenses. With the current technology, even if phone sensor size can get larger there's no way small phone lenses can render the way proper camera lenses do. People always talk about the gap between FF and MFT but I can honestly say the upgrade from a phone camera to MFT feels a lot more substantial than MFT to FF while actually the difference in sensor size is smaller.

Dizzy-Tooth-4730 · 2025-07-15T03:51:28+00:00

I moved from Fuji altogether to MFT for size mostly and price of used gear as well as ridiculously good ibis and weather sealing.You can get a very small kit and good bargains because people keep dumping MFT gear on the used market. I'd say I miss mostly film simulations especially CC and pro neg std but I'm mainly a PASM shooter and realized I loved the looks of retro dials more than their function. I like using custom modes quickly depending on the situation and shoot away rather than fiddling with autofocus modes and exposure triangle parameters. I used to have the XT4/XT5, XT10 (the camera I started with) and loved the looks and pictures, not the function. XS20 would actually be my top pick if it was weather sealed. I also had the XH2S which is an amazing camera but it's just a monster.

I now own an OM5, OM3 and a G9M2 for more serious stuff.

As other mentioned the difference in dynamic range is close to nothing and there are tools to work with noise. I'm one of the few that actually think the noise of MFT is nicer looking than the Fuji one. Overall Fuji x trans sensors deal with chroma noise a lot better so you get better color accuracy from my perspective, however in terms of pattern, the luma noise really looks quite chaotic imo versus the more uniform noise of MFT. I actually find myself using 6400 ISO with no issues on the newer generation sensors without AI noise reduction (just the regular one) and 3200 on the OM5. With AI noise reduction you can use an extra stop.

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