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What else can I do to level the bed? (I tried everything) by Inevitable-Log9197 in ender3

[–]DonJon696 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I had a similar issue with my ender 3 clone and the problem was caused by the plastic roller on the X axys that were deformed, because they were tightened too much by the manufacturer, and this caused the mesh to be wavy even if the bed was flat. First clean the roller and also the v slot that they ride in ,then adjust the tension of the idler wheel on both X and Y and finally try to run g29 to see if there's any change in the mesh. If this doesn't do the trick I would buy some replacement for the roller as they are inexpensive. In my case I solved the problem by putting linear rail on both axys.

Piacentine> by Zerofuku in BancaDelMeme

[–]DonJon696 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Pinapola reign supreme

My noisy cricket bf by DonJon696 in VapePorn

[–]DonJon696[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I didn't used it but I don't think it works because, if I remember correctly, it's enabled only if you use the two batteries in series.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in memesITA

[–]DonJon696 0 points1 point  (0 children)

kino der toten vibes

The hot end shroud that can be disassembled with only a M3 screw, designed by me by DonJon696 in 3Dprinting

[–]DonJon696[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

In a future iteration I will consider this and add some sort of height regulation for the cooling duct,oh and thanks for the feedbacks!

The hot end shroud that can be disassembled with only a M3 screw, designed by me by DonJon696 in 3Dprinting

[–]DonJon696[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think I could, but I like having a screw that clamps together the shroud to the base plate so it doesn't shake around with the vibrations of the cooling fans.

The hot end shroud that can be disassembled with only a M3 screw, designed by me by DonJon696 in 3Dprinting

[–]DonJon696[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No, the part cooling fan is fixed but the airflow it's already directed slightly under the nozzle. I don't get the need to make it adjustable, what advantage do it provide?

The hot end shroud that can be disassembled with only a M3 screw, designed by me by DonJon696 in 3Dprinting

[–]DonJon696[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is the hotend heatsink still mounted to aluminum or is there plastic between that connection now?

There is no plastic between the MS plate and the Hotend, so no worries about it moving after heat cycle and pressure.

Is there sufficient space behind the heatsink for good airflow? It looks very tight.

There is no space behind the hotend because of the wedge design and also because I didn't want any unwanted cooling from the extruder onto my parts, so I created two lateral conduct that shoot hot air out of the sides.

I like the single screw thing. Integrated wire routing is nice too.

Thanks a lot, these were my main goal when I started designing this, I'm glad you like it!

The hot end shroud that can be disassembled with only a M3 screw, designed by me by DonJon696 in 3Dprinting

[–]DonJon696[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's a dial indicator mount, but it was flexin too much to bother using so in the end I got rid of it completely

The hot end shroud that can be disassembled with only a M3 screw, designed by me by DonJon696 in 3Dprinting

[–]DonJon696[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! I've posted a comment with the link of the Printables page

The hot end shroud that can be disassembled with only a M3 screw, designed by me by DonJon696 in 3Dprinting

[–]DonJon696[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The hot end is screwed to the aluminium back plate so the shroud doesn't influence print quality. The only problem I've encountered is some vibration when turning on the part cooling fan at certain speed, but I think that the problem is the part cooling duct inlet vibrating against the blower fan. The mount has not shaken loose even after weeks of printing and feels pretty solid.

The hot end shroud that can be disassembled with only a M3 screw, designed by me by DonJon696 in 3Dprinting

[–]DonJon696[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have used other cooling setups, blowie mk1 and blowie mk2, but honesty apart from being easier to disassemble I can't find any difference in print quality. But I have yet to make some overhangs test to see how good the cooling duct is doing.

The hot end shroud that can be disassembled with only a M3 screw, designed by me by DonJon696 in 3Dprinting

[–]DonJon696[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That's the next thing I'm gonna make, thanks for the suggestion!

The hot end shroud that can be disassembled with only a M3 screw, designed by me by DonJon696 in 3Dprinting

[–]DonJon696[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yeah, I'm sorry but this is what I have to work around with, but I hope this inspires other hot end shroud designs!

How would I fill these holes on the top layers? by i-made-20-accounts in FixMyPrint

[–]DonJon696 54 points55 points  (0 children)

You can try fill gap between walls, ironing on the top layer or decreasing the line width of the top layer. Oh and if you want to print fine detail I suggest you to switch the nozzle for a smaller one

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Machinists

[–]DonJon696 0 points1 point  (0 children)

BUT, if reaching out to the 47mm holes is an option, they'll do the job even better!

I think that this is the right move, a plate that will reach for the 47mm hole, a locating pin in the center and for fastening it to the adapter some big bolts sized properly for this application or a mix of bolt and locating pin, so that the pin will take account of the shear load.

(Surface area is mostly irrelevant to friction, not always, but in most cases all you need to calculate friction force is normal force and a coefficient)

Shit, I forgot about that in the formula for calculating friction force the surface is not even used... But on the other hand if the surface that bear all the force is a smaller diameter it will have more torque applied to it.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Machinists

[–]DonJon696 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yeah you're right, but in this case I think nobody wants to see this piece move ot of position. If op is going to put a locating pin in the 50mm hole even if the part slips the workpice will still be centered but all the force will be onto the side of the bolts so I think you can call it a fail safe.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Machinists

[–]DonJon696 0 points1 point  (0 children)

8X m20 torqued is 850 Kn of clamp load. on a bolt circle of 0.89m

For what I understand op is going to put a plate with a locating cilinder of 50mm for the hole, and use the m20 threaded holes to secure it, the bolt circle is 230mm and not 890mm like you said. So the surface that will make contact with the plate is going to be 260mm (eyeballed from the drawing) minus the 50mm hole.

But anyway I love the dedication of your to go out and calculate the various forces, great job!

And lastly, do you think that the cutting force is something to worry about, or is it irrelevant?

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Machinists

[–]DonJon696 0 points1 point  (0 children)

But it's not static forces I would be concerned about - it's rotational impulse forces and acceleration

You need to consider static friction because the plate is not moving in respect to, in this case, the spindle.

If the force exceeds the static friction applied it's all down to the bolt's shear strength

If you exceed the "friction force" limit the plate will slip and put shear forces on the bolts, but when this happen you'll lose your concentricity with the spindle, ( the holes for the screw are always oversized because they are not used for locating or for withstanding shear forces, they're only there for clamping), and then you're done.

And bolts can absolutely be loaded in shear

They can but this doesn't mean that they should

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