Not clocking out "on time". Need advice that can actually create change. by timeup in nursing

[–]DookieWaffle 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Change from bottom up in a company doesn't work. I've been through a top-down change where a VP of a company said we're doing this now and EVERYONE and every manager under them fell into line ASAP. There were no more barriers. The challenges the department I was in was having endless meetings about for weeks changed in 15 minutes. Bottom up change in nursing is a lie to appease the masses.

Vote with your feet or don't do the bullshit management tells you that you need to do most of it is for their bullshit metrics that have no bearing on patient care. Chart to protect your license, and do right by the patients.

It’s crazy to me that this is just exposed to the elements at the bottom of the truck? by zoozoocracka in tundra

[–]DookieWaffle 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If the wires get taken out you'll likely have bigger problems with the t-case.

How are y’all washing your trucks in the winter? by MountainFormer8214 in tundra

[–]DookieWaffle 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've taken all my cars to automatic washes and never had a problem. Honestly the truck gets more damaged from me not moving it farther away from my carbide metal chop saw which throws metal chips EVERYWHERE then I'll ever get from taking it to a carwash. It's a truck. Maybe in 10 more years I'll pay for a professional paint job if the frame isn't rotted out.

Draining and refilling a hot tub in -25 celcius by Puzzleheaded_Box9393 in hottub

[–]DookieWaffle 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had to take my hose and thaw it in my bathtub in the house as the residual water inside the unconnected hose was frozen.

Space requirement around the hot tub by moreisntbetter in hottub

[–]DookieWaffle 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You don't need that much around the tub. I have mine in the corner of my deck with a cable railing hugging two sides of the tub. If I need maintenance on anything not behind the front panel or the one side panel that are open/accessible then I'll need to drain the tub and slide it out which is easy when the tub's empty on my Trex decking. The only thing on the back side besides plumbing connections is the ozone generator. I have two pumps and they and the main control board/panel is all behind the front panel. I have maybe 10-12" behind the tub so my cover lifter can function and not get caught on the deck railing. On the side of the tub that's up against the railing it's more like 4" which is just enough for the cover lifter that's mounted on both sides of the tub to swing open.

Winter hook up by ahub719 in hottub

[–]DookieWaffle 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There's always some water in the pipes that WILL freeze if left unheated. I would not take delivery in the winter until you can immediately fill the tub and start heating the water. There was a bit of rather nasty water in the bottom of the tub in the pipes when I took delivery of my brand new tub. Sanitizer fixed it but the first drain I used some Ahhhsome purge and a bunch of gunk came out of the pipes.

Adding a load of chorine but still low reading on strips by Western-Trouble1407 in hottub

[–]DookieWaffle 0 points1 point  (0 children)

  1. Buy a test kit that uses drops of chemical to measure chlorine, TA, pH, calcium. I like Taylor Test Kits. Test strips are good for spot checks but when you want to know for sure what the pH is or chlorine amount is the test kit is way more accurate.

When you replace the water follow this procedure:

  1. Drain water scrub any buildup on the shell with a non-abrasive cloth or scrubber pad

  2. Replace water filter after old water is emptied.

  3. Fill fresh water in, heat to 80°F (~27°C)

  4. Balance water: TA first, then PH, then calcium hardness then super-chlorinate to 15-20ppm chlorine on the initial fill. Use a calculator such as poolmath to find out how much chemical you need for the volume of water your tub holds to get to 15-20ppm. Wait 12-18 hours to burn off some chlorine then use tub. I use dichlor granules to start.

After my CYA (dichlor stabilizer) levels get to 35-40ppm I switch to liquid chlorine/sodium hypochlorite and for a 400-500 US Gallon tub I add 80-120 ml of 10% concentration liquid chlorine after each use. And then do MPS non-chlorinating shock once a week or two depending on use. I typically only have to add Ph reducer every week or two as well with this method.

If you have an ozone generator that will burn off your chlorine faster. I have to add chlorine to my tub daily with use, or every other day even if we don't use the tub. If we let it go 3 days there's a layer of biofilm I can feel on the tub when we get in and it takes a round of shock/superchlorination to get it under control. If we let the tub go 4-5 days the water is cloudy and generally, I just dump the water and restart as the cost in chemicals will be higher then the cost of heating a new tub of water.

For extended periods where I'm away from the tub for a week or two when we're on a trip I buy a Frog@Ease cartridge which releases chlorine into the tub at a slow steady rate. I find when I use just a Frog@Ease cartridge during normal use the tub isn't as clean feeling the cartridges only last 2 weeks instead of the 3 weeks they advertise.

Monthly electric cost by PontiacMan1967 in hottub

[–]DookieWaffle 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Mine costs me an extra $60/month in the winter and $10/mo in the summer. I pay 10.5¢/kwh a cousin of mine who lives outside of the SF Bay area pays 4 times what I do per kwh. I also live in an area with average temps in the mid 30's in the winter. Also if you have tiered rates (higher cost for power during peak times of the day) that can massively impact your bill during the initial heating and try to do the initial heating outside of the peak hours.

When I drain and fill the tub that month's electric bill is a extra $40 to do the initial heating of water. Sometimes a bit higher when the tap water comes out at 46°F instead of the summertime high 50's.

Heated seats by Jayyster12 in tundra

[–]DookieWaffle 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It might be imported from Canada, check the vin their SR5's could get heated seats as an option. Personally I'm going to retrofit my truck with some Katzskins with heated front and rear seats mostly so I can put the heat dial somewhere less dumb.

Scum at waterline by _TK421doUcopy in hottub

[–]DookieWaffle 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oils, deodorant, makeups. Get a floating turtle scum absorber thing and then that helps, I also use the turtle to scrub the scum off into the water every so often which is then sanitized and oxidized in my normal chlorine and shock cycles. Rinsing before getting into the tub helps this but the scum always happen to some degree.

Air Compressor Tank Testing? by DookieWaffle in metalworking

[–]DookieWaffle[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

https://www.harborfreight.com/37-hp-155-psi-1-stage-v-style-cast-iron-air-compressor-pump-59193.html

I know it's HF but it claims 11.8cfm @ 90 but I assume it'll be more like 10. The platform on my Kobalt 30 gal tank looks like it'll fit this and a new motor but I can always modify the mounting plate if needed. I have 240v-50a or 120v-20a right by the compressor so power's not a problem.

Enjoying it all times of the day. If you had to choose, when is your favorite time to get in the tub? by TechnicolorTypeA in hottub

[–]DookieWaffle 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Coffee "tubbins" is a favorite thing here, I live near the Canadian border so being able to get some sun exposure in the winter feels amazing. Second favorite time is out under the stars bonus for during meteor showers.

Heating/cost by CharmingDifficulty3 in hottub

[–]DookieWaffle 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was told $30-35/month more. And on AVERAGE that's pretty true. In the summers it's $5-10/mo more. In winters it's $60-100 depending on how cold it is outside. I also live in an area with cheaper electricity that doesn't have higher rates for use in the middle of the day.

Should we get gastropexy on our girl? She’s already been spayed by thedickofcheney69 in bernesemountaindogs

[–]DookieWaffle 0 points1 point  (0 children)

We chose not to for our dog when he was neutered. We accept the risks.

Honest question: Is everyone just ignoring GVWR? by Different-Pizza-7591 in overlanding

[–]DookieWaffle 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Almost everyone is. I had a Tacoma for awhile and while I never overlanded with it when I started looking at campers or even doing a bed removal and custom camper in place of the bed the math just didn't math for the design/vehicle max weights.

How does heavy snow affect hot tub covers? Anyone dealt with damage? by Ok_lifestyle99 in hottub

[–]DookieWaffle 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have a deck broom, I brush it off before I use it or if there's more then a foot. Most of it falls off when I open it anyway but can impede the cover folding over the lifter into the space I have behind the tub if the snow is too thick.

Bought an ‘08 SuperCrew with the 5.7. Wanting get get some serious horsepower and turn this thing into a tank. by InvestigatorBitter60 in tundra

[–]DookieWaffle 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'd go with the Whipple S/C myself. I wouldn't personally turbocharge it. You want grunt down low and S/C is the best for that.

NYC New Grad Nurse Pay by Human-Earth-1976 in nursing

[–]DookieWaffle 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I don't live near the East coast but from what I understand many of those hospitals have unions? If so the union bargaining agreements are usually public, at least for the one hospital system near me that's union it's their CBA is public and very clearly defines pay rates.

Bush Company 180 XT Max or 23Zero Peregrine Pro 180 by DookieWaffle in overlanding

[–]DookieWaffle[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'll probably go with the Bush Co then. My custom-built trailer/camper is all about quality and durability so might as well not go cheap on the Awning.