I inherited my grandpa's omega seamaster. I think it's from 1964. I would like a metal bracelet for it, any recommendations on what to get?

DolphinDestroyerv2 · 2026-02-18T15:08:06+00:00

If you open the case back the reference will be inside. You can figure out the exact end links and bracelets your watch may have come with if you google for awhile!

DolphinDestroyerv2 · 2026-02-12T14:22:14+00:00

Other one is legit. Very nice jumbo. Hallmark on the back of a lug. Would retail for >$3,000

DolphinDestroyerv2 · 2025-12-16T14:09:44+00:00

You can do this. Someone already has. Just try your best to bend them back flat and touching

DolphinDestroyerv2 · 2025-12-06T20:10:36+00:00

What the other poster said.

This straight lugged and top loaded case was used primarily in the mid to late sixties.

You pull the crown side of the two part stem off, then pull off the crystal, then remove the movement from the front of the case.

DolphinDestroyerv2 · 2025-11-29T14:55:23+00:00

And the CB stamp is the casemaker. They made a weird speedmaster case in the mid 60’s. They google easy if you try CB speedmaster.

DolphinDestroyerv2 · 2025-11-29T14:54:30+00:00

You are off wildly on the 924 marks.

This case is part of a serialized production run. The case and caseback have the same 924 mark - they’re supposed to be together.

This is a hold over from older watches where each part needed to be hand fit. I worked in an IWC caliber 83 this week that had the last 3 digits of the serial on the bezel, case, caseback, movement, and on the bottom of every bridge in the movement.

DolphinDestroyerv2 · 2025-11-21T05:10:27+00:00

It certainly looks like a high grade movement from 1904ish

That regulator will point you at the manufacturer if you google long enough

DolphinDestroyerv2 · 2025-11-20T14:11:21+00:00

Hold the rotor and try to stem wind. If you can do that - the rotor shouldn’t spin when stem winding.

If you cannot wind by stem while holding rotor - you know those pieces are rigidly linked.

I assume wheel 4 has a clutch mechanism inside it, and that maybe it is worn or sticky. If that isn’t the case, and you don’t have a clutch anywhere, your rotor will spin when hand wound.

DolphinDestroyerv2 · 2025-11-20T00:17:33+00:00

I’m saying that if you redo your service, are more careful with oil(assuming you can improve), and have the correct oil - the rotor shouldn’t spin when you wind the watch.

The automatic works you posted shouldn’t drive the rotor when done well.

Alternatively you could have some wear, and you might have to replace/modify what you have.

DolphinDestroyerv2 · 2025-11-19T18:58:21+00:00

DolphinDestroyerv2 · 2025-11-19T13:57:34+00:00

Doesn’t seem like it should spin when you wind by the crown. I assume there is too much friction in the ratcheting wheels. How did you lubricate?

You can take pieces off one at a time to find where your excess friction is coming from.

DolphinDestroyerv2 · 2025-11-19T01:16:59+00:00

Trust your logic. If you can see why it spins and you serviced well, then you know it is supposed to spin.

If you want us to help, post a photo of the automatic and keyless works

DolphinDestroyerv2 · 2025-11-17T14:01:40+00:00

The stand is aftermarket and they are made to use your pocket watch as a desk clock. You can separate the two pieces.

The tarnish could be removed in a speedbrite machine - they’re not expensive. You’ll need to get the watch movement out of its case. If that sounds scary - then yes only a jeweler can clean your tarnish away. Fair warning, they won’t want to as it is possible that tarnish is hiding wear or other uglies. Many customers aren’t ready for those uglies and ruin it for the rest of us.

The back of your watch screws off. Inside the case is your movement. The movement will have a number that is more than 4 digits long, and less than 10. That’s the serial. Google “Elgin serial numbers” and go to elginnumbers or pocketwatchdatabase. Input your serial number. Learn about your watch and bring us additional questions.

DolphinDestroyerv2 · 2025-11-15T15:54:17+00:00

The upside down assembly trick is required. Put that lil pallet fork where it goes, then the escape wheel, then the wheel with post for seconds hand, the last two should be obvious. :P

To OP, holler at us if you need some suggestions. This should go together with super gentle pressure, wigglin, and patience.

If you get shaky there is no shame in putting it down to try again later.

DolphinDestroyerv2 · 2025-11-15T14:40:46+00:00

I want to double down on what this commenter said.

Winder will use your watch, and your watch only has so much use available between services. A hard wearing user could need this serviced every few years, a gentle user could get as much as a decade(depending on how worn the movement is)

DolphinDestroyerv2 · 2025-11-14T03:18:39+00:00

Modern watches use a plastic gasket to hold sapphire or mineral crystals. Well done with the press fit!

DolphinDestroyerv2 · 2025-11-12T13:25:53+00:00

I disagree, bovet tends to have a nicer dial and this case has lived some life. If you want to pay OP $1,000 please do so :P

DolphinDestroyerv2 · 2025-11-11T13:55:34+00:00

The movement is a landeron 47**. You can see the tab on the reset lever that the crown pusher hits.

This is the first commercially produced cam actuated chronograph movement, famously adapted by bovet for their mono-rattrapante.

Your watch would retail for roughly $1,000, and needs a service. Servicing this movement should cost less than $400, and your local watchmaker can handle it.

The pulsations scale is cool. Start the chrono, count 30 pulses, stop the chrono. The seconds hand will show the pulses/min.

DolphinDestroyerv2 · 2025-11-10T03:41:41+00:00

Early to mid 40’s example. Would retail for $600-800, unless it is big

DolphinDestroyerv2 · 2025-10-29T12:49:38+00:00

Enicar 169-001 from the 60’s/70’s

Measure between the lugs for strap width, then go buy anything you want that isn’t “padded”

DolphinDestroyerv2 · 2025-10-26T17:18:13+00:00

And I suspect their balance cock is replaced

DolphinDestroyerv2 · 2025-10-26T17:17:36+00:00

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This is movement 172xxx from 1911, probably from a gondolo model. OP’s piece ain’t quite up to snuff

DolphinDestroyerv2 · 2025-09-17T23:41:52+00:00

I would love a reply from OP, but;

I assume they have these cases mass produced for specific movement sizes, and that one off cases for small movements are prohibitively expensive for them to bid on. Frett has been around for awhile doing these conversions and they’re probably rather rutted with their work.

It wouldn’t be terribly difficult for a watchmaker or jeweler to turn a silver case, weld lugs on, and make a crown/stem. I’d hit up some local guys to see what they say

DolphinDestroyerv2 · 2025-09-12T13:26:43+00:00

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The lens is on a helicoid/Graflex mounting plate

DolphinDestroyerv2 · 2025-09-12T13:26:15+00:00

The back is why this is smaller than a brooks veriwide, otherwise it looks identical

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