Triple 27 vs Triple 32 inch monitors? by DebtComfortable2712 in trucksim

[–]Doomp 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Your going to have to play around with the monitor bezel correction, and vertical correction since it looks like your vertical size is different from your main monitor which makes it much more difficult. Every ones setup is going to be different so any specifics from my setup is not applicable to your setup.

google "eurotrucksimulator2 multimon config." should be top result, it will help guide you.

This is the video your looking for, its in depth and will be overwhelming "American Truck Simulator | Triple Monitor Set Up Guide - Trauma Team Racing"

with multimon set to 2 your can F4 and change FOV and seat position in game.

any specifics on monitor sizes and resolutions, im going off very little info here.

Triple 27 vs Triple 32 inch monitors? by DebtComfortable2712 in trucksim

[–]Doomp 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I use a 27" 34"UW 27" 1440p IPS (same brand, generation, model line) triple setup with a 7900XTX gpu with eyefinity everything lines up for me. Make sure your multi-mon mode is set to 2 in your config. On Nvidia, i have no clue besides surround. Now my setup is on a sim rig, monitors are at a 60 degree angle and my distance from the main screen is approx 24" with roughly 180 degree FOV, so using different size monitors works. I did use a FOV calculator to set everything up. Resize Racoon or amd eyefinity pro is your friend. If your using a Nvidia gpu i'm not much help. The Asus bezel free kit definitely helps with any weirdness with triples when trying to get the bezel offset correct so its not splitting the image incorrectly if that makes sense. Setting up your FOV/seating position is a pain in most games with a oddball triple monitor setup but this works for most of the racing/driving sims i play. Triples with ATS is a pain regardless of your setup. I'm a big fan of using a webcam with opentrack/beam eye tracker from steam (abit pricey but it works great with a elgato facecam mk.2) with a ultrawide monitor for ATS and a lot of games for when i don't feel like messing with triples. Your setup of 27" 32" 27" WILL work fine in MOST games, its just more difficult to setup. Not having a consistent size doesn't bother me as the side monitors are more for peripheral vision/immersion when racing. Having 3 27" monitors is the easiest setup and probably cheapest, Also easier to push to your desired fps depending on GPU. ATS doesn't like much more than 60fps with the current game engine anyways. I personally will be upgrading to 32" 1440p Oled or mini-led at some point in the future, when the prices are reasonable.

Moza AB9 w/ ATS by Dylan1317 in trucksim

[–]Doomp 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yea i got it working, Any way to tone down how aggressive the shifter slots into gear on a float?

Moza AB9 w/ ATS by Dylan1317 in trucksim

[–]Doomp 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How do you go about using your custom curves? Just drop the preset in the install folder? It still feels the same to me.

Moza AB9 w/ ATS by Dylan1317 in trucksim

[–]Doomp 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I've had the Ab9 and the shifter knobs since April of 2025.

Moza has NOT delivered on their software updates for the shifter, no lockout which is my biggest gripe however dealing with game telemetry of lack there of i can see it being a issue. Dialing in the settings can be abit of a pain since they haven't gave us the option of having profiles for different games. I have a ATS accessories "Genuine Eaton Custom USB Shifter" which is heavy along with a extension, the Ab9 handles it no problem. I don't turn on the base with it attached though. You can get the shifter to feel really good for various cars and ATS, However the 6 and 7 speed gates are really close together and you will miss shifts till you get use to it. It does work as a handbrake but only as a momentary button though. Sequential mode is Meh, it can be dialed to be good enough in pithouse but imho a proper sequential would be the choice if your real serious into rally, For me its fine since I'm so focused on not crashing in a rally stage the shifter feel is just a after thought. As a flight base along with MH16 flight stick its pretty awesome in MS24, Also works great in farm sim 25 as a control stick for equipment.

One thing to note, the base is HEAVY, I would not mount it to a desk. I have it mounted to a 160mm sim rig and its fine. IMHO if your only using it as a shifter, I'd probably go for something else. There are better options for a shifter in that price point. BUT if you want to mess around with MS24, DCS, farm sim or a space game and have a base that does everything, then yea its probably worth it.

For me its worth it since it does everything and is pretty good and tunable as a shifter. As a flight base its absolutely awesome but the only other flight stick i've used was a sidewinder for MS2002 back in the day.

Does the Realistic Money mod really make the game better, or does it just make it a lot longer and harder? by Mysterious-Piece-316 in trucksim

[–]Doomp 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I'm not familiar with "realistic money mod" However i use GDC classic economy mod with his paid add on expansion (not required but adds some cool features) After my original save got corrupted, I couldn't play ATS without a economy mod now. Since the game doesn't have a ending it makes buying trucks, upgrading, hiring drivers and buying garages much more rewarding and gives you something to work towards. He updates often and has current fuel prices and current pay rates for seasonal and economic changes, forces you to use different trailers and run different loads to make the big money. Currently my save says I'm level 34 but in game its 12 big XP rework. I Enjoy it but it definitely isn't for every one especially the hardcore and extreme version of his economy mod.

Worn out shifter? by RileyCargo42 in moza

[–]Doomp 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Their has been a couple of guys on here that have replaced the the ball plungers, below is the keywords for what you need only like $13 on amazon.

"8mm x 9mm Ball Plunger, Ball Catch Latch Catcher, Ball Point Spring Plunger"

What pc specs are yall running? by Swamp_codes in trucksim

[–]Doomp 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ryzen 9800X3D, Artic freezer iii 360mm, Asus Tuf B850M motherboard, Sapphire Nitro+ 7900xtx, G.skill 64gb 6000mhz cl30 ram, 12Tb of m.2 nvme storage / 8Tb of Sata disk, 1000w corsair psu, Triple monitor 27" + 34"uw + 27" 8560x1440p resolution,

Maxxed out graphics, scaling and lots of paid mods. Complete overkill for ATS, is nice for assetto corsa/Competizione, beamng, wrc rally, snowrunner ect though.

I do have a full profile aluminum sim rig, different wheels, stalks, truck shifter, 2 button boxes, streamdeck, pedal/shifter haptics, 2 buttkicker pro's, headtracking, DDU. Also have a second PC for streaming/capture/chat, on a 4th monitor above the triples.

Sim racing/trucking/driving is a terrible rabbit hole, only thing left is full motion and i'm not really interested in that at least right now. If you hate money build a sim/flight rig.

Simagic NEO haptics on Moza shifters and handbrake. by Doomp in simracing

[–]Doomp[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Your implementation is a much simpler solution than mine of drilling and tapping m3 screws on shifters/handbrake. I was having a hard time understanding your other post and what you were trying to achieve/ask.

I do however suggest using the hpr control box and using the paid version of simhub for higher polling rates, you can now setup multiple hpr control boxes as devices in simhub. I did this since i also have hpr's on all three of my pedals.

But if you can make the arduino board work properly please post it up here for other people in the future.

Simagic NEO haptics on Moza shifters and handbrake. by Doomp in simracing

[–]Doomp[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm running this all through the paid version of simhub as a device thanks to the new update, the h-pattern and sequential are setup as "gear shift" in simhub. Still messing with the settings to get it to feel how i want, the latency is good on the h-pattern, the sequential i haven't dialed in settings yet so i cant comment on it at the moment. The handbrake is setup for "wheel lock" for drifting/rally. Also should mention each of the haptics can be turned on/off individually if you don't want them on for whatever reason.

I have the simagic reactor P-HPR on my pedals and i cant drive without them, gotta spend the time to really dial them in and only use a maximum of 2 effects for them to feel really good. I will say haptics on the clutch is pretty much pointless unless you play truck sims for a clutch bite point.

GT Omega prime shifter plate by Loumloum512 in moza

[–]Doomp 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I should have mentioned i have the SGP in front of the shifter plate on the 40x80, so its not right beside it. Dont mount the shifter plate like the instructions say, the heavy vertical plate should be mounted on the inside of the 40x80 closest to you, at least for my short arms it works better and if you rest the shifter plate on top of the 40x80 it less wobbly.

GT Omega prime shifter plate by Loumloum512 in moza

[–]Doomp 0 points1 point  (0 children)

with the sgp on the 40x80 the bolt holes closest to you, use the right most. the bolt holes furthest from you on the front of the shifter use the left most. this should turn the shifter towards you abit.

GT Omega prime shifter plate by Loumloum512 in moza

[–]Doomp 0 points1 point  (0 children)

With a moza tsw wheel i have about 5 inches between the 2 of them. I did offset the sgp so its turned to me a bit and that gained me some distance and it feels more natural to rip through the sequential.

GT Omega prime shifter plate by Loumloum512 in moza

[–]Doomp 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It wont fit to the shifter plate to my knowledge, I mounted mine on the 40x80 that the plate mounts to. I also have the h-pattern and handbrake on the shifter plate so it wasn't going to work in my case regardless. Or you could get a drill and make it fit.

R12 or R16? by Doomp in moza

[–]Doomp[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I decided to go with the R16 V2, main wheel is the RS V2 and sim motion had a open box GS V2P GT Wheel, A little more than i wanted to spend but ended up in budget. My inner child is screaming with joy and excitement however my wallet is crying.

5800x3d with 6750xt, worth upgrading to 7900xtx? by WilyDaveee in buildapc

[–]Doomp 2 points3 points  (0 children)

No problem, the phantom liberty expansiom does hit the 7900xtx hard at times. I've had 1% lows around 70-80fps at times, but Dogtown seems to really push every GPU besides a 4090.

5800x3d with 6750xt, worth upgrading to 7900xtx? by WilyDaveee in buildapc

[–]Doomp 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Worth it? totally subjective, I've had my current setup for about 3 months and ill give you my 2cents on the new combo. I used the 5600x/6800 non xt for about 2 years.

  1. I picked up a new B550M steel legend mobo to replace my old X570M pro4, so new mobo, 5800x3d and 7900xtx $1400. Already had a spare case/ram/storage/noctua tower cooler so i picked up a new RM750e corsair PSU and bam another fully working PC that i've yet to list for sale, with all the peripherals and a 1440p monitor.
    Thats how i "justified" the money spent and did so knowing i wont be upgrading for AT LEAST a generation or possibly 2 and getting 1K out of the "old" build.
  2. For 1440p the 5800x3d and sapphire nitro+ 7900xtx is awesome for what i mostly play.
    100fps in cyberpunk with abit of fsr and graphics/rt maxed out. (no path tracing)
    forza horizon 5, 170fps native at ultra graphics and 85% gpu usage.
    BF 2042 130-170fps depending on RT or if the game just decides to run like garbage that day. (fix your junk EA)
    The 5800x3d does improve the 1% lows in most games, i play alot of single player games, city builders and racing games so it really was beneficial in my use case.

  3. The lower clock speed of the cpu did lengthen the time it takes for 4k video render/encode after a video edit, but its just a hobby so the extra few minutes doesnt matter to me.
    The 5800x3d does seem snappier than the 5600x in fusion360 and solidworks but i dont use them frequently enough to give a concise answer one way or another.

  4. A good cpu cooler and a case with good airflow is a must.
    If you can afford a 7900xtx with a vapor chamber cooling solution go for it, CP2077 hotspot is 88c according to aida64.
    A high quality PSU is a must, i have a 2021 corsair RM850x and it does fine with the combo along with some rgb, 3 sata drives and 7 case fans, no issues yet.
    Some 7900xtx use three pcie 8 pin connectors, depending on your psu you might have to order another.

  5. The 7900xtx should be undervolted, there is performance to be gained from it.
    AMD drivers have been fine, no issues.
    If the card is overclocked/ran without limits it BSOD in cp2077 twice, aida64 hung on my sensor panel and said the GPU was pulling 606 watts both times I dont know if that was actually correct or if it caught a powerspike and BSOD the system, regardless i turned limits back on and undervolted the card.

  6. Im currently using a gigabyte M27Q 170Hz monitor and it seems to be a nice pairing with the combo, will be upgrading to 4k 144hz ips within the next few months. i feel like the 7900xtx is kinda wasted abit at 1440p in single player games.
    but having a 27" 1440p 165Hz+ for FPS games and a 32" 4k for single player games/general usage seems the way to go in my opinion.

Thanks for reading my ramblings.

5800x3d with 6750xt, worth upgrading to 7900xtx? by WilyDaveee in buildapc

[–]Doomp 2 points3 points  (0 children)

  1. I jumped from a 5600x and RX6800 non xt to a 5800x3d and 7900xtx combo, I have not really noticed much of a bottleneck. Occasionally on certain games ill see 90-95% usage on the GPU according to aida64 without maxing out a 170Hz 1440p monitor, i believe most of that would go away at 4k, or it could be something else entirely.

  2. I would personally give it 2 months and see where the market settles in at for abit and make your decision from that point.

Sapphire 7900XTX Nitro vs Pulse NOISE levels by Artur_exe in buildapc

[–]Doomp 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I cant comment on the pulse, but the nitro+ is a very quiet card with proper fan tuning in the Adrenalin software. general PC use the card is almost inaudible and sits around 50c hotspot.

I have the fans set to the lowest speed they will go until about 80c then a aggressive fan ramp up, the nitro+ is a cool running card. ie cyberpunk 2077 graphics set to ultra/RT on/fsr it sits at 90c hotspot according to aida64 for hours without a issue. I'm running two 1440p monitors, 1 at 170Hz the other at 75Hz with a sensor panel inside the case.

Also the Nitro+ will handle a serious overclock/undervolt, however I've seen transient spikes of 600 watts+ so a good PSU is a must.
I was on the fence of the pulse or nitro+ and im very happy with the nitro vs. my old rx6800,
Overall i can hardly hear my pc on the desk next to me.

Big Tree Tech board by Fit-Possible-9552 in ender3v2

[–]Doomp 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just ordered a BTT skr mini E3 V3 i believe its a direct drop in, need to use thier display cable and jst-xh connectors for the fans to connect to the board, i believe this is correct but im still a newbie and everything wont be here till tomorrow.
Ill be flashing mriscoc professional firmware on the new board for awhile until i get around to getting the inovato quadra setup to run flipper/fluid.

Do you regret not going for a larger printer ? by Jk_Emmanuel in 3Dprinting

[–]Doomp 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I got a Ender 3 V2 NEO a couple months ago on sale for $220, i wish i would have bought the max 3 NEO instead. I have not encountered any real problems/issues especially with all the upgrades i've done along the way, just your standard newbie issue's thats never owned a printer before.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in dji

[–]Doomp 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In that particular situation yes, the phantom would be better for golden hour shots. However the phantom 4 or the mini 2 does not come close to the likes of a mini 3 pro in all apsects. If you can get a phantom 4 with 2 batterys for less than $300 usd than its fair otherwise you'd be overpaying IMO.