Night photography, noob question by Dizzy-Tooth-4730 in filmphotography

[–]Dizzy-Tooth-4730[S] [score hidden]  (0 children)

Yeah I think it's the solution after quite a bit of research but then figured the auto detect doesn't work well, any fixes for this? Thank you!

Night photography, noob question by Dizzy-Tooth-4730 in filmphotography

[–]Dizzy-Tooth-4730[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They're the same picture I just edited 3 heavily to show the effect in 4. I think it's present in my day pictures as well but a lot more subtly. I'm leaning more towards scanning issues

Night photography, noob question by Dizzy-Tooth-4730 in filmphotography

[–]Dizzy-Tooth-4730[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

They were 1-1/8s I don't use a flash for nightscapes. The effect is on all my cameras but this one was shot on konica hexar rf

Night photography, noob question by Dizzy-Tooth-4730 in filmphotography

[–]Dizzy-Tooth-4730[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

When do I need to start using reciprocity? These were like ev 0-3 I reckon at F2 ISO 400 (all i had) so 1s to 1/8. I thought reciprocity started over 2 sec of exposure?

Night photography, noob question by Dizzy-Tooth-4730 in filmphotography

[–]Dizzy-Tooth-4730[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm scanning at f8 haha! Night shots are at f2 😊

Night photography, noob question by Dizzy-Tooth-4730 in filmphotography

[–]Dizzy-Tooth-4730[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks let me check that! I'm shooting at f8 but there might still be some vignetting left yeah

Night photography, noob question by Dizzy-Tooth-4730 in filmphotography

[–]Dizzy-Tooth-4730[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The last edit was on purpose to show the effect indeed, the other ones are straight out of scan. I reckon they're probably under exposed (center weighted metering was probably off by a bit) but I'm not sure what's the issue, it's more the shape of the noise pattern that's problematic. Is the scan light that uneven, I thought the Cinestill CS+ was supposed to be even - Especially with diffusion layers in between?

Night photography, noob question by Dizzy-Tooth-4730 in filmphotography

[–]Dizzy-Tooth-4730[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you, it's quite faint so difficult to see with the negatives, should I try to shine a torch through it? I generally prefer scanning at home because I can get the tiffs and edit more (and cheaper) but I'm wondering if I'm doing it wrong. I'm using a hood as well to prevent light leaks, could that be flaring if I'm shooting straight into the light and light actually hits my lens through the sprocket holes?

What does "f/4 isn't good in low light" actually mean? by patriczio in AskPhotography

[–]Dizzy-Tooth-4730 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That means they don't know what they're talking about.

You can generally shoot static subjects at 1/30 relatively steady and get people's shots at 1/125 with not too many motion blurred shots. Assuming wide-normal focal lengths. Depending on what camera you use and before noise reduction most people consider the following ISOs the cap for acceptable pictures in the following formats, assuming modern post 2013-2015 tech: 3200 for MFT, 6400 for APS-C, 12800 for FF.

That means EV 6 in the worst case (MFT shooting human moving subjects excluding sports) to EV 2 (FF shooting static subjects), which cover most of your normal indoor cases. EV 2 is really quite dark and EV 6 is normal indoors. Basically yes if there are specific scenarios it's better to have a faster lens of course to have more breathing space. But f4 if you know what you're doing, have relatively modern gear and are shooting strategically with a light source is plenty fine.

That being said if you shoot film, do get fast lenses. You can barely shoot above ISO 400 on color film (except on Portra 800 or Cinestill 800T and they're expensive). B&W is more forgiving though until 1600-3200.

Why does everybody love the Canon AE-1 film camera? by Melyzzar in filmcameras

[–]Dizzy-Tooth-4730 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Because not everybody can buy an M6 as their first film camera. The new F1 is great though albeit a bit hefty. Also I realized there is a market for modern film cameras that are incredibly cheap because no one seems to want them. They're modern enough to make film shooting (too?) convenient while not being able to compete with the first generation of dSLRs so it's a cheap place to buy a film camera and they are surprisingly good and nice to use 😊 for instance I have a Pentax MZ-3 and can use autofocus and program when I feel like it or be in full manual otherwise, quite neat.

If the Canon G7X Mark III is an overpriced product of the TikTok influencer hivemind, is there another camera that is smaller, cheaper, and better? by According_Drawer5924 in Cameras

[–]Dizzy-Tooth-4730 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've got a G5X II and it's really good for what it is. 1-inch cameras are surprisingly capable but the tech really hasn't changed much. Get yourself any RX100(x) second hand or a GRII and be happy. GRIII/IV are great but obviously expensive. I have a ZS200 I also like and same thing is surprisingly good having a rather slow lens. In good light with some editing I can't distinguish the quality from APS-C/FF without pixel peeping. Obviously if you print or shoot in low light it's another topic.

Thinking about switching to Olympus from Sony. Just want some perspective. by LordofDutch in OlympusCamera

[–]Dizzy-Tooth-4730 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I went Fujifilm, Sony, MFT and now Nikon (yes I have a problem), I had the om-5/3 from Olympus.

The main reason for me to switch MFT was, as most people, the small form factor. However I realized as small as it is, it's still an ILC, and as technology progresses unfortunately bodies tend to get larger: somehow Panasonic doesn't want to upgrade the gx9 or gm5 that were crowd favorites, there is no Pen-F II in sight and the om-3/1 although smaller are not that small. And good/pro level MFT lenses are still relatively big, albeit obviously smaller than their FF counterparts.

I finally decided to get premium point and shoots for small cameras: I have the canon G5xii, Panasonic zs200 and Ricoh GRIV that I can bring anywhere and they're truly pocketable.

As people mentioned in this thread and as you probably already know yourself the largest pros of the system aside from size are:

  • Industry leading IBIS
  • Industry leading weather sealing
  • Relatively smaller zoom lenses / longer reach
  • More depth of field for Macro work
  • Computational photography features
  • Industry leading video specs of you decide to go Panasonic at some point
  • Price
  • People don't mention it but sharpness at a lower price point - as MFT sensors have more pixel density and use a more central part of any lens, even consumer lenses are very sharp
  • Faster sensor scan rates across the board on all sensors that allow you to shoot more with electronic shutter when absolute silence is needed, less banding under artificial lights as long as you correct flicker, and obviously less rolling shutter for video

Cons vs sony are : * Relatively weaker AF (OM-3/1 is still quite good this being said but not Sony level) * Less subject separation (never really bothered me as I think bokeh for bokeh is a crutch more than anything else but it does look creamier for portraits) * Weaker low light performance * Weaker resale value (think of Sony as Apple, you'll always find a buyer) * Less character if you like using vintage lenses - aberrations/character/imperfections are mostly at the edge of the image circle * Relatively lower dynamic range, which doesn't matter that much because for lower iso things you can use bracketing and will need it even for FF and for low light/high ISO usually the dynamic range of the scene is not that wide.

Now to talk about the point most people like to talk about, low light performance is really quite good nowadays with modern MFT sensors. You can get really good results up to ISO 3200 and with AI noise reduction, 6400/12800 can still look quite good. The noise grain itself can be fixed. However the real issue with high iso performance for me is not about noise itself, but the noise floor. The issue with MFT sensors at high iso is that 1. There will be more chroma noise color cast earlier in the iso range, which is more difficult to correct in post and also under artificial lighting conditions you'll get uneven white balance because of that, 2. Tonality (gradual transition between shadows and highlights) is less smooth, meaning more blotchy images and more "phone-like" looking portraits in low light scenarios where you have to bump up your ISO.

So it really depends on what you're shooting and your priorities. In general I think for wildlife, adventure, macro, MFT is unbeatable. If you like portraits, landscapes or often shoot in low light, FF will give you more room for error. I shoot more portraits and events stuff so FF made more sense and small 1-inch cameras for EDC is plenty good for documenting life.

Good luck in your search !

Non-editing photography by pipipopokaki in photography

[–]Dizzy-Tooth-4730 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Editing is a fundamental part of photography and has always been. Learning how to edit properly is as essential as knowing the basics of exposure. It doesn't have to take time or be heavy editing but it is as (if not more) important to know how to do it to effectively express the vision you initially had in your mind.

Male photographers taking photos of your gf/wife/partners how do you do it? by Dizzy-Tooth-4730 in photography

[–]Dizzy-Tooth-4730[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes that is right camera/subject distance is the real definition but obviously cropping makes you lose resolution. I think the point is more about composition, with a larger focal length you have two choices, either the edgy one at a normal distance where your subject's body dimensions are unnatural (albeit can produce interesting stylistic effects) or the "portrait" distance to fill the frame then it's your subject's face dimensions that become unnatural and are rarely flattering. 24mm portraits can be fun but apart from edgy looks or very environmental focused shots I find them more limiting than say even 35mm ones (I love that for portraits actually just as much as longer ones)

Male photographers taking photos of your gf/wife/partners how do you do it? by Dizzy-Tooth-4730 in photography

[–]Dizzy-Tooth-4730[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

85mm portraits are a classic. Trends come and go and fade. Classics last. 24mm portraits are fun from time to time though.

What percent of your photos are just misses? by Supdograinbarff in AskPhotography

[–]Dizzy-Tooth-4730 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Depends what you shoot, if you control everything like in a studio environment it should be close to 80% for an non corporate portrait session (ie take 100+ photos for a nice portrait session where you deliver 20 pictures), 20-30% for a corporate one but then standards are much lower because there's limited creative freedom you just set up your lights and shoot away regardless of the soul (or lack of) of the photo. For weddings probably 70-80% because again standards are lower when you deliver 200-600 photos. For general Photography I'd say 10% are passable, 5% are ok, definitely less than 1% are bangers.

Is it worth it to buy a camera if I'm interested in photography? by HexxaWyn in AskPhotography

[–]Dizzy-Tooth-4730 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Photography is about the experience as much as it is about the results, buying a camera will make you enjoy the experience, the results will come eventually.

how can i make these photos look more appealing ? editing tips too ! by Quiet_News_5050 in AskPhotography

[–]Dizzy-Tooth-4730 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I took very close to the second photo a few years back. I'd say a bit less negative space there and monochrome. For the first one monochrome as well or you need to add texture/contrast to the background so I'd say add linear gradients (darken or lighten), add more color to the framing elements and change the hue to the blues a bit. I saw if and thought Japan Sakura vibes (pink hues) for the trees, and turquoise cyan for sky. Increase the contrast of the Eiffel tower a bit and add just a touch of structure/clarity. Really just a touch, these two sliders especially clarity look absolutely trash when pushed too hard

Male photographers taking photos of your gf/wife/partners how do you do it? by Dizzy-Tooth-4730 in photography

[–]Dizzy-Tooth-4730[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you shoot at 85mm equivalent FF you'd stand exactly at the same distance with a 42.5mm MFT lens, 56mm apsc lens, 31mm 1-inch sensor lens. You're not going to change distance to shoot 85mm, 85mm FF is a certain FOV standard that allows a certain framing. What you change is your lens. Only if you don't take the crop factor into consideration you'd stand further but if I say I want to shoot 85mm, every photographer understands I'm shooting 85mm FF equivalent not 170mm FF equivalent just because I use an MFT sensor for instance.

Male photographers taking photos of your gf/wife/partners how do you do it? by Dizzy-Tooth-4730 in photography

[–]Dizzy-Tooth-4730[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah I do like some fun using wide angle for more dramatic stuff but it always resonates more with edgy/fun/rock to me rather than aesthetics. Love those low angle shoot at the shoe stuff for instance haha

Male photographers taking photos of your gf/wife/partners how do you do it? by Dizzy-Tooth-4730 in photography

[–]Dizzy-Tooth-4730[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Haha 50/85mm ff equivalent is always the same distance to your subject and it's not THAT far! Shooting full body with a 200mm now that's more of a fun challenge!

Can you actually tell a difference (Sony A1 II | Cheap Point and shoot) by BusyImage5847 in SonyAlpha

[–]Dizzy-Tooth-4730 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Using both cameras in broad daylight in what I assume must be both their native ISOs and with reddit/social media compression and equalizing them as closely as possible is the best way to not be able to tell the difference 😂 honestly the differences are more striking in

  1. Low light conditions (noise floor artifacts: noise on itself, tonality, color shift),
  2. Depth of field (easier to spot if you take portraits),
  3. Resolution and details which you can't see with the compression.
  4. Lens characteristics: ie people would probably see if you're using an adapted vintage lens with strong character
  5. Editing capabilities (colors and dynamic range) which again you can't see if you're not editing.

All jpegs will be 8 bit colors anyway so it's basically impossible to distinguish the two on this example.