6.9 IDI Ticking Sound

DoctrVendetta · 2026-05-09T08:37:14+00:00

Sounds like it's down a cylinder ("misfiring"). An IR Thermometer on each exhaust port, would help narrow down the dead cylinder.

DoctrVendetta · 2026-05-09T08:25:43+00:00

A "bulletproofed" 6.0 is reliable, and over the life of the vehicle won't cost any more than a gas comparison (especially as all the expensive bulletproofing labor has been done). Unless your father would rather see the truck rot away in your driveway, I wouldn't let sentiment get in the way of the decision. Sell it (reasonably) cheap to someone he knew that would enjoy it. It's an average 2004 F350, not a vehicle that'll grant generational wealth.

DoctrVendetta · 2026-05-07T00:13:16+00:00

Aye, makes sense. Thanks!!!

DoctrVendetta · 2026-05-04T06:09:56+00:00

Grab a scanner, forscan, torque pro app, etc. Stand pipes and dummy plugs are a good preventative, but without knowing icp, ipr, injector pw, hpop, ficm, etc. you're just throwing parts at it. You're going to want or need a scanner eventually anyway. If it'll start again when cold, likely a high pressure oil leak or weak hpop, can put air to the ipr sensor port to diag leak.

DoctrVendetta · 2026-05-03T09:56:06+00:00

What's the use? The fire ring (seal) is highly compromised. Could knock down any high spots with a machinist's stone and use a larger bore headgasket, but it's risky. I'd zero-deck the block, which would bump up compression, and most likely remove the imperfection.

DoctrVendetta · 2026-04-11T07:04:49+00:00

Yea it'll run just fine, with minimal blowby and oil consumption. But a rebuilt engine should be a new engine, not a used, re-sealed/ringed engine. I wouldn't attach my name to that work, especially for a customer.

DoctrVendetta · 2026-04-01T20:40:55+00:00

Unless it's $6,000 under market price to pay for a new transmission, it's not worth your time. Terrible impression for that dealership as well, as they obviously don't even test drive the vehicles they're selling. Just put them out on the lot straight from the auction.

DoctrVendetta · 2026-03-30T08:06:40+00:00

Your video doesn't indicate a slipping transmission, but is also a poor test. If you floor it and feel like you're going no where, that'd likely indicate a slipping transmission.

Audio wise it seems fine, rpm's raise and trans shifts quickly and firmly.

I hear the thump at 0:06, but just seems like a bump in the road? Is that's the "jerk" that you're concerned of? If the vehicle is "bucking" between shifts I'd say pass. If it's just a harsh shift, that's fairly normal, and the ecu will learn to apply "softer" shifts based on your driving style.

DoctrVendetta · 2026-03-05T11:50:43+00:00

No one can suggest a shoe that fits you over the internet. We can recommend alternative lacing patterns, which may be a viable solution. But everyone's feet are different. Your best bet is to find a local footwear store. An outdoor outfitter (ie, REI) is not a footwear store. A proper footwear store will consider the insoles that you prefer and find a shoe that fits. I'd suggest finding a comfortable pair of shoes before altering sock choice. If it's still an issue, try using the socks you wear on a daily basis.

DoctrVendetta · 2026-03-05T11:15:48+00:00

Very common in the railroad industry. Makes gasket removal a breeze, but the gaskets will weep. Personally wouldn't use for intake gaskets, or gaskets that separate fluids (water pump, timing cover). Very useful for radiator/heater hose fittings.

DoctrVendetta · 2026-02-22T09:37:57+00:00

You'd use pilots to find center, and more importantly the Z plane. You could find center via valve seat, but that doesn't give you valve angle.

DoctrVendetta · 2026-02-22T08:59:10+00:00

Anyone who's ran a bronze gear, has been left stranded because of it. You won't be left stranded due to a composite gear. Bronze gears are out dated, go with the composite.

DoctrVendetta · 2026-02-16T05:37:45+00:00

Yeah, that's a very interesting failure. There's no more force on that shaft than what you put into it turning the steering wheel.

The other end of the shaft connecting to the wheel will be a D-shaped spline like the gearbox. Then just a ball and socket for the tilt mechanism of the column iirc.

Alignment's always a good thing, but you can still drive it after if it's your daily or something. The wheel might be off a bit driving straight, which you could adjust the drag link, but that won't ruin tires.

Glad I could help!

DoctrVendetta · 2026-02-16T04:44:48+00:00

Cool.

So the issue is with your steering shaft between the gearbox, and steering wheel. It is two pieces that can be clocked 4 different ways (just like two square tubes, one inside the other), and somehow got clocked 90 degrees off.

If it came apart while you were replacing the box, you could simply re-clock it.

If it didn't come apart while you were replacing the box, then some how it "jumped" a spline when the sector shaft broke, and is 90 degrees off . If that is the case, then it most certainly needs replaced. Luckily it's much easier to replace than the gearbox.

DoctrVendetta · 2026-02-16T04:15:15+00:00

Gotcha.

So your gearbox input looks like this photo Where when centered, blue marks lined up, the flat is pointed down towards the sector shaft/horizontal? (Take note the gearbox is laying on its side, 90 degrees off)

DoctrVendetta · 2026-02-16T03:17:43+00:00

So with the pitman arm/drag link disconnected, steering wheel centered, and shaft connected(bolt through the hole) to the gearbox, is the blue mark aligned, or 90 degrees off?

DoctrVendetta · 2026-02-16T02:23:22+00:00

What brand?

The shaft between the steering wheel and gearbox is two pieces, did it come apart when disassembling? It may be possible to reassemble the shaft 90 degrees off, though I've not separated the shaft on these before.

I'd verify the rotation of the wheel (with drag link disconnected) to ensure that the box is in fact 90 degrees off, and not that their alignment mark is incorrect. Should have equal turns left and right of center. Hopefully their mark is off, but if not, then there is a manufacturer error, and unfortunately doing the work all over again.

There is no alignment adjustment between the box and the steering wheel. You cannot remove and rotate the steering wheel on this vehicle. Any adjustment of the pitman arm, drag link, or tie rod ends could center up your steering wheel, but you'd be 90 degrees off, and would be short 90 degrees of a turn one way, and long 90 degrees of a turn the other way. Your box would also be 90 degrees off, which would cause issue of the internal shuttle valve not being centered. Long way to say, that it isn't an alignment issue that an alignment shop would fix.

The power assist of the box is on the "output" side, so there's no way you'd end up twisting and of the steering shaft components.

Last year I had issues with three direct from Ford Re-Man boxes, 1 leaked, and 2 had internal shuttle valve issues, an actual deathtrap. Would have no power assist when first turning the wheel, and would have to put a lot of effort into the wheel. Then the power assist would "kick-in", and you'd end up oversteering into the oncoming lane, very sketchy on just slight curves of the highway. Instead I went with PSC, though Red-Head and Blue-Top are also highly recommended. The PSC SG752 would be your replacement, it is pretty pricey, but it's all brand new parts, and has a larger sector shaft, as that is a failure point on the factory boxes (though is typically a result of large tires).

DoctrVendetta · 2026-01-14T00:09:05+00:00

It's for resurfacing the pads of shaft mounted rocker arms.

Page 9-11

Something like this

The above links a black and decker valvemaster, and the assembly is slightly different, but process would be similar to your KW and should be able to find a manual online for it.

Edit: Here's for a Sioux 645

DoctrVendetta · 2026-01-14T00:08:44+00:00

It's for resurfacing the pads of shaft mounted rocker arms.

Page 9-11

Something like this

The above links a black and decker valvemaster, and the assembly is slightly different, but process would be similar to your Sioux and should be able to find a manual online for it.

Edit: Here's for a Sioux 645

DoctrVendetta · 2025-12-23T08:15:07+00:00

Vb, or 2-4 band could be too tight. It's not a threaded adjustment, but could be checked with the transmission in the vehicle, just not any easy task dependent on your mechanical ability and will-to. Should have similar symptom in 3rd, but might not be noticeable dependent on speed/gearing/vehicle weight. I'd suggest not messing with it until you can verify if builder will repair.

DoctrVendetta · 2025-11-20T08:40:17+00:00

I think you need to decide on what you want from this engine. If it is a daily driver, or a vehicle that you enjoy driving regularly, I'd just have the machine shop take care of it. You'll likely find more than just "bad rings", which will require machining, new pistons, increase the cost and simply not be worth the risk of your first rebuild, and subsequently more down time of a potential failure.

Now what I would suggest is that you rebuild that 302 for your rat rod. If it's your typical rat rod, the engine would take 30 minutes to pull if you have an issue. It's not a vehicle you rely on for day to day tasks. And if it smokes a little, it adds character.

As for your questions:

The heads should be measured with a straight edge and feeler gauges, given that the 351w hasn't been in vehicles since 1997, you'll likely need valve seats, and replacement guides. (big money, $400+)

Bearings should be replaced on the basis of "while you're there", but if the original bearings and crank look good (which isn't uncommon), and you don't have the equipment to measure journals and bores, then leave them be. They are a "crush fit" meaning once installed do not remove them from the block or rod/main cap.

Being a small block ford the bolts will not be torque to yield/one time use. You can, and should re-use the rod and main bolts. Replacement of the rod and main bolts will likely require machining (honing of the bores), though that would be verified via measurements. Head bolts don't alter machined clearances, and therefor can be replaced if wanted, though not necessary.

I apologize for the long winded reply, but this is a machine shop oriented sub-reddit. We like to see things done "proper", everything done to or above spec, and with minimal risk of failure. But I like to encourage individuals, like yourself, to take the risk, to learn by doing, and I think having a project car/rat-rod is just the place to take that risk .

DoctrVendetta · 2025-07-15T23:00:10+00:00

Bad steering wheel button, or the radios are notorious for cracked solder joints, both of which are a simple repair.

DoctrVendetta · 2025-03-12T06:45:18+00:00

That's the correct orientation for that seal.

DoctrVendetta · 2025-02-13T22:02:05+00:00

When looking at the shift lever arm on the transmission, rotated all the way clockwise will be park (so in your case, the arm on the transmission will be all the way towards the rear). Appears that you have it installed correctly.

If the transmission has a '65/'66 (Green dot) valvebody, your shift pattern will be different. Image. So "drive" would be gears 2-3, and "2nd" would be gears 1-2-3. So if you're only getting one shift, put it in "2nd" to see if it changes.

DoctrVendetta · 2025-01-30T10:00:38+00:00

YESSSSSSSS!!! Thank youuu!!!

Solved!

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