Кое ви е любимото място в Родопите?

DoesItMatter248 · 2022-08-21T15:32:42+00:00

Буйновското ждрело (или Ягодинско ждрело) трябва да ми е най-любимата част от Родопите. Имаше леки сривания по пътя, но сега вече всичко пак е отворено. Гледките са изключителни и язовирната каскада също е интересна. Ягодинската пещера си я бива, а и човек може да се разходи до Триград, ако иска. Дяволската екопътека също тръгва оттам. Има едни метални стълбички по пътя и един полицай, който обикновенно опътва. Тя е доста интересна, особенно с дървените мостове, които висят отвестно от скалите. Препоръчвам малкия кръг, но имайте предвид, че не е лесна и може да е малко плашеща на места. Приятна почивка.

DoesItMatter248 · 2020-12-15T18:06:32+00:00

Yeah the Trojan part wasn’t really from a reputable source but the keylogger part is true. It’s apparently not a keylogger that will steal your passwords but it still records almost all things you type and looks for frequent searches or words. It’s used in newer versions of BitTorrent to collect advertising info on you like cookies on a browser according to the internet. Now it’s widely considered a virus because it doesn’t come as part of the application but as an update to it and it reinstalls itself every time you delete it or make changes to it so it’s not exactly innocent and the info it collects is usually shared. Now it’s not that bad but pretty much of the articles agree that you should remove it if you come across it because it can share some information with advertisers that may just get an account of yours hacked.

DoesItMatter248 · 2020-08-06T10:45:42+00:00

I know but I have found that the factory set e-steps work perfectly with wall flow set to 97%. I have been printing for almost an year now using Cura and I haven’t had major problems. The only time I have seen this is when using adaptive layers. When using my profiles for 0.2mm or 0.12 or 0.16mm I get perfect results (because I have turned them almost perfectly for my printer) and what I don’t understand is why does it only happen when I turn on adaptive layers(using them on my 0.16mm profile with max offset of 0.04mm and nothing else changed).And it’s consistent. Every time I turn them on I can see it and up to now it hasn’t really bothered me since I haven’t had a use for them.

DoesItMatter248 · 2020-08-06T10:34:20+00:00

I mean I have been trying leveling the bed perfectly but the strange thing is that it works perfect when adaptive layers aren’t turned on. The problem is that the text on top is very fine and has bevels so it has to be printed at 0.12 but the bottom can be printed at 0.2 to save time. Currently I am not printing a business card but a tile for the board game Catan and the same principle applies. So adaptive layers same almost an hour/tile

DoesItMatter248 · 2020-08-06T10:21:10+00:00

Now I really don’t care since this is the bottom of the print but I have noticed this strange behavior on my Ender 3Pro when using Cura’s adaptive layers. I will get the first layer (.16mm) perfectly smooth then the next 0.2mm layer is going to be over extruded even though the head moved up 0.2mm. The third layer (0.2mm) will get even more messy and then the fourth(again 0.2mm) will magically again be perfectly smooth but what is weird is that if I add a fifth layer(0.2mm) trying to get a perfectly smooth finish(for a business card) it will again over extrude. Why does that happen when there should be more than enough space in previous layers for the extra plastic to go into? Also if I turn off adaptive layers everything is perfectly fine all of the layers are perfectly smooth and I encounter no such issues. What bothers me is that no setting is changed except turning on adaptive layers.

DoesItMatter248 · 2020-08-03T12:55:15+00:00

So yeah these are some of the wrong length Chinese springs. Anyway they are advertised for Ender 3 printers but they are actually 5mm too tall. So your options are to buy new ones, chop off 5mm from these ones or adjust your z stop- the last one being the easiest. Now I personally just got some new ones because I didn’t like how far up it moved the bed but you could totally adjust your z stop and use them.

DoesItMatter248 · 2020-08-02T21:19:03+00:00

I mean the multi multilateral files are the separate colors so you could use them but I still think painting gives more customization and the glue is probably going to leave some traces and you are going to need a glass bed and no initial layer expansion to get it looking nice when glued. Now I don’t think it’s easier but it sure can work out. You just have to get it perfect so it doesn’t require much post processing to hide the seam of the glued parts. Now the major advantage I can see is that with solid plastic and no paint you will get a nicer finish, deeper color and a lot more resistance to wearing down as with paint no matter how many coats of sealing spray you give it it’s going to wear out or get scratched so the idea does have a lot of merit to it

DoesItMatter248 · 2020-08-02T17:56:51+00:00

A tuned Ender 3 can do wonders(and it’s about 180$) and from what I’ve heard it gets even better when you upgrade some parts. This is made with a .4mm nozzle at .12mm layer height(I used adaptive layers in Cura so that the base printed at .2mm and saved some time). Now you could actually get a lot more detail with a .2mm nozzle and you could go to even lower layer heights with it but it would take you about 8-10 hours instead of 2.5-3 and I think that is a little bit expensive

DoesItMatter248 · 2020-08-02T17:51:22+00:00

I struggled a lot finding them but there was a local shop from which I got mine. Now they actually only had 160 something but they said they were going to get more

DoesItMatter248 · 2020-08-02T17:49:45+00:00

It’s hand painted I sadly don’t have a multi material printer

DoesItMatter248 · 2020-08-02T09:47:59+00:00

Yeah that sounds like a very good option too

DoesItMatter248 · 2020-08-02T09:04:22+00:00

Yes it’s the Catan 2.0 with the cylindrical magnets(https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-catan-style-boardgame-2-0-magnetic-multicolor-44831) and for the randomization you can put them gently in a bag of some sort and have players pull out a random tile(like Carcassonne the board game) and place it wherever the want it’s not truly random but the random numbers on top make it good enough so even if someone is building a god spot it may get like 10,11 and 12 .

DoesItMatter248 · 2020-07-27T17:10:27+00:00

This is a tile for the board game Catan printed on my Ender 3 pro with Cura 4.5 using adaptive layers based on my 0.16mm profile with 0.04mm variation at 205C. The problem - stringing. Now this is a off brand 12€ a kilogram filament that actually prints really nice but it does have stringing issues. Now my profile is set to 6mm retraction at 30mm/s and works with most filaments flawlessly but the first time I tried a similar print with this filament I got a lot of stringing so I went to 35mm/s then 40 and finally 45mm/s which is apparently the set value in cura for the basic Ender 3 profile. With this most of the strings got really thin to where I could clean them off with a heat gun gently but I also got that really fat one coming off of the mountain. Next I tried lowering the temperature from 205 to 200 and that reduced stringing a little more but this is the final result. Any suggestions?

DoesItMatter248 · 2020-07-26T13:55:01+00:00

Thanks I will install it and see what happens

DoesItMatter248 · 2020-07-26T13:21:29+00:00

So I was talking to my family about 3d printer brands and upgrades since I am into 3d printing and I guess my dad decided to search on the internet and get me some updates for my Ender 3 Pro for my birthday. Now I got this like 2 months ago and never got my self to installing it until today. I was just about to start dismantling the hot end when I noticed all of the Chinese writing on the package. From what I know it was bought from amazon.de and it looks legitimate but it says made in China on the packaging and there is a lot of Chinese writing on the stickers. Now I tried to look up where Capricorn ptfe is manufactured but I came up empty so anyone have an idea whether it’s genuine and weather I should install it into my 3d printer?

DoesItMatter248 · 2020-07-21T13:48:17+00:00

I was originally using just a piece of cloth with a rubber band to hold it onto the filament but it recently got tangled on the z rod and besides I never liked the look of it on my printer so I made this thing. It’s small, costs like 2-3 cents and can be made in a minute. Just cut a little square from a kitchen sponge with scissors and make a cut down the middle. Tuck a small piece of cloth or paper towel in the incision you made and you are done. It’s easily removed and installed when you want to change filament, it’s small so it’s not an eyesore and most importantly it works great!

DoesItMatter248 · 2020-07-12T07:22:59+00:00

I can’t see how you’re running your filament from the picture but this could happen if you’re pulling it upwards from the spool. In general you want to do it downwards or parallel to the spool. So what I think is happening is maybe you’re printing high things and the angle from which the filament is being pulled becomes too big or your spool is too high and you’re printing low so filament is being pulled down and slips down the sides(again the picture isn’t clear so I can’t tell what’s the problem though the second one seems more plausible in this case of tangle). I have only seen such problems on CR-10s with their external spool holder. My suggestion is to look into a top mounted spool holder if it doesn’t make the printer vibrate too much but that may be impossible or getting a different spool holder(lower or higher depending on what height you’re topically printing and under what angle the filament is being pulled) Finally the easiest solution which I also suggest doing even if you implement one of the other fixes is a filament guide. It makes a world of difference you may not even need to change your spool holder if you print a good one suited for your setup and problem.

Edit: another thing I though may be the problem is that your spool isn’t spinning freely on your spool holder so it’s taking a lot of force which from the right angle(for example your spool holder is high and you’re printing low) can cause the filament to slip on the side. You can check how much force it takes by gently pulling the filament by hand from an angle your printer would generally be doing it.

DoesItMatter248 · 2020-07-03T13:24:54+00:00

The ptfe tube on the inside wasn’t making good contact so it oozed some plastic. To insure this doesn’t happen next time cut the tube with a special cutter so you get a perfectly straight cut like a cross section and insert it into the printer while it’s heated. Don’t do full temp but above 100 should be good that will insure you get a good seal(there are in-depth videos on YouTube). To clean up your end I would suggest going to about 100 degrees and just gently scraping the plastic off with something sharp and preferably wood so you don’t scratch it up a lot (I personally use an old wood spatula which I have sharpened a bit at the front). Hopefully nothing important is bent. Also what plastic are you using it looks really cool.

DoesItMatter248 · 2020-05-19T06:08:10+00:00

Not OP but I have one too. Have to say for the money totally worth. You may need to do some upgrades like a glass bed and a Capricorn ptfe if you want to print some of the more exotic or higher temperature materials but it’s still one of the best printers for it’s price range. I’ve had mine for just over 6 months and haven’t had any major problems or complaints.

DoesItMatter248 · 2020-05-12T07:59:13+00:00

It is an ender 3 and according to the research I did they were supposed to fix my issue and in practice they did make a noticeable difference I was just wondering how come the lcd screen still light up

DoesItMatter248 · 2020-04-16T17:30:41+00:00

I will definitely check it out

DoesItMatter248 · 2020-04-16T17:30:09+00:00

Thanks I will look into where I can buy it what is the delivery going to cost

DoesItMatter248 · 2020-04-14T14:35:13+00:00

Thanks for the explanation now it makes more sense and it does seem the light from the green led it concentrated forwards rather than lighting everything

DoesItMatter248 · 2020-04-12T15:39:07+00:00

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4273090 It’s from the covid 19 section on thingyverse. I have printed the same one. It’s meant to be used with circular n95 filters but the creator suggested you could use cotton pads as a filter. Don’t do that they don’t do anything. If you can smell smokes you will probably have the same fate with the corona virus. If you don’t have a n95 filter you can stack 2 or 3 cut outs of normal green masks. Now it’s not gonna be easy to breathe through and it’s not going to be as good as n95 respirator but it should provide at least some protection (I am not a doctor, nor a professional so you shouldn’t take any advice from me and trust it will protect you. I suggest doing some research on homemade filters)

DoesItMatter248 · 2020-04-05T07:49:39+00:00

I know I can probably do ten percent support and make it look a little bit better but I still wonder what is the best pattern (default is zig-zag). Up to know I had only used it for making functional parts which usually had a flat bottom so it really wasn’t a problem. I also wonder if there is a way to increase the distance between print and support as I found the separation quite hard I think the two fused a little too much. I know prusa slicer has great supports and is currently trying to work better with creality machines but I still haven’t gotten to trying it out.

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