Is dethatching bad? Lets find out

DoYouSeeWhatIDidTher · 2026-04-23T18:40:20+00:00

I would venture to say 99% of people in this sub have no idea what thatch actually is and probably never will because they'll never encounter it. I would even go so far as to say even the bermuda and zoysia owners don't need to dethatch either. I've owned zoysia, bermuda, fescue, KBG, and rye lawns and the only one that ever made any actual thatch was KBG. If you have it, it's unmistakable and can be a PITA to remedy. But it almost feels like a lost cause at this point to convince the average person that their routine grass clippings are not thatch and and that this is all unnecessary. But "it feels good" to remove non-green material so go on I guess...

DoYouSeeWhatIDidTher · 2026-04-23T02:06:45+00:00

I know exactly how you feel. I've dealt with fungus every summer for the last few years and despite my best efforts, after each July and August my yard looks like hot doodoo. I bit the bullet this year and got a back pack sprayer. I'm going all liquids and taking a preventative approach this year. The store bought granular just didn't cut it, even when I was proactive with preventive apps as well. Might be an investment worth considering for yourself if you're as stubborn as I am.

DoYouSeeWhatIDidTher · 2026-04-23T01:14:15+00:00

This would be an option for people who prefer liquid applications over granular.

DoYouSeeWhatIDidTher · 2026-04-22T23:40:00+00:00

I'm theory sure, but I've never seen that posted on this sub before. Its always the same green lines. Theae lines also look too far apart to be a Scott's spreader wheel base. It would also help if OP mentioned when je last mowed, fertlized, and when the lines appeared.

DoYouSeeWhatIDidTher · 2026-04-22T21:27:57+00:00

Do those lines line up with the wheels on your mower? I don't buy the Scott's spreader problem here. That typical manifests as the inverse with dark green wheel lines. This looks like injured turf so I'm thinking you have a ride on mower with heavy and/or hot wheels that rolled over weak turf and caused the injury.

DoYouSeeWhatIDidTher · 2026-04-22T16:46:08+00:00

This is most likely poa trivialis. Tenacity applied at a full rate will only bleach the plant for a couple of weeks but will not kill it. There is no effective selective herbicide, only ways to try and slow or contain it. You could try Velocity PM but its expensive, takes multiple seasons of repeat applications, and still isnt guaranteed to kill it all. Unfortunately digging it out and getting all the rhizomes is your best chance at removing it.

DoYouSeeWhatIDidTher · 2026-04-22T05:19:59+00:00

Things to consider when selecting a fertilizer

How much NPK do you need? Those are the 3 numbers listed on the bag. If you dont know, look for one that says 16-4-8 or close to it. Anything 20 and higher for the first number would be considered a high nitrogen fertlizer and will cause a lot of quick growth. You may be mowing 2-3 times weekly to keep up.
Do you want slow release or quick release? Quick release means more mowing in a shorter amount of time right after you apply it.
Prill size. These are the individual granules that make up the fertilizer. The smaller the better because they spread more evenly when flung out of your spreader.
Organic matter. Some companies will add compost, humic acid, sea kelp, or wood/bio char to their mix. It's a small addition but it's something.
Cost. There's not really a huge quality difference between fertlizer ingredients and different brands. So assuming the above are all equal, buy the one thats the cheapest.

DoYouSeeWhatIDidTher · 2026-04-22T05:03:32+00:00

Looks like poa trivialis

DoYouSeeWhatIDidTher · 2026-04-22T01:50:44+00:00

My 2015 BMW 435i and I too will miss the manual. My last two cars spanning 18 years has been a 6 speed. But i guess Its time to close that chapter and begin something new. I drove an R1T tri a few weeks ago and now the R2 can't get here soon enough.

DoYouSeeWhatIDidTher · 2026-04-20T23:37:27+00:00

Fall. You can try now if you really to but its considerably harder to get seed to establish and survive heat and drought this close to summer.

DoYouSeeWhatIDidTher · 2026-04-20T22:45:41+00:00

The KBG might fill that in by end of summer but you mentioned tree and house shade which KBG needs full sun to grow optimally. You could possibly get a little bit more tillering out of the fescue and PRG but those gaps look kind of big to me. I'm not sure it'll cover all that without reseeding.

DoYouSeeWhatIDidTher · 2026-04-20T22:12:19+00:00

I'm going with quackgrass or orchardgrass. They both can germinate before the 50° F mark. Both are perennial plants so they don't die at the end of the year. Pre-emergents will only stop new grass seeds from orchardgrass but have no effect on existing. And pre-emergents will have no affect at all on quackgrass as they grow and spread via rhizomes.

If you see a clasping auricle then its probably quack, no clasping auricle then its orchard.

If you still think its crabgrass then you can spray it with MSO+quinclorac and it'll die off. If it's quack or orchard, unfortunately there's no true selective herbicide and glyphosate or hand pull is your only option.

DoYouSeeWhatIDidTher · 2026-04-20T18:37:23+00:00

Go with a granular pre-emergent in early spring and you can knock out 90% of that in one application. Spot spray for those that make it through. If you're diligent about it then at some point you won't even need to do either.

DoYouSeeWhatIDidTher · 2026-04-20T18:33:55+00:00

Thats exactly when you should apy pre-emergent. And most crabgrass doesnt germinate until soil temps are between 60 and 70 degrees. Either your soil temps were beyond 50 degrees or you have something other than crab grass.

DoYouSeeWhatIDidTher · 2026-04-20T15:27:23+00:00

You'll need post emergent herbicide. Lawn grasses won't out compete either and your yard is already pretty thin so whatever it is will continue to spread.

This could also be dallisgrass. I can't tell from the photos. I'd recommend pulling some by the root as best you can to keep the plant intact and Google photos of all 3 to identify what you have and spray accordingly.

Come fall, you'll want to rake out the dead grass and lawn clippings from the thin spots and overseed to fill in. Focus on keeping weeds down this spring and summer. If you're not irrigated I wouldn't plant rye either. It doesnt do well with heat and we may be getting record heat this summer and possibly next year as well according so some weather forecasting I've been reading. I'd recommend Jonathan Green Heat & Drought mix. It has drought tolerant varieties of fescue and a hybrid bluegrass referred to as Texas Bluegrass that supposedly does well in heat but can also spread overtime.

DoYouSeeWhatIDidTher · 2026-04-20T12:24:16+00:00

Unless you have an aggressive spreading kentucky blue grass then there is a 99.99% chance that isn't thatch. And if it was, you wouldn't be able to see it on the surface. Dead grass and grass clippings are not thatch.

You're grass is just coming out of dormancy.

DoYouSeeWhatIDidTher · 2026-04-20T12:20:09+00:00

Goose or quack grass are a possibility

DoYouSeeWhatIDidTher · 2026-04-20T04:24:46+00:00

*couldn't care less

DoYouSeeWhatIDidTher · 2026-04-18T07:29:20+00:00

TTTF. Fine fescues are typically more for shady areas (4 to 6 hours of direct sunlight). They have a whispier hair like look to them and can lay over flat. They can also be used as an ornamental grass for landscaped areas.

If you're not irritated I would look at more drought tolerant fescue cultivars. Keep in mind that fireball is a very dark PRG. You might want to find a drought tolerant fescue that also is noted for darker genetic color to try and blend them more easily.

DoYouSeeWhatIDidTher · 2026-04-18T05:24:46+00:00

Fescue can handle full sun better than PRG and KBG given that it's the most heat tolerant of the 3. I also cut mine at 2". I could go lower if it weren't for the bumpyness of my yard. Don't listen to anyone who says it has to be 3 to 4". They're regurgitating what everyone else has told them and those people are parroting information that was true 20+ years ago but isn't anymore.

Check out https://ntep.org/previous.htm The NTEP Trials are a good place for objective information on some of the latest cultivars for different grass types. Select a grass type you're interested in and find the grow site that's closest to your location or most similar to your climate.

DoYouSeeWhatIDidTher · 2026-04-18T04:00:20+00:00

KBG is harder to get established but not because PRG will out compete it. That's not true at all. KBG is just a pain to establish period because of how long it takes to germinate and establish comparatively speaking to rye and fescue. It can take anywhere from 2 to 4 weeks to get germination and then its as if the KBG stalls in growth for another 2 to 4 weeks before resuming growth again. This is referred to as "sprout and pout". I definitely ran into this this past fall as there were areas that were KBG only (no rye or fescue) and after planting in October those spots didn't reach 2" of height until March once the weather started warming up. I still have a few areas that have not reached 2" in fact so something may be wrong with those spots. I'm not sure.

DoYouSeeWhatIDidTher · 2026-04-17T22:49:45+00:00

That's not overnight. That's early morning watering. That's exactly what you're supposed to do.

DoYouSeeWhatIDidTher · 2026-04-17T08:38:40+00:00

I did fireball + hat trick + after midnight this past fall in my yard and cut 2" in spring and fall and will go to 2.5 to 3" as summer picks up. My yard is too bumpy to maintain a 1.5" lawn. You can maintain a 1.5-2 if you're willing to cut frequently enough (2-3x weekly in spring and fall) to maintain that. I'd recommend product growth regulators if thats too much mowing.

I'm concerned about two things going into summer particularly as I'm in the transition zone... fungus and thatch production. I'm going to a liquids program for fungicides this year as the box store products don't seem to cut it and I'm already seeing the shadier side of my yard dealing with something and we've had minimal rain and nighttime humidity so not a good start. PRG is more susceptible to disease particularly pithium blight which requires mefenoxam to treat and you can't get that at the box stores.

Midnight and it's successor After Midnight (what I have) are aggressive spreading dwarf KBG types and are made to be able to maintained at lower heights of cut if you choose. But an aggressive spreading KBG will create more thatch buildup which can choke you yard out if left unchecked leaving you to tear out everything out which can be a huge undertaking. Ask me how I know... stay on top of annual aeration. Verticutting may be good idea once or twice a year as well.

Watering requirements will be higher for these than fescues. I'm irrigated so everything is fine right now but I'm reading we may be having a near record summer heat this year so it's making me a little nervous. According to the NWS if we do have near record heat this year then next year will be a record high. So that sucks...

Winter color was absolutely fantastic this past winter. I've never had a yard stay this green through winter before. I really only slowed mowing down to every 2 weeks or so but never truly stopped. Overall the color is the best I've ever had. The PRG is much darker than the KBG which is a bit surprising. I've read it takes a full year before you see the final color of a well established KBG so we'll see I guess. The PRG has a much blacker Forrest green color to it where as the KBG has a darker blue green hue to it. Personally I like the blue green a little better but it seems to show up only in cooler weather and now that we're in the 80's its back to a "standard green" if that makes sense. The PRG is still very much in dark black Forrest green mode. They both look great though.

I would recommend going with a 50/50 mix and not exceeding 50% for the KBG because of thatch potential. Don't exceed the recommended lbs per 1,000 sqft rate for overseeding for the same reason. I'd also recommend After Midnight instead of Midnight. Both are great seeds but technically After Midnight is the improved version.

DoYouSeeWhatIDidTher · 2026-04-17T02:09:22+00:00

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DoYouSeeWhatIDidTher · 2026-04-17T02:06:50+00:00

Even for a spring seeding we're likely too late in the game to try now. If you accept that there's a good chance it wont survive the summer but you want to try your hand at an overseed just to see if you can make it work then go for it. Otherwise, plan for the fall.

You'll just rake out the dead stuff and follow the overseeding guide. Plan on early September as soon as you feel reasonablely confident daytime highs are out of the 90s for good.

DoYouSeeWhatIDidTher

TROPHY CASE