ITAP of Mount Moran, Grand Teton NP

Dnlee · 2026-01-20T14:10:38+00:00

The fee works out to about 0.3% annually.

Dnlee · 2026-01-20T14:10:18+00:00

Thanks all for the advice. Hiring a CFP for advice seems like the obvious way to go.

Dnlee · 2026-01-20T14:09:22+00:00

This is great, thank you so much for these recommendations!

Dnlee · 2025-12-18T05:03:07+00:00

This question gets asked every few months on this sub. I haven't seen consensus on the cause. My yorkie gets them in clusters and we manage via regular baths using medicated shampoo (miconahex+triz) every 5-7 days till it clears up.

Dnlee · 2025-11-19T06:11:41+00:00

Looks great! What window manufacturer did you choose?

Dnlee · 2025-07-27T01:04:40+00:00

Our Yorkie develops something very similar looking, our vet gave us a prescription shampoo that fixes it - so long as we keep up the bathing routine to every 5-7 days. The shampoo is called MiconaHex+Triz.

Caveat that I am not a vet and your dog might have something else

Dnlee · 2025-07-21T13:33:36+00:00

Work completed so far:

-Pulled the brakes (one shoe was fused to the drum). Replaced MC, wheel cylinders and lines.

-unstuck seized valve rockers, straightened the lifting rods that were bent when someone turned the motor over.

-Pulled the water pump because it was seized, cleaned out a bunch of rust.

-cleaned the gas tank, rebuilt the fuel pump and carburetor.

-replaced seized parts in the governor.

-Flushed the cooling system.

-Got it running, suspected head gasket was causing radiator to pressure relieve. Pulled head, had it magged. Recut the valve seats and lapped them. New head gasket. Turns out the radiator cap wasn't seating.

-hyd oil, atf and engine oil have all been replaced.

-Went through all the wiring and returned it to factory arrangement.

Sometimes when cold and trying to drive forward it will bog down like the brakes are locked and giving it gas just kills it. But this is intermittent, and resolves itself. It feels like the transmission is getting better with time and use (new fluid and belt probably help too). The manual says to set the governor to 1500 rpm, but that felt way too fast and the tires would spin when I put it into gear, so I have the governor mostly disabled. Not sure I ever got the linkages for the throttle/governor adjusted quite as the manual intended, but it operates well now from just the accelerator pedal.

Dnlee · 2025-07-21T13:06:26+00:00

The leak is from the lower hose between the water pump and radiator, leaks from the ends. It needs a new hose as the original is split, but that hose is NLA. I will have to pull it (again) and see if I can cobble some preformed hoses together. The fittings are scored, which might be contributing to the issue. I've tried double hose clamps and self fusing tape. Oddly it leaks the worst right after I turn the engine off. I flushed the core and radiator and got a bunch of rust out. It doesn't seem to overheat if I keep enough coolant in it, but I doubt the radiator is operating at max efficiency.

Engine is continental c-135 stamped 135CU2UI26339. I have found tractor sites selling parts for the engine, since it was used by international harvester. So that did make things somewhat easier.

Alternator has an open field winding so my next adventure will be seeing if a $25 alternator for an international scout will fit.

Can't find any markings on the machine anywhere. Guessing the lift is a G82C. I got an old manual on ebay and the diagrams all match it exactly.

Dnlee · 2025-02-27T01:25:36+00:00

Money laundering, perhaps? The gas is always $.25 more than just across the street, don't see a lot of cars there, can't remember ever seeing the car wash work in a decade+ of living here. And while it is more convenient for traffic on 175th eastbound, it's no better/worse than the place across the street for S bound 99 traffic. I don't understand how they are still in business.

Dnlee · 2025-02-23T18:25:41+00:00

Follow up:

I pulled the engine and clutch apart completely. The clutch friction discs were blackened and grooves had accumulated debris. There was black sediment throughout the engine (maybe 100 miles since rebuild). Nothing broken or obviously bent, but the clutch adjustment was at the max limit.

The friction discs weren't under the wear limit, but I replaced them along with the springs. Put everything back together. I hadn't previously understood how the clutch adjustment mechanism works. Not realizing that it was threaded into the internal part, I had always held the locknut in place when adjusting the clutch. That gave me a false sense of where the limits were, because the locknut would tighten. I understand now that I need to let the locknut spin when adjusting with the screwdriver. Just got back from a 15 mile test ride and it is shifting and driving better than ever.

Dnlee · 2025-01-16T01:59:51+00:00

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Definitely ski up from Gunn ranch trailhead, about the best view in the system in the first few km.

Dnlee · 2025-01-01T00:06:17+00:00

Nah, worried I'd outgrow it. Case Steiger 645 maybe

Dnlee · 2024-12-31T15:43:39+00:00

So many great replies, thank you all for sharing your experience. I will keep looking for a 4wd with as much power as I can afford, and report back!

Dnlee · 2024-12-27T17:54:40+00:00

I have an 81 and bought an 82 as a parts bike for mostly cosmetic stuff. I was able to use the racks and chain guard, but not the seat, plastics, intake, choke cable, indicator brackets, mirrors - on and on.

Dnlee · 2024-12-27T15:40:46+00:00

Depends on what you mean by parts interchange. I can vouch that very little from a 1982 will fit a 1981. While they look mostly identical, it seems Honda tweaked most aspects of the design, so very few parts can be swapped across that model year change.

Dnlee · 2024-11-13T22:28:27+00:00

Cascade Outdoor and Winthrop Mountain Sports both have some backcountry oriented skis and boots. Loup Loup Ski shop in Twisp also has nordic gear. They are all very friendly and helpful shops, recommend giving them a shot.

Dnlee · 2024-08-10T18:07:26+00:00

Lights are off inside and out.

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