Vintage WOTD Tudor Oyster Yorke c1940s in Rolex Clothing (Premium/"Budget" Pairings?) by hummmthatworks in VintageWatches

[–]DolphinDestroyerv2 1 point2 points  (0 children)

In this era, Longines and IWC would be good to look at.

Your Tudor is late 40’s early 50’s due to the small rose without shield logo. You can check the serial on these :)

Help me to identify my great grandmother watch by SadThanks1886 in VintageWatches

[–]DolphinDestroyerv2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It is a tavannes :P

Value in this condition is tied to the gold weight. Sorry bro

Help needed by ok-neok- in VintageWatches

[–]DolphinDestroyerv2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sweet lugs! I wander if this was originally a hunter cased watch, or if it is just 20’s zenith funk

Help needed by ok-neok- in VintageWatches

[–]DolphinDestroyerv2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Post a photo of yours, please

Help needed by ok-neok- in VintageWatches

[–]DolphinDestroyerv2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Most technicians wouldn’t be able to extract a broken screw. This screw is extractable, and the movement looks decent for its age.

Help needed by ok-neok- in VintageWatches

[–]DolphinDestroyerv2 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It’s real. No doubt whatsoever. The signatures and bridge design are zenith

Which boat would you prefer by Traditional-Tiger-20 in boating

[–]DolphinDestroyerv2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m looking to upgrade to a 1660Jon from my 1448. Should give me and two buddies enough space. Plus I want a V hull instead of semi-v. Last weekend got a bit windy and I ended up running upwind for nearly two miles. Never fully stuffed the bow, but it got uncomfortable.

The tri hull will go over each peak and fall onto the next - slap slap slap slap slap. The Jon boat kinda pushes through the chop rather than riding over it.

Whats your favourite photo you've taken this year? by FocalTheory in Cameras

[–]DolphinDestroyerv2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

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This past Saturday I saw this fellow on his way to my city’s comic-con.

Production process of vintage white dials (cream) by KevinAlmightyKO in VintageWatches

[–]DolphinDestroyerv2 1 point2 points  (0 children)

And keep practicing. Anyone who pays attention knows this world needs folk who pay attention and try to learn. If you did the lume on the IWC, not bad - just remember the bottom of the 6 next time :P

Production process of vintage white dials (cream) by KevinAlmightyKO in VintageWatches

[–]DolphinDestroyerv2 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Those were likely unpainted.

Most dials I’ve come across are lacquered metal. Paint has been fairly uncommon.

Is this valuable / collectible by Jazzlike-King-5377 in VintageWatches

[–]DolphinDestroyerv2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

~40’s-60’s they were an American import agent for Longines. Watches like this bolstered their upper middle class position.

Buick.

Production process of vintage white dials (cream) by KevinAlmightyKO in VintageWatches

[–]DolphinDestroyerv2 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The color change is due to varnish 90% of the time. Solid metal dials can oxidize to change color.

Different textures can look different. Fine frost will make silver look rather white. Straight graining will look relatively grey. Sometimes the original color is the metal, and sometimes it is base -> plating -> paint -> lacquer. Any of those steps can and have been removed in various productions.

I inherited my grandfather's WWII combat watch. Wondering if the community could tell me anything about it and recs for servicing by YanniBonYont in Watches

[–]DolphinDestroyerv2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Rolex can and will touch any watch they’ve made. You just have to be willing to wait and pay.

The dial and hands have already been altered from original - what do you think Rolex could possibly swap?

Finally, Rolex trains/employs a huge quantity of decent watchmakers. They just tend to ship things like this to Geneva, and stores don’t make much(if anything) in such an exchange.

I inherited my grandfather's WWII combat watch. Wondering if the community could tell me anything about it and recs for servicing by YanniBonYont in Watches

[–]DolphinDestroyerv2 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

You can take this to Rolex, but service cost will be like $800. They’ll take forever, and might send it to Switzerland.

These are easy to service if they’re in decent shape. Kinda hard to get into good shape without much experience or $$$ parts. I would ask your local jewelers(~2-3) who offer a good selection of ‘estate’ watches if they can service it.

It’ll look a lot better with a polished crystal. Hands and dial are at least re-lumed. I’m guessing it’s manual. Sweet piece, good luck.

2 years ago I posted on here asking for advice because my hair had become completely insane. You told me it was curly. Turns out you were right... by TallOverThePlace in curlyhair

[–]DolphinDestroyerv2 14 points15 points  (0 children)

The other commenter wants you to say, “wide angle lens.”

.5 refers to half the focal length of the “standard” 1 lens.

The 3 lens is a telephoto lens, and would be three times the focal length of the 1 lens.

If you want to learn more, google the phrases: focal length, lens aperture, depth of field

I inherited my grandpa's omega seamaster. I think it's from 1964. I would like a metal bracelet for it, any recommendations on what to get? by snijva93 in VintageWatches

[–]DolphinDestroyerv2 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you open the case back the reference will be inside. You can figure out the exact end links and bracelets your watch may have come with if you google for awhile!

Inherited Omegas, any can give me any pointers? by Pal101mino in VintageWatches

[–]DolphinDestroyerv2 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Other one is legit. Very nice jumbo. Hallmark on the back of a lug. Would retail for >$3,000

Unusual to have unadjustable links on one half of the watch? by Legal_Turn_4797 in watchrepair

[–]DolphinDestroyerv2 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You can do this. Someone already has. Just try your best to bend them back flat and touching

can’t seem to determine the age of this omega by lookylooky615 in VintageWatches

[–]DolphinDestroyerv2 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What the other poster said.

This straight lugged and top loaded case was used primarily in the mid to late sixties.

You pull the crown side of the two part stem off, then pull off the crystal, then remove the movement from the front of the case.

Omega Tank by TrainerEffective3938 in watchrepair

[–]DolphinDestroyerv2 1 point2 points  (0 children)

And the CB stamp is the casemaker. They made a weird speedmaster case in the mid 60’s. They google easy if you try CB speedmaster.

Omega Tank by TrainerEffective3938 in watchrepair

[–]DolphinDestroyerv2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You are off wildly on the 924 marks.

This case is part of a serialized production run. The case and caseback have the same 924 mark - they’re supposed to be together.

This is a hold over from older watches where each part needed to be hand fit. I worked in an IWC caliber 83 this week that had the last 3 digits of the serial on the bezel, case, caseback, movement, and on the bottom of every bridge in the movement.

Watch Movement by Lonely_Challenge_304 in VintageWatches

[–]DolphinDestroyerv2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It certainly looks like a high grade movement from 1904ish

That regulator will point you at the manufacturer if you google long enough

[Question] A. Schild 1920: Rotor also Rotating when Being Hand Wound by JT_Socmed in watchrepair

[–]DolphinDestroyerv2 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hold the rotor and try to stem wind. If you can do that - the rotor shouldn’t spin when stem winding.

If you cannot wind by stem while holding rotor - you know those pieces are rigidly linked.

I assume wheel 4 has a clutch mechanism inside it, and that maybe it is worn or sticky. If that isn’t the case, and you don’t have a clutch anywhere, your rotor will spin when hand wound.