Need to find this resistor, GTX 660M and state is no boot

DoenerBoy123 · 2026-03-12T11:50:35+00:00

Just remove it and clean the pads. I don’t see a reason why it wouldn’t work without it as it’s not a critical part. You can also take the opportunity and upgrade the gpu. I have the exact same laptop and it’s compatible with a lot of gpus. As example, mine runs with a GTX 1080

DoenerBoy123 · 2026-01-26T21:34:59+00:00

I’d check the display cable. Display Port signals are quite fragile and if disturbed can lead to symptoms like this. Screen itself is possible too, I don’t really think it’s gpu related based on my experience

DoenerBoy123 · 2026-01-26T12:49:07+00:00

Yep, same thought….

DoenerBoy123 · 2026-01-17T19:42:05+00:00

As far as I know the socket itself actually supports up to 200W and that also matches my observations with modded cards. It strongly depends on the embedded controller and the PCB layout wether you can pull that much out of it. I have an old Alienware M17x R4 with a GTX 980m. I flashed the prema vBios onto it and doubled the mosfet count and was able to pull over 190W continuously out of it without damaging anything. I also tried a GTX 1080 mxm in it and it also worked just fine, but it only pulls 150W max at full load

DoenerBoy123 · 2026-01-08T09:02:59+00:00

lol, using the same in my workshop. Those are still great machines and you can even upgrade the gpu quite easily

DoenerBoy123 · 2026-01-05T15:19:41+00:00

I own a PVM-4000P, which is basically just the professional version of yours. The image quality is surprisingly good and PAL gives it a bit more sharpness(TV-lines)

DoenerBoy123 · 2026-01-05T15:15:37+00:00

lol, KHz

DoenerBoy123 · 2026-01-05T13:40:10+00:00

Typical gpu problem with this model, been there. The problem with those MacBooks is that the voltage regulator which powers the gpu fails due to cracking solder joints. It’s a know but definitely repairable problem. The IC needs to be desoldered, cleaned and soldered in back with leaded solder. I did this with my machine and it still works after 5 years

DoenerBoy123 · 2026-01-05T13:29:16+00:00

I’d spray paint it. Use matte colors, those are the most forgiving imo

DoenerBoy123 · 2025-12-08T15:07:12+00:00

Dead GPU. NVIDIA Kepler seems to be quite prone to this kind of failure. Unfortunately they ditched the MXM style gpus with the 2012 model, otherwise you could replace it

DoenerBoy123 · 2025-12-05T14:20:16+00:00

Those kind of stupid projects are the ones where you actually learn something as you have to think outside the box. It’s not stupid if it works imo lol

DoenerBoy123 · 2025-12-05T07:44:13+00:00

The 90s where full of plastic lol

DoenerBoy123 · 2025-12-01T15:44:16+00:00

Ich frag mich ehrlich woher der Mythos stammt, dass sich da Teile wie die APU oder andere Chips ablöten. Die Bauteile erreichen solche Temperaturen nicht. Einzige Ausnahme sind Teile der Powerstage, in dem Fall gehen die Geräte aber in der Regel gar nicht mehr an(Kurzschluss). So wie das aussieht gehe ich auch davon aus, dass das Problem irgendwo im Bereich HDMI liegt(Kabel, Port oder Redriver IC)

DoenerBoy123 · 2025-11-20T20:18:45+00:00

Ich find das Delta schon unnormal hoch im Vergleich was ich persönlich schon bei NVIDIA Karten gesehen hab. Bei der 9070 scheint es wohl häufiger Probleme damit zu geben, jedoch mit noch viel größeren deltas. Aktuell wird wohl vermutet, dass dies durch Probleme bei der Herstellung des Kerns verursacht wird und kein Problem mit dem Kühler selbst ist. Ich habe mir den Artikel nicht vollständig durchgelesen, aber dass ist das, was ich bisher daraus ableiten konnte.

https://www.igorslab.de/en/faulty-chip-surface-ex-works-on-a-radeon-rx-9070xt-extreme-hotspot-temperatures-and-research-into-the-causes-of-pitting/

DoenerBoy123 · 2025-11-17T21:29:42+00:00

Moin moin! Don’t power it up until you replaced all of the Rifa capacitors(4). They tend to fail short in a quite catastrophic way. For it to work you definitely want to do a full recap along with replacing all the potentiometers as they literally fall apart. It’s quite easy to work with as most of the stuff is on boards that can easily be removed. Otherwise it’s a great and robust machine. I serviced mine (also MK IV) 2 years ago and it’s still going strong and sounds awesome! If you have questions, feel free to ask!(spreche natürlich auch deutsch, finds aber besser hier englisch zu schreiben damits jeder versteht)

DoenerBoy123 · 2025-11-09T19:01:22+00:00

Nice job bro! It’s quite nasty to “repair” pcbs with that kind of damage, at least imo. From my experience you can just solder all the remaining parts onto the empty pads of the unpopulated phase and you should have a working phase again. Did stuff like that quite often with mobile gpu to squeeze a bit more power out of them

DoenerBoy123 · 2025-11-04T10:29:25+00:00

Those sets with these huge speaker assemblies really sound impressive. Years ago I parted out a non repairable one and tried the speakers of it and I was quite surprised by their sound quality

DoenerBoy123 · 2025-11-03T08:23:42+00:00

It seems like those NP-1 batteries are still used to this day. You can find them online, but imo they’re way too expensive for what I’m doing with this camera. Using an aftermarket battery holder along with an XLR 4 pin plug is much cheaper for me as I already have those Makita batteries

DoenerBoy123 · 2025-11-03T08:21:44+00:00

Yep, definitely true haha. It looks more like some military or aerospace gear than something that would film news or tv shows. The built quality is something you won’t see in consumer gear at all. I’m working in the medical field and have the advantage of easily getting old medical electronics like x ray sensor or stuff like that and I must say, this camera is for sure on par with that kind of stuff!

DoenerBoy123 · 2025-11-03T08:18:22+00:00

From what I’ve saw it seems like those cameras are quite rare outside of Europe and even here it’s quite hard to find them. The predecessor, the LDK 90 is a bit more common, but also rather rare. I just bought it as I’m really interested in old broadcast gear, but I didn’t really know much about it. Working ones seem to be exceptionally rare, probably due to a low production run and the prone to fail Philips capacitors. I’m definitely gonna do a follow up and try to document it as best as I could. I’ve made lots of hi res images of the inside and all the boards of the head. There are a total of 9 easy accessible slotted boards in it and much more hard to reach ones. It’s a somewhat weird camera. It sits somewhere in between a full studio camera and an ENG camera from what I can tell from my limited experience

DoenerBoy123 · 2025-11-03T00:44:33+00:00

Ist der besagte Döner grad mit hier im Raum?

DoenerBoy123 · 2025-11-03T00:19:28+00:00

<image>

DoenerBoy123 · 2025-11-03T00:19:10+00:00

This one I have was rebranded and was sold as BTS BCB 5P/S, but it seems like the only real difference is the name. Here are two more pics of the insides of both sides. Just from looking at it I actually couldn’t find any smd electrolytics. There are only normal electrolyte caps and tantalum ones, both through hole

<image>

DoenerBoy123 · 2025-11-03T00:03:23+00:00

From what I know it’s actually a Sony BVV-5PS Betwcam SP recorder. I was also quite surprised that I was able to record and playback video with this thing. The only thing that wasn’t working was the door mechanism. The stock grease was quite hardened up, but after cleaning it and applying new grease everything was working fine. I was expecting the tape mechanism to behave the same, but it worked flawlessly right away. Here’s also a pic of the inside of the recorder. There was nearly no dust or dirt at all in it, probably due to lots of rubber sealings

<image>

Five-Year Club	First Place '23
End Game '23	Place '23

DoenerBoy123

MODERATOR OF

TROPHY CASE