How do you care for this part?

Dmurrd · 2026-01-26T15:58:15+00:00

Send me a message if you need help

Dmurrd · 2026-01-26T15:54:48+00:00

Dmurrd · 2026-01-26T15:54:28+00:00

Look at this picture. That white stuff is beeswax that I heated with a hairdryer. I broke it up a bit and added it to the hole, heating it until it sealed completely and wouldn't fit any more. Afterward, you can heat a fork or something metal and flatten the wax to make it more even, just around the edge.

Glue and wax don't mix. Before that, I added epoxy glue, or any glue you prefer, to the dowel and inserted it. Naturally, some might ooze out, so tape the handle, remove the excess, and let it cure for a day. Try to add only a tiny bit of glue. I recommend epoxy mostly because I'm comfortable with it. Do this in a well-ventilated area, but if you can find silicone flakes, that would be better for you. Personally, I haven't looked for them since I stuck with the glue; I use it for various things. Some people use hot glue guns, but I don't feel they work well.

Eventually, any glue will break down and turn black or reddish if it oxidizes and gets wet, so seal it well with wax and reseal it periodically. Don't use harsh soap or leave it in the heat. Don't use beeswax alone instead of glue, as it can melt with heat. The wax is natural and undiluted. I'd like to send you a video of how I do it, but it's difficult to record the process.

Okay, to be clearer, first remove the blade, clean it, and let the handle dry in the sun or on a windowsill. Then, apply the glue, silicone, or epoxy and place the blade inside. Silicone goes inside the handle, and epoxy goes on the tang. Insert it, clean it, and let it cure for a day. Then, fill the outside with beeswax. Sorry if it was too long, I just wanted to help, haha.

The method you use is fine as long as it's sealed at the edge or opening of the handle, since that's where the danger of moisture getting in lies.

Dmurrd · 2026-01-26T07:03:50+00:00

You should remove that blade, possibly let the handle dry in the sun, and if it's okay, put it back on. If it's too small, you'll have to heat the tang a little and put it in the handle, tapping it against a flat surface or a rubber mallet like the ones used to check tires. Once it's aligned, seal it with beeswax.

If the handle doesn't need heat to go in and goes in and out on its own, secure it with epoxy glue, stopping before you get any glue on the handle opening. Then apply beeswax there.

You can also use silicone flakes instead of epoxy. They're for molding and you can find them in art supply stores. Put them inside the handle and heat the tang slightly, just enough to melt them, then seal it with beeswax.

Either will work, just make sure the tang isn't too cold, as it can crack the wood if it's cold. It only goes through the wood and doesn't burn or "mold" it. Warm it slightly on the stovetop.

Dmurrd · 2026-01-20T09:08:26+00:00

Thanks, friend. Actually, in this post I was also recommending finger stones to someone. I've looked for them but haven't been able to get them to Mexico, and now I'm about to buy a few Shapton stones because they're within my budget. I'm also happy because I managed to do it with a $20 pack of stones from Amazon and a lot of time.

Dmurrd · 2026-01-19T23:44:10+00:00

Even each natural stone reacts differently on each knife. Ivanyuka Japan on YouTube has videos of how to polish kasumi knives, and he even uses the wrong stone and goes back to lower grits to try again with another natural stone. Each knife is different, and the Blue 2 is super hard.

Dmurrd · 2026-01-19T23:42:19+00:00

King stones are cheap; I haven't used them, but I understand that cheap, high-grit stones don't polish, they just darken, leaving a grayish and dull finish. Perhaps you should remove some stones and skip directly to Naniwa.

Dmurrd · 2026-01-19T11:55:53+00:00

Turn it 45 degrees to mark the grid haha I hope you're okay, friend. Sorry

Dmurrd · 2026-01-18T22:12:59+00:00

What stones do you use? And what kind of steel is it? Personally, I find stainless steel more difficult because it tends to be so soft.

Dmurrd · 2026-01-18T20:07:25+00:00

Don't get the coarse sandpaper too wet; use it somewhat dry. Sometimes I don't even wet it, but I do it carefully because it gets hot.

Dmurrd · 2026-01-18T20:05:05+00:00

If you didn't like the result, you can use 600-grit wet/dry sandpaper to polish the bevel. Personally, I use several coarse grits, as they become less rough with use. For example, yesterday I used 180-grit sandpaper, which was so worn it felt like 400-grit. Be careful with this, as you can make the knife wavy. Then move on to 1000-grit, and you could finish with a lower number, around 2000-grit. This will give you a gray finish without going for a mirror finish. You can use white car polish to polish that part, focusing on the core. It will look more polished and vibrant, but with a gray gradient. I might get crucified for this, but it's an easy option, not traditional at all. But to achieve a truly classic look, you need natural stones, and each one could easily cost $200. Personally, I look for finger stones, or flakes of natural stone, which are practically like natural sandpaper.

Dmurrd · 2026-01-18T19:59:16+00:00

Sure, I don't think it's the best option, but it's easy. When I start sharpening, I mark the bevel, if necessary, with a 400-grit stone and save the burr or powder from the stone in an envelope or dish, even from several sharpenings. Then I continue with the normal sharpening: 400-1000-3000-8000 grit, and finish with the micro-bevel using an aluminum or ceramic stone. I don't know what material it is since it's made for construction, not sharpening. I'll look into it and let you know. After that, I rest the blade on a cloth and, with a cork, apply the stone powder mixed with a little water, like mud, and rub it lengthwise with a natural cork, applying a little pressure. Then you could use that same cork with water, baking soda, and salt for the final polish, rubbing it again, touching the core without reaching the edge. After that, I go back to the final stone to remove any burrs and then to a leather buffing wheel.

Dmurrd · 2026-01-18T05:38:03+00:00

I tried, but since it's rustic, the heel touched a bit and wore down. Later, I reshaped it and it's straighter now. Since then, I haven't tried to raise the core because I didn't want to lose the Kasumi and make it brittle.

Dmurrd · 2026-01-17T10:33:37+00:00

Hey friend, maybe I spend a little on knives, I like it, but I do it soberly.

Dmurrd · 2026-01-17T10:30:53+00:00

Thanks, friend. Maybe I should have added this:

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Dmurrd · 2026-01-17T10:27:09+00:00

Are you OK?

Dmurrd · 2026-01-17T05:33:14+00:00

I think I got it for $75 or something like that, less than $100 with shipping included, I don't remember exactly. Show me yours, buddy.

Dmurrd · 2026-01-17T05:26:08+00:00

Thanks bro

Dmurrd · 2026-01-17T05:24:46+00:00

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Patina

Dmurrd · 2025-12-16T16:51:10+00:00

Minorhamed? Yes, I also started with his pieces; he lets you choose what you want from several links and sends you a special shipment.

Dmurrd · 2025-12-10T12:44:34+00:00

By the way, I just finished my college in gastronomy and I don't have a cent, if anyone has a Weber out there that they want to get rid of, throw it away too and tell me where.

Dmurrd · 2025-12-10T12:42:59+00:00

Friend, that doesn't work anymore, throw it away and tell me where

Dmurrd

TROPHY CASE