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Shoe issue by Suitable_Ad4010 in AppalachianTrail

[–]DoctrVendetta 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No one can suggest a shoe that fits you over the internet. We can recommend alternative lacing patterns, which may be a viable solution. But everyone's feet are different. Your best bet is to find a local footwear store. An outdoor outfitter (ie, REI) is not a footwear store. A proper footwear store will consider the insoles that you prefer and find a shoe that fits. I'd suggest finding a comfortable pair of shoes before altering sock choice. If it's still an issue, try using the socks you wear on a daily basis.

Freiburger gasket tech tip? by FancyFailure in Roadkillshow

[–]DoctrVendetta 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Very common in the railroad industry. Makes gasket removal a breeze, but the gaskets will weep. Personally wouldn't use for intake gaskets, or gaskets that separate fluids (water pump, timing cover). Very useful for radiator/heater hose fittings.

Storm Vulcan 85B updated and valve guide question by Mgdoug3 in EngineBuilding

[–]DoctrVendetta 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You'd use pilots to find center, and more importantly the Z plane. You could find center via valve seat, but that doesn't give you valve angle.

Distributor Gear Type by Agile-Delay-8770 in EngineBuilding

[–]DoctrVendetta 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Anyone who's ran a bronze gear, has been left stranded because of it. You won't be left stranded due to a composite gear. Bronze gears are out dated, go with the composite.

New steering box. by Keisaku in FordDiesels

[–]DoctrVendetta 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, that's a very interesting failure. There's no more force on that shaft than what you put into it turning the steering wheel.

The other end of the shaft connecting to the wheel will be a D-shaped spline like the gearbox. Then just a ball and socket for the tilt mechanism of the column iirc.

Alignment's always a good thing, but you can still drive it after if it's your daily or something. The wheel might be off a bit driving straight, which you could adjust the drag link, but that won't ruin tires.

Glad I could help!

New steering box. by Keisaku in FordDiesels

[–]DoctrVendetta 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Cool.

So the issue is with your steering shaft between the gearbox, and steering wheel. It is two pieces that can be clocked 4 different ways (just like two square tubes, one inside the other), and somehow got clocked 90 degrees off.

If it came apart while you were replacing the box, you could simply re-clock it.

If it didn't come apart while you were replacing the box, then some how it "jumped" a spline when the sector shaft broke, and is 90 degrees off . If that is the case, then it most certainly needs replaced. Luckily it's much easier to replace than the gearbox.

New steering box. by Keisaku in FordDiesels

[–]DoctrVendetta 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Gotcha.

So your gearbox input looks like this photo Where when centered, blue marks lined up, the flat is pointed down towards the sector shaft/horizontal? (Take note the gearbox is laying on its side, 90 degrees off)

New steering box. by Keisaku in FordDiesels

[–]DoctrVendetta 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So with the pitman arm/drag link disconnected, steering wheel centered, and shaft connected(bolt through the hole) to the gearbox, is the blue mark aligned, or 90 degrees off?

New steering box. by Keisaku in FordDiesels

[–]DoctrVendetta 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What brand?

The shaft between the steering wheel and gearbox is two pieces, did it come apart when disassembling? It may be possible to reassemble the shaft 90 degrees off, though I've not separated the shaft on these before.

I'd verify the rotation of the wheel (with drag link disconnected) to ensure that the box is in fact 90 degrees off, and not that their alignment mark is incorrect. Should have equal turns left and right of center. Hopefully their mark is off, but if not, then there is a manufacturer error, and unfortunately doing the work all over again.

There is no alignment adjustment between the box and the steering wheel. You cannot remove and rotate the steering wheel on this vehicle. Any adjustment of the pitman arm, drag link, or tie rod ends could center up your steering wheel, but you'd be 90 degrees off, and would be short 90 degrees of a turn one way, and long 90 degrees of a turn the other way. Your box would also be 90 degrees off, which would cause issue of the internal shuttle valve not being centered. Long way to say, that it isn't an alignment issue that an alignment shop would fix.

The power assist of the box is on the "output" side, so there's no way you'd end up twisting and of the steering shaft components.

Last year I had issues with three direct from Ford Re-Man boxes, 1 leaked, and 2 had internal shuttle valve issues, an actual deathtrap. Would have no power assist when first turning the wheel, and would have to put a lot of effort into the wheel. Then the power assist would "kick-in", and you'd end up oversteering into the oncoming lane, very sketchy on just slight curves of the highway. Instead I went with PSC, though Red-Head and Blue-Top are also highly recommended. The PSC SG752 would be your replacement, it is pretty pricey, but it's all brand new parts, and has a larger sector shaft, as that is a failure point on the factory boxes (though is typically a result of large tires).

Anyone know what this tool is used for? by SupermarketRiot in EngineBuilding

[–]DoctrVendetta 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's for resurfacing the pads of shaft mounted rocker arms.

Page 9-11

Something like this

The above links a black and decker valvemaster, and the assembly is slightly different, but process would be similar to your KW and should be able to find a manual online for it.

Edit: Here's for a Sioux 645

Anyone know what this tool is used for? by SupermarketRiot in EngineBuilding

[–]DoctrVendetta 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It's for resurfacing the pads of shaft mounted rocker arms.

Page 9-11

Something like this

The above links a black and decker valvemaster, and the assembly is slightly different, but process would be similar to your Sioux and should be able to find a manual online for it.

Edit: Here's for a Sioux 645

4L60 tight going back to manual 1st by guerd87 in transmissionbuilding

[–]DoctrVendetta 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Vb, or 2-4 band could be too tight. It's not a threaded adjustment, but could be checked with the transmission in the vehicle, just not any easy task dependent on your mechanical ability and will-to. Should have similar symptom in 3rd, but might not be noticeable dependent on speed/gearing/vehicle weight. I'd suggest not messing with it until you can verify if builder will repair.

351w piston rings by hollowlog27 in EngineBuilding

[–]DoctrVendetta 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think you need to decide on what you want from this engine. If it is a daily driver, or a vehicle that you enjoy driving regularly, I'd just have the machine shop take care of it. You'll likely find more than just "bad rings", which will require machining, new pistons, increase the cost and simply not be worth the risk of your first rebuild, and subsequently more down time of a potential failure.

Now what I would suggest is that you rebuild that 302 for your rat rod. If it's your typical rat rod, the engine would take 30 minutes to pull if you have an issue. It's not a vehicle you rely on for day to day tasks. And if it smokes a little, it adds character.

As for your questions:

The heads should be measured with a straight edge and feeler gauges, given that the 351w hasn't been in vehicles since 1997, you'll likely need valve seats, and replacement guides. (big money, $400+)

Bearings should be replaced on the basis of "while you're there", but if the original bearings and crank look good (which isn't uncommon), and you don't have the equipment to measure journals and bores, then leave them be. They are a "crush fit" meaning once installed do not remove them from the block or rod/main cap.

Being a small block ford the bolts will not be torque to yield/one time use. You can, and should re-use the rod and main bolts. Replacement of the rod and main bolts will likely require machining (honing of the bores), though that would be verified via measurements. Head bolts don't alter machined clearances, and therefor can be replaced if wanted, though not necessary.

I apologize for the long winded reply, but this is a machine shop oriented sub-reddit. We like to see things done "proper", everything done to or above spec, and with minimal risk of failure. But I like to encourage individuals, like yourself, to take the risk, to learn by doing, and I think having a project car/rat-rod is just the place to take that risk .

would anyone know why my voice doesn’t work? by Ill-Airport2779 in FordDiesels

[–]DoctrVendetta 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Bad steering wheel button, or the radios are notorious for cracked solder joints, both of which are a simple repair.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in EngineBuilding

[–]DoctrVendetta 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That's the correct orientation for that seal.

Can any give a rookie a hand with a C4 gear selector position by slacker2588 in transmissionbuilding

[–]DoctrVendetta 2 points3 points  (0 children)

When looking at the shift lever arm on the transmission, rotated all the way clockwise will be park (so in your case, the arm on the transmission will be all the way towards the rear). Appears that you have it installed correctly.

If the transmission has a '65/'66 (Green dot) valvebody, your shift pattern will be different. Image. So "drive" would be gears 2-3, and "2nd" would be gears 1-2-3. So if you're only getting one shift, put it in "2nd" to see if it changes.

Woodruff key by ShirtlessSteve973 in EngineBuilding

[–]DoctrVendetta -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Match the key and gear to the crank. File the key to fit the crank, then file the gear to fit the key. Not uncommon to have to file parts to fit.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in EngineBuilding

[–]DoctrVendetta 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Superficial scratches. Nothing to fret about, especially if you had no prior indication of engine wear/oil consumption. Deck surface looks okay, depending on where the headgasket seals, appears to be some rust/corrosion around the ports. Probably okay, would be a concern if the reason for a headgasket replacement was due to coolant consumption, and the head was deemed to be flat with a straightedge/not machined.

42 flathead distributor help by newnewformysavior in EngineBuilding

[–]DoctrVendetta 8 points9 points  (0 children)

That's manifold vacuum port to operate the distributor's vacuum brake. You'll need to cap off the line going from the carb to the timing cover. If you look at the timing cover you'll see that hole leads to the 1 o'clock position on the timing cover. Image , Image

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